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T

Thomps

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Just been to see a job and the guy wants his consumer unit moved. It is curently in his kitchen and he changing that to a bathroom and building a new kitchen in the extension. The original wiring looks to a decent standard so i will be looking at extending the wiring from some sort of din rail terminal system to the new board.

Do you have to use spring terminals or is it ok to use a screw terminal? Is it acceptable to join the 10mm bonding or is it a no no?

This is the first time i've ever moved a board so any advice would be appreciated.
 
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D

Deleted member 9648

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Insulated box with din rail connections is ideal.....either spring or screw,but must be accessible if they are not so called 'maintenance free'. Bonding can be joined by a compression crimp/heat shrink.
 

telectrix

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as above. wagobox do a range of din rail connectors, push in. very keen price as well.
 
or you could get a big dappy box a selection of connectors and ram them all in it council style!
On second thoughts probably better to go with post above!
 
If the original location is going to be a bathroom, then remember to use a box suitable for that location. There are plenty of IP55+ enclosures on the market, although I'm sure the client will want it boxed in somehow. Just make sure there is access to the box, unless you are installing either the LineProducts MF kit or the Ashley MF kit, as simply using push-fit connectors will not make it MF.
Of course, you could always crimp and sleeve inside the box if you have a suitable ratchet tool.
 
T

Thomps

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Thanks all.

Am i right in thinking that it would be ok to use insulinks covered in heat-shrink which is contained in a suitable enclosure? And is this a recognised MF method or would it have to be accessible?
 
T

Thomps

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The meter is also getting moved, but not by me, to the same location as the new CU.
 
N

nickblake

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The meter is also getting moved, but not by me, to the same location as the new CU.
funnily enough me an Telextric had a conversation about this the other day and to me an adaptable box and din rails all the way it was the same scenario to moving the CDU from a room to what was going to be a bathroom heres the pic of the extension boxGEDC4630.jpg the connectors are wago push in din rail mounts so easy to use to0
 

telectrix

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that's a lovely neat job, nick. my install this week is a lot less circiuts than that. i'm just debating with myself whether to go for LNE.LNE, etc. or LLL NNN EEE, etc.
 
S

StuSpiers

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that's a lovely neat job, nick. my install this week is a lot less circiuts than that. i'm just debating with myself whether to go for LNE.LNE, etc. or LLL NNN EEE, etc.

LNE everytime for me, but horses for courses.
 
N

nickblake

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that's a lovely neat job, nick. my install this week is a lot less circiuts than that. i'm just debating with myself whether to go for LNE.LNE, etc. or LLL NNN EEE, etc.
thank you Tel thats the one we were talking about the other day mate , each circuit was as it is so you have a ring its LEN LEN . then the next circuit LEN , its the way ive always done it just stuck
 
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Nice to see Din rail circuit numbers too :)
 
N

nickblake

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  • #16
that's my preference. keep each cct. together. will post a pic when done.
and im sure it will be just as neat if not better than mine , handy hint use a piece of conduit to bend the cables round makes such a nice job
 

telectrix

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well, it's only 8 circuits, so plenty of room. client may want smokes adding so have allowed for a 12 way CU.
 
N

nickblake

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glue a packet of woodbines to the outside of the CDU then
 
L

LineProducts

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How soon do you have to move the CU? If you can wait 2 weeks please pm me your contact details.
 

HandySparks

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Do tell, Line. I've a CU to move in a while (it's for my parents, so no deadline).
 

D Skelton

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Personally, when moving a CU I use crimps and SA tape, that way the cables can be buried in the wall (providing they're in a safe zone). Then again, it all depends on where the existing CU is and where it's moving too. If all the cables are surface mounted then I'll use a DIN rail box.

I had a job a while back where I had to change and move a CU due to moisture problems causing a fire within the existing CU. The cables were all behind stud wall so when moving the CU, I used crimps and SA tape to allow them to be run behind and along the wall then I used a nice piece of 3mm sheet metal to protect the cables that ran through 'non' safe zones.
 

Midwest

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Why not do away with all the connections altogether. For example, for a ring main in the old CU traced back to the first two sockets and connect them up to each other, then break into that circuit from the new CU. A lighting circuit feed would be removed from the old CU and a new feed put in from the new CU. I understand it may be more work, or would it if the new extension causes floorboards to be lifted. Certainly removes unnecessary conections/jointboxes in a bathroom?
 
S

Swicade

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Checkout the Line Link on the forum sponsor list to the right (union jack)...some pretty cool stuff there.
 
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