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Mrs Ogg

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Hello. I have a new oven. I understand completely that I need to get it installed by an electrician and will definitely do so but for my own curiosity I would appreciate some help understanding electrical circuits and what I need. Please forgive if I don't use the right terminology here!

My old oven, with a 13amp moulded fused plug, was plugged into a dedicated socket with a separate oven red switch and light. By dedicated I mean that it looks as though its circuit is to its own 32amp fuse in the fuse box.

My new oven needs to be 16amp (3.2kw output). I understand that I shouldn't use the 13amp fuse from the plug. But could I change the fuse in the plug to 16amp and that be safe? That is to say, use the same cable and change the plug fuse and it be safe because it's going to a 32amp fuse on the circuit board?

I have read a lot about 13amp v 16 amp sockets, but can't find out what the socket amperage is. How do you know? I do know the fuse for the oven on the circuit board is 32amp. Logically, I can't see why all this needs is a change of fuse in the plug socket and an electrician to wire it I to the back of the oven.

And to reassure you again, I have no intention of wiring it myself, I just want to understand whether the 16/32 amp factor is all I need to understand or if the plug socket is something that I need to take account of.

Many thanks all!
 
From the distribution board (fuse box)
a circuit breaker or fuse at 32A will limit the maximum current (A) that can be carried down the cable to a big red cooker switch.

from the cooker switch a cable, normally the same size is taken to the back of the oven cupboard.

in your case, this has been connected to a 3 pin socket (13A) and the oven is plugged in to that.

it is not possible to buy a fuse that is over 13A for that type of plug (intentionally by design)

what needs to be done is to change the socket outlet to a cooker connection point. This looks like a flat plate with a hole for a cable to enter.
inside are heavy duty connections for the cable that goes from the wall plate to the oven.

assuming that the cables installed are the correct size for the new oven (highly unlikely that they are not) a decent spark should be in and out well within the hour.
they will also spot a dodgy DIY work of art if that was the case and be able to advise or repair with little extra cost.

edit,
although the circuit is being fed from a 32A breaker, the oven is what is called a fixed load. (It’s maximum current usage is 16A for example) therefore the cables feeding it only need to be rated to 16A even though the breaker is 32A.
the principal is that the oven will never draw 20A for example and overload the cable.
in the case of a fault like a short circuit, the current will instantly jump to several hundred Amps and trip the breaker so all is good.
 
Last edited:
From the distribution board (fuse box)
a circuit breaker or fuse at 32A will limit the maximum current (A) that can be carried down the cable to a big red cooker switch.

from the cooker switch a cable, normally the same size is taken to the back of the oven cupboard.

in your case, this has been connected to a 3 pin socket (13A) and the oven is plugged in to that.

it is not possible to buy a fuse that is over 13A for that type of plug (intentionally by design)

what needs to be done is to change the socket outlet to a cooker connection point. This looks like a flat plate with a hole for a cable to enter.
inside are heavy duty connections for the cable that goes from the wall plate to the oven.

assuming that the cables installed are the correct size for the new oven (highly unlikely that they are not) a decent spark should be in and out well within the hour.
they will also spot a dodgy DIY work of art if that was the case and be able to advise or repair with little extra cost.

edit,
although the circuit is being fed from a 32A breaker, the oven is what is called a fixed load. (It’s maximum current usage is 16A for example) therefore the cables feeding it only need to be rated to 16A even though the breaker is 32A.
the principal is that the oven will never draw 20A for example and overload the cable.
in the case of a fault like a short circuit, the current will instantly jump to several hundred Amps and trip the breaker so all is good.
Thanks so much, James! This has been doing my head in all day and you've explained it so clearly. Really appreciate you taking the time.

