Bathroom light connection query

[NicWright]

Hi I'd like some advice please!

I'm trying to replace a broken wall light in my bathroom. The new light has a small, screwed box (see photo) to connect the live and neutral wires but the grommets are tiny and look like they'll only take one thin wire. I have 2 thick live & 2 thick neutral wires coming out of the wall to connect. I notice on the light that the 2 neutral wires from the bulb holders at each end go into a separate, rubber covered connector with a single wire going into the screwed box.

Is this the way I should go? Or what is the best way to do this please?


FYI - The new light will be next to the shower & is IP44 rated.

Thanks for any advice you can give me on this. Nic

 

[Darkwood]

your new light should come with instructions and its these you need to follow, please explain further about been next to shower ...what zone does it fall in as this will gauge whether the fitting would be suitable for the job.

 

[Plonker 3]

My advice is get a electrician in.

 

[shocking_eg]

bloody cheap light fittings !

how they expect you to wire into those connectors i don't know ! lol

 

[MDJ]

Disconnect that pathetic connector block in the light, throw it away and replace with a proper one, I would recommend a 10 amp minimum rated porcelin block in that light with heat resisting Sleaving over the phase conductors, I keep porcelin blocks on the van as standard due to manufactures quality being very poor as standard these days.

 

[shocking_eg]

Disconnect that pathetic connector block in the light, throw it away and replace with a proper one, I would recommend a 10 amp minimum rated porcelin block in that light with heat resisting Sleaving over the phase conductors, I keep porcelin blocks on the van as standard due to manufactures quality being very poor as standard these days.

think they use those silly boxes to meet the IP rating of the fitting somehow ?

 

[MDJ]

Really? you may well be right, however IMO providing the lid has a Proper seal and can be IPX4 Rated then I cannot understand why those connectors need to be used, assuming any rear entry by cabling is properly sealed also.

 

[electric will]

think they use those silly boxes to meet the IP rating of the fitting somehow ?

i thought they were there so they could be classed as class 2
and I can see that fitting has an earth, I'm on about other fittings that I've seen them connector blocks in

 

[shocking_eg]

i thought they were there so they could be classed as class 2

maybe !?!

might have to look at the chinese regs book and see what it says ! lol

 

[NicWright]

It's beside the shower cubicle so zone 2 as I understand it!? It does come with instructions but I don't see how the cable will fit through the hole to enable me to connect it as per the instructions.

 

[craigday]

do as mike said get rid of silly connector block and use a proper sized one 10amp

- - - Updated - - -

do as mike said get rid of silly connector block and use a proper sized one 10amp

- - - Updated - - -

do as mike said get rid of silly connector block and use a proper sized one 10amp

 

[Darkwood]

It's beside the shower cubicle so zone 2 as I understand it!? It does come with instructions but I don't see how the cable will fit through the hole to enable me to connect it as per the instructions.

Welcome to our world when a customer buys some cheap crap from Ikea etc (disclaimer... cheap crap is also available at other diy stores)

 

[Edd]

the fittings not Double insulated (visible earth), and the piece of crap aint IP raited, the pull swich is visible in the picture. as above ditch the block and fit somthing more suitable for your requirements..

Edit that, is that pull switch sealed up, i can see silicone or somthing

 

[telectrix]

HAVE TO GOT A SUITABLE ENCLOSURE FOR THAT LIGHT FITTING. HERE'S ONE I MADE EARLIER.