Bypassing a PIR sensor

[Al-42]

I have a 500W Security light with a built-in PIR sensor.
See: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005OB0MVW/

It works fine, but if I'm outside at night I have to move within range every few minutes to keep it on.
So what I want to do is fit a switch to bypass the PIR.

The four-way terminal strip has:
(1) live - goes to live of the PIR.
(2) Neutral - goes to neutral of both the PIR and the light bulb.
(3) Earth - goes to casing.
(4) The switched live from the PIR connects to the light bulb.



What I would like to do is fit a small weatherproof box close to the lamp with a five-way terminal strip, and run a three core down to a weatherproof single-pole double-throw switch. This could then be wired so that the switch either connects the live to terminal (1) and the light works as per normal, or, when switched the other way connects the live to terminal (4) keeping the light on.



My question is - since doing this will also connect the live to the switched live from the PIR, will this damage the PIR sensor?

 

[Taylortwocities]

That is the way to do it.

But 500watts? blimey, think about the planet.
Instead, go buy a 20watt LED PIR flood and save the polar bears (and your energy bills!)
Get one with a pulse over-ride feature, then you won't even need the switch!

 

[HandySparks]

There should be no need to switch the supply to the PIR. Just connect the switch between permanent live and switched live. That way the PIR won't have to do whatever it does when first powered up every time you switch back to 'auto'.

 

[ian.settle1]

There should be no need to switch the supply to the PIR. Just connect the switch between permanent live and switched live. That way the PIR won't have to do whatever it does when first powered up every time you switch back to 'auto'.

And also by switching the pemanent live it could stay on all the time

 

[Al-42]

There should be no need to switch the supply to the PIR. Just connect the switch between permanent live and switched live. That way the PIR won't have to do whatever it does when first powered up every time you switch back to 'auto'.

Thanks very much for that. Sounds like a much more elegant solution. It also means I can get away with using a single-pole single-throw switch.

 

[Octopus]

This is why its a good idea to run 3C&E to outside lights... from the internal switch!

 

[Al-42]

This is why its a good idea to run 3C&E to outside lights... from the internal switch!

Agreed, but it's an old house and I'd have to do a load of drilling and tracking to fit a switch indoors, so that's not an option.

Back to the subject of wiring - it occurs to me that it would be ideal to use a three-position switch (off/PIR/on) but I've been unable to find a weatherproof 3-pos switch on-line. I've looked in all the usual places (Wickes, Screwfix etc.) but with no success. Does anyone know where I could find such a thing?

 

[Taylortwocities]

One of these
Search Results - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=K4899WHI&Submit=Search

In one of these

MK Masterseal Plus K56414GRY - IP66 Modular Grid Plus Enclosure Supplied with 1 and 2 Gang Inserts - Grey - R & B STAR Electrical Wholesalers - http://www.rbstarelectrical.co.uk/products/k56414gry

Simples!

 

[Al-42]

One of these
Search Results - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=K4899WHI&Submit=Search

In one of these

MK Masterseal Plus K56414GRY - IP66 Modular Grid Plus Enclosure Supplied with 1 and 2 Gang Inserts - Grey - R & B STAR Electrical Wholesalers - http://www.rbstarelectrical.co.uk/products/k56414gry

Simples!

Perfect - thank you.