2007 range rover headlight conundrum

[confused I am]

hi

I have rigged up DRL's (leds) into my headlight assembly , by splicing in this relay

12V LED Daytime Running Light DRL Relay Harness Automatic On/Off Switch Control | eBay

the feed was spliced into the indicator circuit which was showing 12.8v at ign on , and 13.6v when engine running , trigger wire went to dipped headlight wire and earth to common ground ,lights worked well for two weeks , then stopped working.

on investigation I have discovered that the supply voltage to the indicators is now showing about 1.8v at ign on position and about 2v when engine running , indicators still working okay .

any ideas what could have happened or how this could be possible


thanks in advance

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Sounds like the relay has been overloaded by the current from the dipped headlights.
With relays, the trigger side is usually only rated at very low amps, much less than would be found in the feeds to headlights.

 

[confused I am]

thanks for your thoughts,

but this gizmo/relay is designed to work in that way ie the trigger wire spliced into the dipped beam or sidelight wire.(this cuts the brightness of the leds by 30 or 40% when headlights or sidelights are on)

I have spliced the supply into the indicator wire as it was showing an ignition live feed and satisfied the other condition of the gizmo/relay by showing over 13v when engine was running , but after 2 weeks of use this voltage is now showing only 1.8v supply feed from the car system and 2v with engine running , the gizmo/drl relay needs over 13v to work so isn't working anymore when spliced into the indicator wiring ,(I have got around this by splicing into another ign live supply in the headlight)

my real concern is the change in the cars system voltage supply to indicators only showing 1.8v and 2v when previously just under 13v and more than 13v when engine running. I measure this with a multimeter at the bare wire splice points

 

[PEG]

Hi dude,why have you spliced into the indicator circuit? This will not provide a live feed for your switching,and the voltage you have measured may not be true,your vehicle has electronic monitoring of the lighting system,and the splicing and substituting of components,can upset the ECU.

Lots of folks find this out when connecting towbar electrics the old fashioned way...

You can "long-lead" your feeds,using lengths of cable,from guaranteed sources,and if operation is successful,make these short,neat and permanent.

I personally don't favour overly bright front lights,on a Range Rover,as they distract me,as i tow them where they were heading,with my Patrol...irate:

 

[davesparks]

Rangerovers are well known for electronic problems, the last thing you really want to be doing is upsetting the already delicate electronics.

 

[confused I am]

guys the indicator circuit was and should be ignition live source of power (why its changed is the issue I'm trying to solve), the leds only pull 16 watts , re canbus errors there are none , the power draw causes no warning lights on the dash at all.

as someone above states I may be best going direct to the battery for the feed but was looking to avoid the minimal battery drawdown when the car wasn't running.

 

[PEG]

Hi fella, just where on your "indicator circuit",have you took the feed from? The wiring diagram for the kit you have,does not show connection to this,and it will only matter,depending on where on that circuit you have tapped.

You may not have any codes/warning lights,this does not mean it is correct.

As for your change in voltage,this will very much be aligned with where you placed your probes...and if your meter is suitable.

I can get wildly varying voltages,when i test my 7 year old,whilst rubbing his hair with a balloon :smile5:

 

[confused I am]

Hi PEG , I took the feed from the wire that supplies the headlight plug/socket and was showing 12.6v with ignition switched on and 13.6 with engine running. I spliced into the wire directly before it enters the plug, remember this all worked okay for two weeks , but now doesn't work when spliced into these wires ,(I have it working but have had to splice into another ign live at the headlight plug) and the voltage at the original point(measured at splice point and neg of battery) now shows as mentioned above 1.8 and 2v, what has changed to cause the cars system to drop from 12.6v and 13.6v ,

that is my concern

I used this diagram for guidance

Range Rover L322 2006 on Headlight Connectors (Pair)

but the 2006 model is slightly different to the 2007

 

[PEG]

Hi fella,i think i see the problem...you searched for an ignition live feed using your meter,and presumably found a wire which was live,on switching the ignition on.

This does not mean it is a true feed,and suitable for your switching. Those multi-plugs have a myriad of function connections,including daft things like "AFS",which moves the headlights around...for no good reason...

You would be better getting a wiring diagram for your vehicle,and identifying a suitable ignition live feed,bearing in mind that any ignition live feeds to the units,will be for specific functions,and may sense additional loads as a fault.

Also,any tappings,(do not use scotch-loks) will require proper sealing,as those piddly cables can track moisture 5 meters,right into an ecu,and you could do without that!