Discuss 25mm galv conduit deta brand from tlc keeps bending with a flat back and wrinkles ? in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Ryan Le Sueur

Ryan2701
Messages
6
Location
Braintree
Iv used this bender for allot of 20mm galv jobs and its worked fine. Im currently doing a job that involves 25mm galv conduit so iv changed the former and steppes up the roller and arm into the appropriate holes. Every bend i do the conduit keeps showing small wrinkles at the start of the bend and a flatness where it bends round the former. Can anyone help out ?
 

PEG

Respected Member
Messages
4,873
Location
Manchester
Hi, a piece of another brand of 25mm would be a good purchase,and see if the problem replicates. Any talk of a bad batch of tubing (which is not unheard of) will have to be delivered in conjunction with a correct form,done with the same machine.
 

sam400

Regular EF Member
Messages
249
Location
sussex
Deta conduit is dreadful! There quality control must be non existent. We were having a nightmare installing some tube recently couldn’t get a thread on it for love or money when I measured it was at least 21mm
Had about 10 lengths like it.
 

Tes369

Regular EF Member
Messages
245
Location
Cumbria
Hello

A more constructive post here brace yourselves. The conduit brand you are using is rubbish this is quite a common thing to happen. Probably down to the thickness of the metal and quality of the steel involved.

A tip to those who have done very little galv conduit and trainees.

*Mark where your first saddle will go on the conduit. When it is in the jaws of the bender that's where your bender jaws should sit when threading. So that when you put your saddle on the conduit it covers the marks left by the bender jaws.

*The writing on the conduit should always be hidden at the back against the wall when installing conduit.

* I like to measure from the back of the bend and I never mark the conduit bender.

* If you wish to make a box spanner for getting inside Unistrut. Ask Mr Air Plumber to get his torch on a piece of 20mm galv conduit until it's nice and red then hammer onto a 10mm bolt head.

* Sharpie gets rid of Sharpie marks on any metal work especially galv conduit. scribble over the mark while it's still wet rub off with tissue the mark is gone.

Cheers
 
OP
R

Ryan Le Sueur

Ryan2701
Messages
6
Location
Braintree
Ok thanks everyone. I needed a little confirmation that it could be poor tube or my former. Im going to try a completely different bender order some new conduit from neweys. Hopefully i can tell u all that it was the tube !
Thanks again
 

SparkyChick

Making a banana smoothy for my fave gorilla
Staff member
Moderator
Messages
3,694
Location
South Wales
Hello

A more constructive post here brace yourselves. The conduit brand you are using is rubbish this is quite a common thing to happen. Probably down to the thickness of the metal and quality of the steel involved.

A tip to those who have done very little galv conduit and trainees.

*Mark where your first saddle will go on the conduit. When it is in the jaws of the bender that's where your bender jaws should sit when threading. So that when you put your saddle on the conduit it covers the marks left by the bender jaws.

*The writing on the conduit should always be hidden at the back against the wall when installing conduit.

* I like to measure from the back of the bend and I never mark the conduit bender.

* If you wish to make a box spanner for getting inside Unistrut. Ask Mr Air Plumber to get his torch on a piece of 20mm galv conduit until it's nice and red then hammer onto a 10mm bolt head.

* Sharpie gets rid of Sharpie marks on any metal work especially galv conduit. scribble over the mark while it's still wet rub off with tissue the mark is gone.

Cheers
Some great tips in there, thanks for taking the time to share :)

Much appreciated.
 

PEG

Respected Member
Messages
4,873
Location
Manchester
Yep,guilty of poking an engineering fun stick...but it is a well known and accepted method of achieving a uniform bend. It resists collapse and is,to a degree,"self adjusting".

Understanding the principles that are at work,whilst a bend is forming,can greatly assist in achieving good results,and can also enable trouble shooting failures.

You are stretching and compressing a metal. It is not happy being stretched,but it really resists being compressed. You are attempting a compromise,between the two,whilst maintaining it's original shape.

Easy...:)
 

ruston

Respected Member
Messages
5,052
Location
Northumberland
Yep,guilty of poking an engineering fun stick...but it is a well known and accepted method of achieving a uniform bend. It resists collapse and is,to a degree,"self adjusting".

Understanding the principles that are at work,whilst a bend is forming,can greatly assist in achieving good results,and can also enable trouble shooting failures.

You are stretching and compressing a metal. It is not happy being stretched,but it really resists being compressed. You are attempting a compromise,between the two,whilst maintaining it's original shape.

Easy...:)
Also an old trick for cutting Earthenware glazed pipes pre Sthil saw days.
 

PEG

Respected Member
Messages
4,873
Location
Manchester
Like it...an old fella showed me how to mark any pipe up for an angled branch cut,by transferring the angle to the perpendicular,dipping it in dirty water....just follow the dirty edge :) (also wise life advice)
 

Pete999

Forum Mentor
Messages
21,833
Location
Northampton
...I also hope you are plugging and packing with wet sand...;)
What Galv conduit on a proprietary bending machine?
I would normally dumb that suggestion, but it's been a while, a long time in fact since I bent tube in a proprietary bending machine, the suggestion is almost as bad as heating OVC conduit by heating it first, things cant have gotten that bad, have they?
 

Pete999

Forum Mentor
Messages
21,833
Location
Northampton
...I also hope you are plugging and packing with wet sand...;)
What Galv conduit on a proprietary bending machine?
I would normally dumb that suggestion, but it's been a while, a long time in fact since I bent tube in a proprietary bending machine, the suggestion is almost as bad as heating PVC conduit by heating it first, things cant have gotten that bad, have they? So I'll wait for comments.
 

PEG

Respected Member
Messages
4,873
Location
Manchester
What Galv conduit on a proprietary bending machine?
I would normally dumb that suggestion, but it's been a while, a long time in fact since I bent tube in a proprietary bending machine, the suggestion is almost as bad as heating PVC conduit by heating it first, things cant have gotten that bad, have they? So I'll wait for comments.
No probs my friend,post #13 explains everything:)

It was never a suggestion for a proprietary conduit bending method,but nevertheless,it would work. The obvious method would be to check the machine and material.

You can get some neat and accurate shaping,in PVC,by using variable temperature,pumped oil and sets...but you wouldn't do that,either ;)
 

Simonslimline

Electrician's Arms
Messages
2,149
Location
South West, Bath
All the tube my old company used on there jobs seemed to go flat at the back when bending. Thousands of bundles and hundreds of different vices, same results. Penny pinching Quantity surveyors always buying the cheapest crap available.
 
OP
R

Ryan Le Sueur

Ryan2701
Messages
6
Location
Braintree
Turns out the former that i was using was swapped over by accident on a previous job and the matching one has never been seen again.
I ended up hiring a bender for a few hours and bought some better galv to make sure i had no more problems. I did test the tlc galv and yes it still doesnt give the same rounded bends.
 

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