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TJC1

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Morning all

What ways do people drill out there timbers? I have started using an impact driver but its very noisy!!

My makita combi drills are ok but dont like doing it for long until they heat up.....
 
Agree with Andy, I bought a Milwaukee hole hawg. I use it with the Bosch self feed flat bits. Melts through joists no problems.
 
Impact drills are not designed for timber drilling, use a drill with a speed suitable for hole diameter, small holes fast, big hole slower. Flat bits are cheap and work well unless you are boring deep holes when auger bits are more suitable. The multi flute auger bits require a high torque drill due to increased friction of the cutting flutes over a flat bit they are also much less forgiving of clipping screws or nails in use.
 
These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.

Blunt ones certainly, sharp ones.. no problem.
I use a variety of different Irwin flute bits and my Dewalt dcd996 Combi. Eats everything I throw at it.

The flute bits that are designed to withstand hitting nails are OK I use these when appropriate.

I use the impact driver and stubby flute bits when space is tight.

The Irwin extension bars designed for these bits are pretty damned good too.
 
These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.

I find that the slightest push is all that is needed to finish the last mm off using a combi drill.
 
These work well with an impact driver but with a standard drill they tend to stop just before they exit the joist as the screw tip protrudes and is unable to pull the blade into the wood.
when drilling through timber you must pull back to clear the drill bit and it go through quicker and will not stop until you are at the other side of the wood .
 
I beams everywhere :)
I remember going to a new build (being built by a gang of Bulgarian builders). They were using the wooden FinnJoist(?) I-beams. These are made with a number of push out holes in the beams.

This makes it a doddle, as a pop with a hammer on each joist, and there's your cable run.
HOWEVER
the joists are not symmetrical and
the muppet builders had not set out the beams so all the holes aligned. Not a problem for me as the cables can zig and zag. The plumber, however was not amused. (He was from Poland).
 
25mm sds auger bit in 110V makita. last job i did, the joists were 4" thick. 100+ holes in 1 hour.
 
I remember going to a new build (being built by a gang of Bulgarian builders). They were using the wooden FinnJoist(?) I-beams. These are made with a number of push out holes in the beams.

This makes it a doddle, as a pop with a hammer on each joist, and there's your cable run.
HOWEVER
the joists are not symmetrical and
the muppet builders had not set out the beams so all the holes aligned. Not a problem for me as the cables can zig and zag. The plumber, however was not amused. (He was from Poland).
Never had a house where the knock out holes lined up.
 

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