Discuss Anyway of gluing\ sticking back boxes to a concrete wall in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello all,

I've got a job to install sockets and lights into a concrete pre - fab outbuilding, but the client does not want me to drill into the concrete building as it could ruin the warranty and "affect structural integrity", I was think perhaps grab adhesive? Any ideas?

Kind regards

Tom
 
How is a 5.5mm hole going to affect the performance of concrete?

Ask the client this, as should they request changes the boxes will need to be smashed off the wall and cause damage anyway.
 
I did an installation in a basement in Fulham a few years back. Drilling was not allowed as the walls were tanked for waterproofing.

We used a combination of adhesive plus written confirmation from the client about their understanding of the installation method and the extra precautions they should be taking using it.

Satisfied Mr Building inspector fully.
 
It sounds like the customer is just a worrier.
They'd probably be happier to just run an extension lead in there and leave it there permanently.
 
whatever you use make sure it,s solvent based,those solvent free adhesives dont seem as good as the regular stuff for some reason.
 
Yeah, their tapes have got to be seen to be believed. I was very skeptical when I first used them but I was pleasantly surprised. They're not cheap though....
 
One adhesive called sticks like s h i t . Really is the best we use it for pre fab buildings. They have the same rules saying you cant damage the integuity of the building also using sticky back trunking which is crap
 
I did ask if he knew of any way to fix the back boxes, but the guy is a bit "DIY inept". He's a nice guy and I've done quite a lot of work for him in the past, so I don't mind doing a bit of research on his behalf.
 
I did a garage last month where the pre fab concrete just shattered soon as the drill bit touched it. Resorted to using pink grip with customers permission, worked great but I would'nt do it as a standard practice.
 
CT 1 Adhesive from CEF,comes in a tube just like Silicon and Nonails. Absolutely brilliant stuff, I have just used it to glue key switches and roller door push button stations to a concrete walled grain store. It will glue/fix/seal anything.Will even seal leaking gutters and can be applied while they are still leaking.
Try it, and it will be the only tube you'll need to carry with you.
Trust me you will not be disappointed.
 
CT 1 Adhesive from CEF,comes in a tube just like Silicon and Nonails. Absolutely brilliant stuff, I have just used it to glue key switches and roller door push button stations to a concrete walled grain store. It will glue/fix/seal anything.Will even seal leaking gutters and can be applied while they are still leaking.
Try it, and it will be the only tube you'll need to carry with you.
Trust me you will not be disappointed.

Agreed it's useful stuff, I normally carry a tube of clear around with me. But for the OP, tbh mate any modern grab adhesive will do the job, some just take a bit longer to cure in the cold/damp than others. If you want to go bombproof then use a Chem-bolt substance like KFix, but I wouldn't worry too much. So long as there's a decent amount that's squidged through the screw holes, it'll hold. Your biggest problem will be keeping them level whilst they cure.
 
Make up some jigs out of battern that rest on the floor whilst the adhesive is curing, from the sounds of it there aren't many boxes to go in.
 
Make up some jigs out of battern that rest on the floor whilst the adhesive is curing, from the sounds of it there aren't many boxes to go in.

See - I was going to let him have to figure out that bit for himself.........
 

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