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Morning all

What ways do people drill out there timbers? I have started using an impact driver but its very noisy!!

My makita combi drills are ok but dont like doing it for long until they heat up.....
 
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Andy78

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Milwaukee fuel combi drill with Irwin self feed bits. Makes it an absolute doddle.
Good excuse to buy a Milwaukee hole hawg if you find yourself doing a lot of joist drilling though.
 

Pepe

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Agree with Andy, I bought a Milwaukee hole hawg. I use it with the Bosch self feed flat bits. Melts through joists no problems.
 

ChrisElectrical88

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Saw a lad snap hisbwrist with a Auger bit when i was an apprentice, traumatised for life.

Sharp spade bit and a dewalt combi with 6ah battery minces anything.
 
Impact drills are not designed for timber drilling, use a drill with a speed suitable for hole diameter, small holes fast, big hole slower. Flat bits are cheap and work well unless you are boring deep holes when auger bits are more suitable. The multi flute auger bits require a high torque drill due to increased friction of the cutting flutes over a flat bit they are also much less forgiving of clipping screws or nails in use.
 

ferg

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These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.
Blunt ones certainly, sharp ones.. no problem.
I use a variety of different Irwin flute bits and my Dewalt dcd996 Combi. Eats everything I throw at it.

The flute bits that are designed to withstand hitting nails are OK I use these when appropriate.

I use the impact driver and stubby flute bits when space is tight.

The Irwin extension bars designed for these bits are pretty damned good too.
 

Andy78

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These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.
I find that the slightest push is all that is needed to finish the last mm off using a combi drill.
 

buzzlightyear

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These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.
when drilling through timber you must pull back to clear the drill bit and it go through quicker and will not stop until you are at the other side of the wood .
 

Charlie_

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Arms
I priced a job last year off spec..
4 dormer bungalows.
Day 1 turned up on site with my special timber drilling kit (the youngen).
First thing I did was a quick celebratory dance, I beams everywhere :)
 

Taylortwocities

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I beams everywhere :)
I remember going to a new build (being built by a gang of Bulgarian builders). They were using the wooden FinnJoist(?) I-beams. These are made with a number of push out holes in the beams.

This makes it a doddle, as a pop with a hammer on each joist, and there's your cable run.
HOWEVER
the joists are not symmetrical and
the muppet builders had not set out the beams so all the holes aligned. Not a problem for me as the cables can zig and zag. The plumber, however was not amused. (He was from Poland).
 
I use my dewalt core drill with wood beaver. Flys through and good clutch or nick the plumbers holes whilst he’s having his third breakfast break
 

Charlie_

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Arms
Are we the only trade that complies with the rules for drilling timbers?
Plumbers for example drill holes wherever is convenient.. I have mentioned it a few times but they have all been oblivious to it..
 

Charlie_

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How long would that have took with the old hand held augers? :coldsweat:
 
T

Toneyz

I remember going to a new build (being built by a gang of Bulgarian builders). They were using the wooden FinnJoist(?) I-beams. These are made with a number of push out holes in the beams.

This makes it a doddle, as a pop with a hammer on each joist, and there's your cable run.
HOWEVER
the joists are not symmetrical and
the muppet builders had not set out the beams so all the holes aligned. Not a problem for me as the cables can zig and zag. The plumber, however was not amused. (He was from Poland).
Never had a house where the knock out holes lined up.
 
T

Toneyz

25mm sds auger bit in 110V makita. last job i did, the joists were 4" thick. 100+ holes in 1 hour.
Same here Tel when I used to do house bashing I beam joists only came in at the end of me doing it.
 

SparkyAndGeorge

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Keep that wrist tense. we've probably all at some point been close to a wrist injury from the kickback.
 
Best ever solution for me is my milwaukee cordless with bosch self-cut bits. all my sparky friends beg to use it when im with them. would fully reccomend. just dont hit nails though
 

Timbo

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Morning all

What ways do people drill out there timbers? I have started using an impact driver but its very noisy!!

My makita combi drills are ok but dont like doing it for long until they heat up.....
Yes i melted the brush holder on mine doing that, the trick is to put it in first gear meaning the motor and fan are going a lot quicker.
Or get a brushless drill, they don't have the brushes to overheat. But still use 1st gear.
As above an impact driver is not for drilling, only for screwing. Also re the noise thing, use ear protection, you only get one set of ears
 

pirate

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An impact driver is designed for a specific task...it does that job well.
The words "impact" and "driver" are clues!
 

Rpa07

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An impact driver doesn’t know the difference between a 10 x 2 wood screw and a Bosch flat bit with screw going into a joist - they don’t got no brains!
Ear protection is the answer and an apology to those around for the next 3 minutes of ugly noise!
 

pirate

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Use the right tool for the job...just saying...
 

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