Discuss Advice on Wiring 2 Single Ovens in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Welcome to ElectriciansForums.net - The American Electrical Advice Forum
Head straight to the main forums to chat by click here:  American Electrical Advice Forum

Hi guys,

I'm about to fit a new kitchen and I have ordered two single ovens which are Bosch. They are rated at 2.99KW.

They are both going in a standard oven housing unit, one above the other.

They need to be hard wired, the cable comes with the oven/s.

Both are rated 13A.

At present the current setup of the power source for the existing oven and hob is as follows;

30AMP RCD feeds to a switch in the kitchen direct from the main fuse board via 6mm single cable. There is then another cable from that switch to a socket with a red rocker switch (marked oven) which then feeds two sockets behind the existing oven via two more 6mm cables. These sockets presently feed the supply for the existing oven and one for the hob electrical ignition (two single sockets).

As the new oven/s are being fitted left of the existing oven and higher I want to disconnect one of the single sockets (leaving one for the new hob) and pull the 6mm cable back to the new location and then fit a 45AMP Dual Appliance Cooker outlet plate, run 2 lengths of 2.5mm T&E (clipped to the outside of the plasterboard) to two 13AMP fuse plates and then connect the two new ovens into that with the cable supplied with the ovens.

I'm not an electrician but my working out of this is that 2.99KW = 2990 divide 240 = 12.45 (roughly) max draw on the amps.

Could someone please confirm for me that it would be safe over that method given that the RCD is 30AMP and the cable to the outlet plate is 6mm, then down to 2.5mm to fuse plates and the normal cooker cable beyond that.

Appreciate any advice as I've not fitted two ovens before but my theory is that if both ovens are on at full and drawing 13AMP then 26AMP is not going to trip the breaker.
 
Get a qualified electrician to do it leave well alone.

What advice were you expecting ?

It should be made a criminal activity working on electrical circuits or messing about with electrical installations without (proven) qualifications. The same way it is working on anything Gas.

Cheers
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
Thanks for that. I am more than capable of the work and just wanted to clarify it with someone helpful!
 

telectrix

-
Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
you can get 2 6.0mm cables out from a single cooker isolation point ( as well as the feed). use these for your 2 ovens and the 2nd outlet for the hob. your OP says they need to be hard wired. what does manufacturer say about overload protection? and what size MCB? you only mention RCD.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
Thank you telectrix. They need to be fused to 13amp. So, use the 6mm cable rather than 2.5? I've got the cable, just about to get the isolation plate and fuse plates.

Sorry, should have added, the MCB is 32AMP.
 
Last edited:
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
so you willl need to fit a FCU for each oven. the 32A MCB is just to protect the 6mm.
Yes, that is what I'm going to do. Thank you so much for clarifying that. Sometimes it's good to know that my method is right. Very helpful.
 

Midwest

-
Arms
Esteemed
I'm not so sure of the requirement for FCU's, Bosch often refer to the current rating, this case 13A, as a guidance to the supply size.

You state the kW rating as 2.99. As its a single oven, I can't quite see it getting anywhere near drawing 13A. I would just replace the existing sockets to outlet connection units, with a final cable size for each appliance suitable to carry 13A. A suitable piece of 1.5mm flexible, or if scared piece of 2.5mm. FCU's are superfluous, as you already have a local isolator.

@Spacedood @Tes369 is just making the point, that you are making additions to a circuit, without relevant skills and testing equipment.

I had a colleague today asking about supply for a new shower, where the existing circuit has no RCD protection. We discussed the options, with him ending up by saying he would install a new CU himself, as my suggested estimate of cost was far too expensive. He has no test equipment other than a screwdriver.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
I'm not so sure of the requirement for FCU's, Bosch often refer to the current rating, this case 13A, as a guidance to the supply size.

You state the kW rating as 2.99. As its a single oven, I can't quite see it getting anywhere near drawing 13A. I would just replace the existing sockets to outlet connection units, with a final cable size for each appliance suitable to carry 13A. A suitable piece of 1.5mm flexible, or if scared piece of 2.5mm. FCU's are superfluous, as you already have a local isolator.

@Spacedood @Tes369 is just making the point, that you are making additions to a circuit, without relevant skills and testing equipment.

