13A Bosch Oven

[clicon357]

Bosch oven, seemingly 13A supply according to the Bosch site so can plug straight into the ring main? Never had a built in oven like this before always the old fashioned free standing type that's wired into it's own dedicated circuit with a cooker connection unit. Is it better for this to have it's own supply? Thanks.Classixx Built-in single 3D hot air oven black

 

[trev]

13Ax230V=2.9KW
Stick it on it's own radial mate. I know that diversity can and should be applied but I'm lazy today!

 

[GaryM]

BS7671 recommends that cooking appliances above 2kW are to be connected to a dedicated radial circuit to aid complacence with 433.1.103

 

[Dan23584]

I would put it on its own 20A radial.

 

[Engineer54]

13Ax230V=2.9KW
Stick it on it's own radial mate. I know that diversity can and should be applied but I'm lazy today!

Well, ....you can knock off at least a KW straight away if there is a grilling element in the oven, as you won't be able to combine that element with the oven element(s)!! Then take diversity into account!!! I doubt if there would be much of a problem running this small load oven on a ring circuit. Nothing stopping you wiring on a dedicated Radial either....

 

[olsonn]

Only ever seen one of these once before.. The installer had wired the hob on its own circuit and had wired it into a 45amp cooker switch. They then plugged the oven into the cooker socket

 

[clicon357]

OK then I'm heading for a separate radial for the single Bosch oven. Out of interest the hob is on a radial already but the other side of the kitchen with it's own cooker connection unit so there's no chance of using that radial to switch bothe the hob and oven - too far from each other. My question is this:

The kitchen ring / sockets run horizontally just above the worktop. The sockets are pretty close together so I am wiring horizontally between them in 2.5 T&E in (buried) 20mm plastic conduit. The two ends of the ring go vertically up from the sockets at the end of the ring into the loft BUT inboard of the last sockets in the internal corners of the room. Now then I want to put a DP switch for the single oven on the SAME horizontal line as the ring sockets. This will mean the oven radial CROSSING the ring 2.5mm at right angles - hope that make sense! Thinking if I put the DP switch for the oven on a deep (47mm) single metal box then I could run the 2.5mm for the ring thru the back of the 47mm box. I do hope this makes sense though appreciate a couple of reads! If not clear I'll sketch up and post that. Thanks!

 

[telectrix]

i would prefer to see the RFC cable/s run behind the oven knockout box.

 

[dingledong]

ther's loads of these out there . itd because they are fan assisted and this blows the heat around so it cooks evenly . i have fitted them into ring curcuits and never had aproblem with trippinf/ overloading at all . most people will not want you to run a seperate circuit if your replacing like for like and there is already a socket there .thats fed from the ring

 

[clicon357]

Well the oven turned up today. Despite the Bosch site simply saying "13A" on the back of the actual oven it's written 2.35KW". Thought the site would have been more specific than 13A and also that the 2.35KW would have been written properly 2.35kW - so much for Germanic engineering proficiency etc! Me being picky I know but you have to have standards!

The Bosch online "Technical Specs" says "Current 13A". So 2.35kW at 230V and we get (only) 10.2A. Even with voltage tolerances (230V +10%, -6%?) I can only get as high as 10.8A.

Its suggestive to me that by this "13A" that its ok to plug straight in to a socket BUT reading the instructions and they say "Mains connection lead HO5 W-F or higher" then "An all pole isolating switch with a contact gap measuring at least 3mm must be available during installation".

No problems on the cable but the switch and this "all pole" business? Obviously the 20A DP switches are double pole but are the cooker type switches "all pole"?

Best option I assume would be a dedicated radial (thus complying with the "over 2kW" reg) with a 16A breaker in the board - not a current option until I change the board followed by a cooker switch above the worktop. Then an unswitched socket and 13A plug top below the worktop. Was thinking cooker connection plate or flex outlet here instead of the plug top............?

With the lack of spare way in the CU I'm thinking DP switch off the ring to an unswitched single socket outlet then plug top with a 13A fuse in.

Anyone see that as a problem?

Cheers

 

[polo1]

Hi
Assuming acceptable loading elsewhere on the ring, you should have absolutely no problem just plugging this appliance into the ring. "All pole" simply means double pole switching in this scenario.

I honestly would not be looking at a dedicated radial unless the cust wanted me to future-proof the install.
Regards.

 

[Engineer54]

Well the oven turned up today. Despite the Bosch site simply saying "13A" on the back of the actual oven it's written 2.35KW". Thought the site would have been more specific than 13A and also that the 2.35KW would have been written properly 2.35kW - so much for Germanic engineering proficiency etc! Me being picky I know but you have to have standards!

The Bosch online "Technical Specs" says "Current 13A". So 2.35kW at 230V and we get (only) 10.2A. Even with voltage tolerances (230V +10%, -6%?) I can only get as high as 10.8A.

Its suggestive to me that by this "13A" that its ok to plug straight in to a socket BUT reading the instructions and they say "Mains connection lead HO5 W-F or higher" then "An all pole isolating switch with a contact gap measuring at least 3mm must be available during installation".

No problems on the cable but the switch and this "all pole" business? Obviously the 20A DP switches are double pole but are the cooker type switches "all pole"?

Best option I assume would be a dedicated radial (thus complying with the "over 2kW" reg) with a 16A breaker in the board - not a current option until I change the board followed by a cooker switch above the worktop. Then an unswitched socket and 13A plug top below the worktop. Was thinking cooker connection plate or flex outlet here instead of the plug top............?

With the lack of spare way in the CU I'm thinking DP switch off the ring to an unswitched single socket outlet then plug top with a 13A fuse in.

Anyone see that as a problem?

Cheers

Nothing!!! .....I doubt if you will even see 10.2A, and if you do, once upto the setting temperature, it'll be intermittent loading via the thermostat

 

[clicon357]

Thanks all!

Of course this may mean she attempts Xmas dinner now!