Discuss 2.9Kw oven on 13A kitchen ring in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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M

mdgibbs32

Hi Guys
Im dubious about something maybe you can put my mind at rest.
Clients oven has died and hes bought a replacment 2.9Kw oven (oven grill combo unit so can have one or the other on, not both).
Old oven was connected via 13A plug socket and client wants to do the same. I know the maths says its technically OK (ohms law etc) but im dubious and would much rather fit a 6mm cooker circuit.
Obviously i doubt client is keen on this as the cost goes up dramatically.
Anyone else have same gut feeling or am i being paranoid again.
Cheers
 
Hi T&E
thats my problem...its a case of WHAT MANUAL if you know what i mean.
Think im going for better safe than sorry and insist on decicated cooker circuit. If he isnt happy and can find another spark whos more willing to take the risk so be it
 
Allowing for diversity on the cooker a 13a plug is more than good enough, but you could put it to the customer that if they ever upgraded you would have to come back again and do it, so long term it could save them money
 
Hi T&E
thats my problem...its a case of WHAT MANUAL if you know what i mean.
Think im going for better safe than sorry and insist on decicated cooker circuit. If he isnt happy and can find another spark whos more willing to take the risk so be it

If its a new cooker can't you google it to find the instructions? If in doubt check what they say.
 
IMO, if the cooker was meant to be plugged into a RFC it would have been supplied with a cord and plug fitted. if it's got terminals for cable connection, then it should be hard wired to a dedicated circuit.
 
ideally it should be on its own circut suggest to customer if the cookers on and afew appliances ie kettle etc could have problems overloading ring if it were my house i would have cooker on its own circut
 
change the 13A socket into a cooker outlet and feed it from existing ring.
32A ring should cope with 3kw load no problem.
 
Hi Guys
Clients oven has died and hes bought a replacement 2.9Kw oven (oven grill combo unit so can have one or the other on, not both).
Cheers

Well you have almost answered your own question here, like most ovens you can't have both the grill and the oven working at the same time!! Adding to that, when either of these two facilities are working they will be controlled via a thermostat, so the loading isn't going to be continuous either for long periods of time. So in essence your never going to see that 2.9 KW, or anything like it!!! I'd be inclined to connect it to the ring, i can't really see a problem with it myself!! lol!!!
 
i would, however, be inclined to connect it via a FCU. also depends on whatever else is on that RFC. toaster, kettle, micro, dishwasher, and everything else that today's modern woman can't do without in a kitchen.
 
Exactly what engineer54 states. More & more ovens come with a plug these days. If hard wiring into f.c.u. i used to use 2.5 heat resistant flex, but now i use 1.5 as most ovens come with this size flex, when it is attached.
 
A word of caution on these assumptions, went to a house that just had a new kitchen fitted and oven was put on the ring. Well the ring was for the whole downstairs and the CU was also in the kitchen. His problem was he burnt out one leg of the ring. When i measured the ring loads it was clear most of the current was going down one leg when he put oven, kettle and washer on.
I have proposed to split the downstairs ring and create two rings, one for the kitchen and one for the rest of the downstairs. This will fix the in-balance.
 

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