Discuss 4mm cable, 32a breaker for 16.2kw Rangemaster installed by electrician in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
I always find it odd when someone employs a fully qualified electrician and then questions everything they say.
I was also thinking about Christmas Day - there's a country estate I look after that only has a 3 phase 100A supply for multiple dwellings, and Christmas Day is the reason that I as an electrician have been insisting on changing a few cookers to gas!Personally I’d go with MI cos you can guarantee the one time it’s all on and trips will be Christmas Day and I don’t want you call me
Be fair. The questions only started when a 2nd fully qualified electrician disagreed, and then what chance does Joe Public have of working out who is right? (I'd privately decided it was unlikely to be ok until it was established it is clipped direct.)I always find it odd when someone employs a fully qualified electrician and then questions everything they say.
The cable running hot is one thing but how often are the terminations going to be checked for thermal creep and heat damageOrdinary T&E may be rated at 70 degrees, but that's hotter than the maximum allowed from a domestic hot water tap. If I installed a cable in a domestic property that ran at anywhere near that temperature, I'd expect the customer to be on the 'phone pronto.
I don't think it will get to that temperature in this case. Expected load is <28A, with the cable rated at 37A, it shouldn't get anywhere near that hot.Ordinary T&E may be rated at 70 degrees, but that's hotter than the maximum allowed from a domestic hot water tap. If I installed a cable in a domestic property that ran at anywhere near that temperature, I'd expect the customer to be on the 'phone pronto.
...Because a second qualified electrician would not fit the appliance the first qualified electrician fitted, saying it was wrong and wouldn't last. Therfore, I turn to gain a consensus somewhere for assurance... thanks again for the advice from everyone.I always find it odd when someone employs a fully qualified electrician and then questions everything they say.
First of all welcome! I hope the above doesn't make too painful reading - there are certainly gentler ways to join a forum!Hello all.
I'm the first guy.
I couldn't fit the oven not because I refused to but because I was on holiday.
Are those saying you need 6mm on a clipped direct no derating factor 32a circuit saying they disagree with the iet table? I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm just following the book. Surely the iet have checked these as a long term load.
Cheers
Gc
Hello all.
I'm the first guy.
I couldn't fit the oven not because I refused to but because I was on holiday.
Are those saying you need 6mm on a clipped direct no derating factor 32a circuit saying they disagree with the iet table? I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm just following the book. Surely the iet have checked these as a long term load.
Cheers
Gc
Shower is a known fixed load (often less than initially expected if the rating of the shower is declared at 240V), and is not normally used for more than about 5 minutes at a time by normal people.
You give mountains of insulation as a reason but what about cables run in voids where the ambient temperature with heating pipes that can be at 60ºC+ is never really consideredCan’t believe some here are advocating 10mm for domestic cookers. Absolutely no need unless it’s run through mountains of insulation making 6mm on a 32A OCPD non compliant.
There are a lot of appliances where the ratings are grossly over what they will run at in normal use, I suppose some of the debate in this thread revolves around a cable that may be close to it's limit and how any future changes in the building fabric may push it over that edge a cable clipped direct could be a cable that is boxed in a few months down the lineNever known any domestic cooker to require more than 32A and I’ve had this argument many many many times before.
Since the first electric showers came to market at 6Kw the market has gone with bigger Kw's and even bigger Kw's is better and it is more likely you will find burnt cables and switches on shower circuits than cooker circuits10mm for showers is another story. That I totally agree with.
It will be fine. Should of used 6mm really as best practice, but it's not unsafe if it's fused correctly which it is. Due to the installation method the cable rating may be slightly below 32 amps but as others have said with diversity applied to the cooker your unlikely to use over 32amps anyway. I mean 32amps for cooking is so much! An oven on full power will draw 13amps max but then it will switch off intermittently once up to temperature. Induction hobs do the same with intermittent pulses. You shouldn't have a problem. If the breaker starts nuisance tripping though then you shouldn't ignore this, but I doubt it will happen.Hi, during kitchen refurbishment, the electrician installed a 4mm cable and 32a breaker for the new induction hob rangemaster oven that is rated at 16.2kw.
Same electrician couldn't connect hook up cooker, so I asked someone else to do it. The new electrician refused to connect up saying it needs a 10mm cable 45a breaker. Both professionals are in disagreement. Would be great to get a consensus here please. I want to use the oven without concern it may trip the breaker (5 induction hobs, 2 ovens and warming drawer)
Thanks
Except on modern cookers that use very poor quality terminal blocks! There is such a problem of them melting and catching fire (often on the factory side connections) the manufacturers, instead of going back to proper heavy duty type found in most cookers when I was fitting and repairing them as a job 16+ years ago, are now supplying metal covers that go over the same crappy plastic terminal blocks to contain the fire. Product manufacturers and designers are morons.Since the first electric showers came to market at 6Kw the market has gone with bigger Kw's and even bigger Kw's is better and it is more likely you will find burnt cables and switches on shower circuits than cooker circuits
And now back to the other thread about AFDD'sExcept on modern cookers that use very poor quality terminal blocks! There is such a problem of them melting and catching fire (often on the factory side connections) the manufacturers, instead of going back to proper heavy duty type found in most cookers when I was fitting and repairing them as a job 16+ years ago, are now supplying metal covers that go over the same crappy plastic terminal blocks to contain the fire. Product manufacturers and designers are morons.
Reply to 4mm cable, 32a breaker for 16.2kw Rangemaster installed by electrician in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.