I had a colleague today asking about supply for a new shower, where the existing circuit has no RCD protection. We discussed the options, with him ending up by saying he would install a new CU himself, as my suggested estimate of cost was far too expensive. He has no test equipment other than a screwdriver.
Thanks, I didn't take the comment in a negative way. In a way I do actually agree to some respects but I have some 20 or so years experience doing this, just not with a kitchen with two ovens.

I called Bosch to ask their advice and the particular ovens ordered are to be hardwired and rated 13amp. Seems that unlike a lot of the Bosch ovens that connect via a standard 3 pin plug, this one doesn't and to be honest, it would have been a lot easier if they had.

Thanks for the reply.
 

Midwest

-
Arms
Esteemed
Thanks, I didn't take the comment in a negative way. In a way I do actually agree to some respects but I have some 20 or so years experience doing this, just not with a kitchen with two ovens.

I called Bosch to ask their advice and the particular ovens ordered are to be hardwired and rated 13amp. Seems that unlike a lot of the Bosch ovens that connect via a standard 3 pin plug, this one doesn't and to be honest, it would have been a lot easier if they had.

Thanks for the reply.
Like a lot of other cooking appliance, that do not come with a plug. Doesn't mean you have to add the equivalent.

I had a 8kW dual fuel range cooker, that the manufacturer insisted it was connected to a 40A supply. In an idle moment, I tested it from start up to full belt, never measured more than 12A.

Our previous oven, was supplied with a manufacturers lead wired in 1.5mm flex, and took 4hrs + to cook a chicken Sunday Lunch. There's a thing called diversity, which the manufacturers applied in their design for my former oven. :mad:
 
Last edited:

telectrix

-
Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
and took 4hrs + to cook a chicken Sunday Lunch.

and what's wrong with that? gives you a lot more time in the pub while 'er indoors cooks.
 

telectrix

-
Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
Thank you telectrix. They need to be fused to 13amp. So, use the 6mm cable rather than 2.5? I've got the cable, just about to get the isolation plate and fuse plates.

Sorry, should have added, the MCB is 32AMP.
you could always get a priest in to marry the single ovens. :eek::eek::eek:.
 
Get a qualified electrician to do it leave well alone.

What advice were you expecting ?

It should be made a criminal activity working on electrical circuits or messing about with electrical installations without (proven) qualifications. The same way it is working on anything Gas.

Cheers
It is not a criminal activity working on gas if it is your own installation.
 
Hi guys,

I'm about to fit a new kitchen and I have ordered two single ovens which are Bosch. They are rated at 2.99KW.

They are both going in a standard oven housing unit, one above the other.

They need to be hard wired, the cable comes with the oven/s.

Both are rated 13A.

At present the current setup of the power source for the existing oven and hob is as follows;

30AMP RCD feeds to a switch in the kitchen direct from the main fuse board via 6mm single cable. There is then another cable from that switch to a socket with a red rocker switch (marked oven) which then feeds two sockets behind the existing oven via two more 6mm cables. These sockets presently feed the supply for the existing oven and one for the hob electrical ignition (two single sockets).

As the new oven/s are being fitted left of the existing oven and higher I want to disconnect one of the single sockets (leaving one for the new hob) and pull the 6mm cable back to the new location and then fit a 45AMP Dual Appliance Cooker outlet plate, run 2 lengths of 2.5mm T&E (clipped to the outside of the plasterboard) to two 13AMP fuse plates and then connect the two new ovens into that with the cable supplied with the ovens.

I'm not an electrician but my working out of this is that 2.99KW = 2990 divide 240 = 12.45 (roughly) max draw on the amps.

Could someone please confirm for me that it would be safe over that method given that the RCD is 30AMP and the cable to the outlet plate is 6mm, then down to 2.5mm to fuse plates and the normal cooker cable beyond that.

Appreciate any advice as I've not fitted two ovens before but my theory is that if both ovens are on at full and drawing 13AMP then 26AMP is not going to trip the breaker.
It will work but if you have only one supply for both the ovens etc then if the circuit fails you will lose both ovens if only one has a fault.
 

Reply to Advice on Wiring 2 Single Ovens in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

CK Tools :) The professionals choice when it comes to Electrical Tools
This official sponsor may provide discounts for members
Top Bottom