Mrs Ogg
 
From the distribution board (fuse box)
a circuit breaker or fuse at 32A will limit the maximum current (A) that can be carried down the cable to a big red cooker switch.

from the cooker switch a cable, normally the same size is taken to the back of the oven cupboard.

in your case, this has been connected to a 3 pin socket (13A) and the oven is plugged in to that.

it is not possible to buy a fuse that is over 13A for that type of plug (intentionally by design)

what needs to be done is to change the socket outlet to a cooker connection point. This looks like a flat plate with a hole for a cable to enter.
inside are heavy duty connections for the cable that goes from the wall plate to the oven.

assuming that the cables installed are the correct size for the new oven (highly unlikely that they are not) a decent spark should be in and out well within the hour.
they will also spot a dodgy DIY work of art if that was the case and be able to advise or repair with little extra cost.

edit,
although the circuit is being fed from a 32A breaker, the oven is what is called a fixed load. (It’s maximum current usage is 16A for example) therefore the cables feeding it only need to be rated to 16A even though the breaker is 32A.
the principal is that the oven will never draw 20A for example and overload the cable.
in the case of a fault like a short circuit, the current will instantly jump to several hundred Amps and trip the breaker so all is good.
Just for the electricians reading this, I am aware that some of the terms and descriptions are not technically correct however it has been written in a manner that can be understood by a home owner instead of an electrician.

@Mrs Ogg
don’t be alarmed, it is correct as far as it can be without turning it in to a highly technical article that would baffle a trainee electrician let alone a home owner.
 
Just for the electricians reading this, I am aware that some of the terms and descriptions are not technically correct however it has been written in a manner that can be understood by a home owner instead of an electrician.

@Mrs Ogg
don’t be alarmed, it is correct as far as it can be without turning it in to a highly technical article that would baffle a trainee electrician let alone a home owner.
Hi, I know this post is a year old, i have the same issue. I have the cooker connection point, but how do I connect the the two set of wires, one set from the main 32amp & one set from the oven.
From the distribution board (fuse box)
a circuit breaker or fuse at 32A will limit the maximum current (A) that can be carried down the cable to a big red cooker switch.

from the cooker switch a cable, normally the same size is taken to the back of the oven cupboard.

in your case, this has been connected to a 3 pin socket (13A) and the oven is plugged in to that.

it is not possible to buy a fuse that is over 13A for that type of plug (intentionally by design)

what needs to be done is to change the socket outlet to a cooker connection point. This looks like a flat plate with a hole for a cable to enter.
inside are heavy duty connections for the cable that goes from the wall plate to the oven.

assuming that the cables installed are the correct size for the new oven (highly unlikely that they are not) a decent spark should be in and out well within the hour.
they will also spot a dodgy DIY work of art if that was the case and be able to advise or repair with little extra cost.

edit,
although the circuit is being fed from a 32A breaker, the oven is what is called a fixed load. (It’s maximum current usage is 16A for example) therefore the cables feeding it only need to be rated to 16A even though the breaker is 32A.
the principal is that the oven will never draw 20A for example and overload the cable.
in the case of a fault like a short circuit, the current will instantly jump to several hundred Amps and trip the breaker so all is good.
Hi, I know this post is a year old, but I have the same issue, i have the cooker connection unit, but how do you wire it together. I have the cable for the main circuit but also the cable from the oven. There're only one set of connections? So how would you connect the two together? Thank you for any advice in advance.
 
i have the cooker connection unit, but how do you wire it together. I have the cable for the main circuit but also the cable from the oven. There're only one set of connections? So how would you connect the two together? Thank you for any advice in advance.
If the oven is fitted with a cable, that's the one cable to use.
If the cooker connection on the wall is similar to the example below, the old cable that's coming out of it needs to be removed, and the new cooker cable connected to it.
The power must be off, and an electrician doing this would use a dead tester first to make sure nothing is live!

If I've misunderstood the situation, a photo of what you have would be helpful

 
If the oven is fitted with a cable, that's the one cable to use.
If the cooker connection on the wall is similar to the example below, the old cable that's coming out of it needs to be removed, and the new cooker cable connected to it.
The power must be off, and an electrician doing this would use a dead tester first to make sure nothing is live!

If I've misunderstood the situation, a photo of what you have would be helpful

Thank you for that I understand it all, I've realised I have the wrong cooker connection plate, once I've got the correct one, I shall arrange for a electrician.
 

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