Discuss Bonding metal studwork, in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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It would be difficult to bond a metal stud wall as the metal stud drops are not usually mechanically fixed, screwed or bolted to the floor or ceiling plate they rely on the plasterboard to hold it all together so even if you did just bond the floor or ceiling plate it may not have a good connection to the studs imho!
If the studs are not fixed to the ceiling or floor how does the wall not fall over or move
 
The studs in all the metal walls I have seen just stand In the slotted floor and ceiling rails. The studs remain free floating until the Plasterboard is screwed into the uprights this then fixes the uprights in position. The only ones that are fixed are the ones at the wall ends and floor and ceiling rails!
here is a vid.

 
The stud this company use are stapled together or if they haven't got that tool they screw the uprights with drying screws so wall will,just need bonding from one point , looks like I'll be using metal noggins .

Thanks for the advice guys .
 
The studs in all the metal walls I have seen just stand In the slotted floor and ceiling rails. The studs remain free floating until the Plasterboard is screwed into the uprights this then fixes the uprights in position. The only ones that are fixed are the ones at the wall ends and floor and ceiling rails!
here is a vid.

That is the first time I have seen a metal stud wall built that way and not sure it would stand up to much real world abuse without flexing and cracking at the joints

So the plasterboard is fixed every 300mm to the uprights but not to the top an bottom rails where there is a sizeable area of board that remains unfixed as the fixings in the uprights look to fall 100 - 150mm short of the top and bottom of the plasterboard

Why not add a screw to fix the board, the upright and the top or bottom rail for continuity all it would need then is a skirting board fixed with screws into the metalwork at a few points and they could labelled "bonding test point" for more integrity even add the odd picture hook at an upright and label that as well ??.
When it comes down to it if it is necessary to maintain continuity then it wouldn't be out of order to ask the wall fixers to adapt their methods to ensure a level of metal to metal continuity is maintained at the top and bottom rail

This supplementary bonding is easy!!! problem what problem if there is a metal stud wall that needs to be tested then a few small screws above the skirting into the metal stud would provide test points that could easily filled with some decorators caulk afterwards
 
It's all done very fast no messing around putting noggins in and the likes! What is this screwing skirting board on they just use no nails on most of the jobs I've been on?
Yes it would be better if they screwed the boards top and bottom to the rails for a bit more strength some I have been on they have put some token ones in! And height wise sometimes they are just too tall for a sheet so an infill of board is used! Most of the boards are feathered out at the edges, to give enough depth for scrim tape on the joints then about 5-6mm of board fill about 100mm wide to hide the joints and that is it. No real plastering done as the board is finished apart from the edge for painting! Throw it up and onto the next one!!
I much prefer timber studs myself, way stronger!
Sy
 
I much prefer timber studs myself, way stronger!

timber studding.Pfff! .what we need is bricks. proper walls.
 
I much prefer timber studs myself, way stronger!

timber studding.Pfff! .what we need is bricks. proper walls.
You'll be lucky, that's sooo yesterday!

On another note there is a huge new development going on fairly near me and some of the project consists of off site manufactured house units all pre plumbed and wired then lifted into position and bolted together. First time I have seen them used and quite interesting the speed they go together!
 

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