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Hi all,

I'd be grateful for some advice on how to wire in some new GU10 fittings. I bought these fire rated Minisun ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GSPFK2O/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

I will be removing the existing GU5.3 (MR16) fittings before starting. These fittings have a standard wiring: i.e. bulb to GU5.3 fitting to transformer to mains. The connection between the transformer and the mains uses wiring that's built into the transformer (i.e. two single wires, one each for live and neutral). The connection to the mains (which I assume is 2 core and earth) is done through a standard round junction box.

I'd like to know the best way to wire the mains to the new GU10 fittings once I've removed the transformer (and the GU5.3 fittings)

- Option 1: Is it safe to connect the mains directly into the choc box that is pre-attached to the GU10 fitting, i.e. removing the existing junction box and wiring the mains to the fitting? If I do this, the fittings are not class II, so I assume I would need to strip the mains wire sufficiently to be able to run the earth wire down to the metal body of the fitting. This doesn't seem very elegant to me, and I'm concerned that the external insulation will be gone and the choc box will only be gripping the wires themselves.

- Option 2: Would it be better to use Wago lighting connectors and a Wagobox? In which case, would I:

2A. Replace the choc box built into the GU10 fitting with a wagobox? I.e. by removing the existing junction box and then wiring both the mains and the bulb connector into the Wagobox. If so, would it matter that the wagobox was not fixed to the fitting, i.e. would this put stress on the connections? Or would it be better to attach the wagobox to the fitting, e.g. with a zip tie?

OR

2B. Use both a wagobox and the choc box on the GU10 fitting? I.e. by replacing the existing junction box with a wagobox, and then running a new wire between the wagobox and the choc box on the fitting. If so, what kind of wire would I need?

Thanks!!

Matt
 
in your situation i would pre-flex the new fittings each with approx. 10" of 3 core 0.75mm flex. then connect the other end of the flex into the existing round JBs. making sure all connections are good. if the fittings have an earth terminal, use it. if not just fit a single choc block to the cpc.
 
in your situation i would pre-flex the new fittings each with approx. 10" of 3 core 0.75mm flex. then connect the other end of the flex into the existing round JBs. making sure all connections are good. if the fittings have an earth terminal, use it. if not just fit a single choc block to the cpc.
he meant connector block ;)
 
in your situation i would pre-flex the new fittings each with approx. 10" of 3 core 0.75mm flex. then connect the other end of the flex into the existing round JBs. making sure all connections are good. if the fittings have an earth terminal, use it. if not just fit a single choc block to the cpc.


Thanks very much for this advice. I take this to be similar to my option 2B, but just re-using the existing junction box instead of using a Wagobox.

If I can't get the round junction boxes through the ceiling holes to re-wire them then presumably it would be fine to switch the junction boxes with wagoboxes (or click flow connectors)?

On the cable to use, I think I heard that it's not allowed to step down the diameter of the cable in a ceiling? In which case, wouldn't I need 1.5 mm cable rather than 0.75 mm flex? Or would 0.75mm be okay?

Thanks,

Matt

p.s. I've read that the GU10 fittings do have earth/cpc terminals.
 
Those quick flow connectors save alot of faffing about, but thought why the male end does not exactly grip the cable(s) in place, whereas the female end does.
 
Okay, thanks all. Presumably I can use a long length of cable in place of the dedicated one on eBay. I have no idea where to connect it on the consumer unit though!

On the cable to use between the junction boxes and the gu10 fittings, I just read elsewhere that if I use flex it has to be the same diameter as the existing twin and earth in the ceiling (at least 1 mm). Is this correct?

Thanks.
 
Okay, thanks all. Presumably I can use a long length of cable in place of the dedicated one on eBay. I have no idea where to connect it on the consumer unit though!

On the cable to use between the junction boxes and the gu10 fittings, I just read elsewhere that if I use flex it has to be the same diameter as the existing twin and earth in the ceiling (at least 1 mm). Is this correct?

Thanks.


Sounds like you are playing with fire mate.
If you don’t know where to connect it to inside the consumer unit, you best shouldn’t be doing the job. Do go poking around in there it’s dangerous. Get a sparky to connect them for you.
 
. Do go poking around in there it’s dangerous. Get a sparky to connect them for you.
He means DON'T go poking…!

I was curious about this
I have no idea where to connect it on the consumer unit though!
There's nothing for you to do there. Why do you think there is?
 
Always worrying when the Amazon sales blur doesn’t show the instructions - won’t those things need fire hoods with standard lamps? Someone asked if they are rated for bathrooms and the seller replied ‘ask your electrician’! Cleary no idea on IP ratings etc.
 
Thanks all.

There are alternative versions of these lights which have IP ratings for bathrooms (which so don’t need).

I’m sure I can figure out the EFLI test. I just need to know if it’s not safe to use 0.75 mm flex. But it sounds like it’s fine.

Matt
 

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