The contactors can be ordered with 24V AC coil but the code might have a K J?
Notwithstanding that if no 240V tap I'd connect 240V mains to the transformer 415V primary (fingers out!) and measure the transformer output volts. You may not need another transformer.
Contactor data sheet
Some coil specifications page 6 to give you some idea of operating and holding currents.
I'm not sure what the issue is with coil current, it's relatively low (note specs are in VA not amps)
To add a few points
The DC supply you linked to is massively overrated for what you need to drive a relay (low milliamps for SS, higher mA for inductive (coiled) relay which would also need a diode to prevent reverse emf spike) not to mention that if you lost power to the supply (as opposed to...
Not quite on topic but there can't be many of these (or anyone with a round pin 3 pin plug still in use - bearing in mind that if you want to force a 2 pin it's shuttered so pencil at the ready).
Saw this on Irish Consumer site (CPCC.ie) HERE
Not sure about the rest of the UK but worth checking if you have one.
Fluke Europe BV recalls to repair BEHA-AMPROBE AM 500 and AM 510 multimeters
APRIL 6, 2023
Fluke Europe BV is carrying out a recall to repair on BEHA-AMPROBE AM 500 and AM 510...
Not really (much of a help)
It's unlikely the doorbell is involved, someone has taken a feed for the doorbell from the lighting. (Ideally there should be a fused unit feeding the bell transformer). I can't see why anyone would or should ever take a second feed to the doorbell.
Same reply as...
The process of measuring the voltage changes it because any stray coupling is very high impedance so your measurements are probably meaningless anyway.
Every circuit should be isolatable with one breaker only. If you can't isolate the lights with only one breaker it needs sorting out before you start thinking about fitting a dimmer.
It sounds like someone has modified the wiring and bridged the out of the two breakers or circuits, it could be...
Having first ensured that the leg spacing on the new one is correct...
If you have a solder sucker the trick is to support the board very firmly copper side up, and suck the solder off
If you don't have a solder sucker or braid to absorb the solder another method is to cut the old switch off...
Higher probability that the new battery is at fault, voltage measurements as said are very deceptive on that type of battery, buy a good one and do a very quick short circuit dab current test on a suitable current range (100mA or 200mA) (- an analogue meter is better for this), then do the same...
If the PIRs are powered up but not triggered and the lights are off the PIRs will consume some power whether or not it's dark so if your mother (or you) are worried about the 24/365 overhead of powering the PIRs (which actually isn't quite as trivial as you might assume), feed them from a smart...
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