Discuss Cables and Zones in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Strange, because I've seen someone drill right through concealed steel conduit before and hit the singles contained within. I'm pretty sure Guidance Notes explicitly state that conduit wouldn't meet that requirement too and therefore needs to be earthed.Don’t know what kind of metal conduit you use?
The metal conduit I’ve used would.
Here is the bit about mechanical protection form 522.6.204:An unlucky one.
I can't see that happening especially when the electrician has just a days work wiring the house and is on another site the next day together with most domestic electricians/contractor not having one.Use a lump of wood with a hole in it to bend the conduit, or make it up off site.
Doesn’t need earthing.
Mount a BESA box - say a through box for argument's sake on the end of it in the roofspace and a stuffing gland on the other end. Bring the cables in with a 4mm^2 earth and lug that and connect to the BESA box with an M4.And how would you earth the conduit with that being accessible?
No disrespect, but whilst it is a solution realistically I can't see that happening on the domestic wiring scene. Outside lights are usually taken from the local downstairs lighting circuit.Mount a BESA box - say a through box for argument's sake on the end of it in the roofspace and a stuffing gland on the other end. Bring the cables in with a 4mm^2 earth and lug that and connect to the BESA box with an M4.
As I posted before your general development house bashing electrician is not going to be going metal conduit nor running the outside light from the switch on the ground floor all the way up to the loft. Sorry but this won't happen in the real world.I've done it on a number of occasions in domestic installations.
Do you mean some sort of blank plate?Bit left field but you could use an appliance plate at ceiling height in line with the outside light creating a zone in a line below.
Run the switch wire from this to the switch and back using the zone at the top of the wall and drop down to switch.
Then drop the switched live/N&E down from the appliance plate to the height of the O/S light and blast straight through.
I think we agreed that in earlier posts.I thought the safe zones only extended to the other side of the wall, when the wall is less than 100mm thick? Which is fine for internal partitions, but a bit tricky on an external wall. Can't remember where I saw that, so happy to be corrected....
In these situations I try to align the light and the switch, or go down the diagonal drilling approach.
Its a solution to a problem, never said it was perfect.So what you are saying is that if there is an outside wall light that on the inside wall if there is not anything to indicate the cable comes down the internal wall, not in a zone you would put a flex outlet or box with a blank plate in the wall. That's going to look great on a wall to have a random accessory plate there. A little way back I did post that I would consider installing a socket in line with outside lighting cable at least it wouldn't look out of place.
I am not a Picky sod and every method that has been posted is a way of making the situation compliant it is just not aesthetically pleasing for a random blank plate being there and I don't think it would be acceptable I know it would 100% be not in a new build.Its a solution to a problem, never said it was perfect.