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Dave 85

Hi Lads
The kitchen firm I work for phoned earlier they swapped an oven over expecting to find a dedicated supply but only found a socket. They plugged it in for now but wanna know if that's ok to leave. Putting in a new feed will be a nightmare and I don't wanna get involved. My thinking is that the OSG said its ok to put a 15kw oven on a 32a MCB so surely 3.6kw (max load) on 13a fuse is acceptable if not ideal
 
Not really Wally .................well not in a court of law anyways....................we use diversity to select a cable and protection device that are suited for each other ...........so if you mess up the most catastrophic event would be it tripping out all the time ................

If you going to load a 13 amp BS 1363 plug top up with 15amps, yes it could work and most likely will work for years, but eventually it will start to deteriorate leading to perhaps dire situations.

No I still think I would be advising changing this
 
If it has any relevance it's a pyrolitic (self cleaning) oven. I don't know how these work

It works like this:

The oven has special linings, all the gunge comes off with high temperatures.
Very simply, when you select the pyrolytic function your oven temperature will be raised to around 500°C for up to two hours, burning off all food and grease residue and carbonising everything to leave the cavity and oven furniture spotlessly clean. (text stolen from Rangemaster web site)


So, you turn on the oven.
It runs up to high temperature and after a short while the 13A fuse in the plug blows. After two cleaning cycles the plug, or the socket will fail and the kitchen then has no oven until a proper electrician runs a dedicated 16A radial from the fuseboard to the oven.
 
It works like this:

The oven has special linings, all the gunge comes off with high temperatures.
Very simply, when you select the pyrolytic function your oven temperature will be raised to around 500°C for up to two hours, burning off all food and grease residue and carbonising everything to leave the cavity and oven furniture spotlessly clean. (text stolen from Rangemaster web site)


So, you turn on the oven.
It runs up to high temperature and after a short while the 13A fuse in the plug blows. After two cleaning cycles the plug, or the socket will fail and the kitchen then has no oven until a proper electrician runs a dedicated 16A radial from the fuseboard to the oven.

Christ that's got to cost a fortune to clean it.
 
Christ that's got to cost a fortune to clean it.

Yep but remember just how lazy Joe public can be ie parking on a double yellow line outside a supermarket then jumps out the motor in their jogging suit to get their double decker egg and bacon roll with a latte. so pushing a button to self clean the oven lets you spend more time on the couch
 
Then she says your dinner is in the oven and when you open it there a pile of cleaning products and when you ask where is it she say we are having a chippie so get that cleaned before I get back lol

true, i was trying to make out i wear the trousers. truth is if i want something edable i cook it myself
 
I recently came into contact with an installation where the homeowner had roughed 6mm t&e into a plug and ran the cooker from the nearest socket. They had used it like this for months and could use everything except for the main oven, they found this out because every time they tried to use the oven the circuit protective device would trip lol

It's now on it's own circuit and the person that does the cooking is happy :D
 
It works like this:

The oven has special linings, all the gunge comes off with high temperatures.
Very simply, when you select the pyrolytic function your oven temperature will be raised to around 500°C for up to two hours, burning off all food and grease residue and carbonising everything to leave the cavity and oven furniture spotlessly clean. (text stolen from Rangemaster web site)


So, you turn on the oven.
It runs up to high temperature and after a short while the 13A fuse in the plug blows. After two cleaning cycles the plug, or the socket will fail and the kitchen then has no oven until a proper electrician runs a dedicated 16A radial from the fuseboard to the oven.

Never seen a self cleaning oven that actually works to this day!!!!.....

To get an accurate assessment of the maximum total KW it can draw, you need to get hold of the operating instructions and find out what elements can/do run together and which don't via the oven programmer. I've never come across an electric oven that can deliver the KW rating stated on the box, as it's always the connected KW rating thats stated!!! So you might be pleasantly surprised... lol!!!
 
Did the kitchen company establish it's definitely on ring?
Or is it a 13amp socket on a dedicated circuit wired in 2.5 or bigger?
 
Did the kitchen company establish it's definitely on ring?
Or is it a 13amp socket on a dedicated circuit wired in 2.5 or bigger?

Almost certainly on the ring (only ring in the house). Im goin round tommowrow to see what I can do. I was kinda thinking along the lines of what E54 said...ie that its unlikely to pull the full 15 amps at any one time but having discovered that it goes to a very high temp during the cleaning function I reckon its prolly a good idea to put in a new circuit.
 

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