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ian1511

common sense tells me that over time a hot central heating pipe over my capping for socket is bad news,an is there a minimum distance a socket should be from radiator?i av put my points were builder asked then plumber has come along an done this ready to be plastered over.way i see it 1st in best dressed,or do i charge for lifting new chipboard floor an move cables?
 
tell the dipstick to move his pipes and radiators. then send him to specsavers. ( not necessarily in that order )
 
thats is my plan mate but things never that easy,only noticed because he forgot too tell me immersion supply needed.it ad all jus bin boarded, stanley came out an boards came down.left for plasterer to sort.in a sense though done me a favour,wen i took board off by my db found half bag of drywall over cables,builder decided he wanted it lower but never extended my capping.
 
It isn't just the plumber who gets it wrong ...... I've lost count of how many times I've lifted floorboards & found cables squashed on top of central heating pipes running through notched joists.

As a bloke who is trained & qualified in electrical, plumbing & gas work now all but retired, it really does boil my p**s to see this sort of thing.
 
it's either bone idleness or stupidity, or a combination of both.
 
View attachment 4121
What about this little gem, my cooker outlet 2nd fixed, along comes gas fitter, instead of terminating his bayonet socket to left of my outlet he chooses the right hand side, wasting pipe and expecting the cooker cable to go under or over his shiny pipe. Doh!:mad:
 
View attachment 4121
What about this little gem, my cooker outlet 2nd fixed, along comes gas fitter, instead of terminating his bayonet socket to left of my outlet he chooses the right hand side, wasting pipe and expecting the cooker cable to go under or over his shiny pipe. Doh!:mad:

OK ..... but which side of the cooker does the flexi hose screw into?

Maybe it's the same side as that bayonet fitting has been fitted. If it is, then that's why the gas fitter chose to put it there, but maybe he should have fitted the pipe above your connection plate.
 
gives you something to tie wrap your cable to.
 
The job was a complete kitchen upgrade for a housing association. The tenant moving in to the property had an electric cooker (this was known to the gas fitter at the time). The gas connection put there to cater for the possibility of a future tenant that has a gas cooker. The position for the bayonet fitting had been marked on the wall at the layout stage (left side, out of picture) as per the the site plan (the fitter had a copy of the plan also).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The job was a complete kitchen upgrade for a housing association. The tenant moving in to the property had an electric cooker (this was known to the gas fitter at the time). The gas connection put there to cater for the possibility of a future tenant that has a gas cooker. The position for the bayonet fitting had been marked on the wall at the layout stage (left side, out of picture) as per the the site plan (the fitter had a copy of the plan also).[/QUOTE]

Ahhhhhh there you have the crux of the matter, never know a gas plumber to be able to understand a drawing let alone work to one
 
The job was a complete kitchen upgrade for a housing association. The tenant moving in to the property had an electric cooker (this was known to the gas fitter at the time). The gas connection put there to cater for the possibility of a future tenant that has a gas cooker. The position for the bayonet fitting had been marked on the wall at the layout stage (left side, out of picture) as per the the site plan (the fitter had a copy of the plan also).

OK Markie ...... point taken. He wants shooting for that!!

There are good, bad, indifferent and sheer bloody awful "tradesmen" in all trades!!

I hope he's fitted it with an isolator tap / cock as those bayonet fittings are only supposed to be used when temporarily moving the cooker to clean behind it. They have been known to leak.

Personally, I would have run the pipe to the wallplate & fitted a blank plug or cap & only fitted the bayonet connector when a gas cooker actually appeared.

Normally, the bayonet fitting would be fitted at the same side as the connection on the cooker so that the cooker can be pulled out for cleaning behind & under it to the maximum extent of the hose.

There should also be a cooker stability bracket screwed either to the floor or wall near the floor, and a safety chain fitted to the wall, but that will probably be fitted if & when a gas cooker arrives on site.
 
The advice given in the BS7671:2008 on-site-guide,section 7.4.3 Page 62 recommends a minimum distance,gas pipes are installed at least 150mm away from electrical equipment and at least 25mm away from electrical cables
 
The advice given in the BS7671:2008 on-site-guide,section 7.4.3 Page 62 recommends a minimum distance,gas pipes are installed at least 150mm away from electrical equipment and at least 25mm away from electrical cables

That's perfectly correct.

To get back to the o.p. (my apologies for de-railing his thread) central heating pipes carry water at temperatures of up to 90 degrees c when connected to a combi boiler (a bit less with system boilers I find) so I make every effort to keep cables as far away as possible from them. I will not consider running them in the same bay if I can avoid it, and I apply the same discipline when I'm running pipes.

When I have found cases of them being intertwined with each other, It's often been a case of six of one & half a dozen of the other when it came to apportioning blame between the plumber & the spark.
 
first come gets the choice of runs and following trades install so as not to cause problems. end of.
 

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