Cables behind a Baton and Plaster Board wall

[Deleted member 14631]

Just wondered how other people handle running cable horizontally ie between 13 amp outlets, where there are load of batons for taking the Plaster Board on a Stone/Brick wall.
Especially on thin Batons, Yes RCD Protected as NOT 50mm depth.

Thanks

 

[telectrix]

horizontally between accessories is safe zone, so ok.

 

[rryles]

One way is to make smallish holes in the plasterboard over each of the batons. Notch the baton, run the cable and plaster over the holes.

 

[malcolmsanford]

I would try and go vertical espicially if there is a good distance between the sockets. IMO running cables horizontal is ok in a kitchen type enviroment if you have sockets, FCU, double pole switchews virtually next to each other, Most people would not expect horizontal runs if there was say 2 meters between the sockets.

I know it's classed as a safe zone, but so is running cables 150mm horizontal along the ceiling line or 150 vertical between the V of 2 wall, for me it don't sit right.

The only other thing I can think of is, are you going to weaken anything by cutting or drilling through a lot of batons. I would personally try and go vertical.

 

[Deleted member 14631]

Thanks, I was thinking of going Vertical and then horizontal through floors and back down, but just wondered what other people do before I start ripping up floors and geting access points

 

[telectrix]

if you,ve got access above under floor, then , yes , it is better practice to loop over ceiling and vertical drops to sockets.

Hate to admit it, but malcolm is right

 

[rocker]

I often use the 'padsaw out a little bit then notch the batten' approach as described above. Also, you could have a look at getting one of those freeform drill bits - they are long, semi flexible bits which you can use to drill in tight environments, then tie your cable to the end of the bit and pull it through, cable rod style. I'm thinking of getting a set myself.

 

[Deleted member 14631]

I often use the 'padsaw out a little bit then notch the batten' approach as described above. Also, you could have a look at getting one of those freeform drill bits - they are long, semi flexible bits which you can use to drill in tight environments, then tie your cable to the end of the bit and pull it through, cable rod style. I'm thinking of getting a set myself.

Thanks will have a look at the flexible bits as not seen them yet. If it helps the padsaw work that would be great ( hate padsawing) and will have to do some of it no doubt.

Any links to the Flexibile bits

 

[telectrix]

Thanks will have a look at the flexible bits as not seen them yet. If it helps the padsaw work that would be great ( hate padsawing) and will have to do some of it no doubt.

Any links to the Flexibile bits

rocker only uses padsaw and drill bits if he can't find his hammer . LOL

 

[johnboy6083]

use a large holesaw, and then you can use the same bit of plasterboard to screw back down over the notch.use filler to cover any holes, jobs a goodun

 

[hsuelec77]

One way is to make smallish holes in the plasterboard over each of the batons. Notch the baton, run the cable and plaster over the holes.

yh and fit galv box lids to cover the notch for mech protection

 

[SMB]

Is it possible to work-in with the chippies/dry-liners before they put up their battens?

If so, then do a few chases where the cables need to be run horizontally so the cables will fit behind the battens. Then protect your horizonal cables with metallic capping for sound of mind.

Nah, don't bother.

Take your cables up and over for each leg, as suggested earlier.

 

[sparkinlee]

you could have a look at getting one of those freeform drill bits - they are long, semi flexible bits which you can use to drill in tight environments...

Are these flexible bits available in the UK? Does anyone have a link?

 

[MarkieSparkie]

At the first fix I usually get the chippy to cut the battons 100mm short of the ceiling to allow use of the ceiling safe-zone for up and over legs. With the cabling run and back-boxes fixed to the wall, I cap the back boxes with Yoozybox Boxgards. The Boxgards have small spikes in each corner, the chippy/plasterer then temporarily positions one sheet of plasterboard at a time and simply presses the board on to the spikes for the accurate back-box position. Confident of the position we can join the dots with a pencil and cut the access hole. I remove the Boxgard and he fixes the plasterboard to the battons. Jobs-a-good-un!
Link below:
Yoozybox by HLH Enterprises - Domestic Elecrical Problems Solved

 

[Electro-tech]

These flexibits ! Are they like MAD BITS from Tender Lovin Care.?????

 

[Silly Sausage]

Are these the ones?

MAD Wood Drill Bit 15mm

 

[Electro-tech]

I thought we were not to post links to you know who.Anyway Now you have it in stereo.

 

[sparkinlee]

Are these the ones?

MAD Wood Drill Bit 15mm

I was thinking of these ones: 3/8in X 72in Freeform Drill Bit - have a look at the video lower down that page to get the idea.

 

[Silly Sausage]

Hahahaha... a 6 foot drill bit that cuts through plate steel as well, could do some damage with that!
Could be really useful with a bit of practice.

 

[sparkinlee]

Hahahaha... a 6 foot drill bit that cuts through plate steel as well, could do some damage with that!
Could be really useful with a bit of practice.

#

That's why I want one, but can't find a UK supplier..