Code 1 Problems - Am I being Scammed?

[darkforces]

I am about to rent my 1st Floor flat out to tenants and was required to carry out an electrical survey report. The failure points were as follows.

No RCD Protection CODE 1
Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1
Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1
No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1
Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1
Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2

I bought the flat 4 years ago in 2007 and the electrical system has not been touched since then. The electrician estimates the electrical system has been in place for about 10 years. From reading around these forums RCD protection is not needed for flats on the 1st floor and also due to the age of the system also not required. Can someone confirm this. Also is this a code 1 failure?

There also seems to be some other dubious Code 1 entries which he has failed the certificate on. Can anyone clarify if these are CODE 1 problems.

I got the feeling when I spoke to this guy he was taking me for a bit of a ride as I know nothing ab out electrics so decided to come over here and ask you guys. If anyone can help with this it would be a great weight off my shoulders as the quote to make all this compliant comes to well over £800

Thanks in advance.

 

[Engineer54]

Ill leave the explanations to others far better versed in PIR matters, but Yes, you are being scammed on the use of ALL of those code 1 failures....

 

[Blowcat]

Ouch . I would change the following codes

No RCD Protection CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. (code 1 for sockets that feed equipment used outside)
Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. Buy a black marker pen and write the circuits on your self or number the fuses 1 to ?? and print the page of the PIR with the circuit details on.
Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1. Assuming the circuit cable is 2.5mm>>CODE 1
No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1>>>> CODE 4. 230V label, RCD label??, Mixed colour wiring label.
Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1. Assuming the cable is not on a plug top or fused via a fuse spur. CODE 1, but if fed via a plug top as most are then I would expect this to be satisfactory.
Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2. To be honest I would not give it a code. Smoke alarm is advised but if near the kitchen and a smoke sets it off often then a heat is good alternative.

Some testers have been instructed to be extra cautious and fear for prosecution if they dont give a code 1. Dont be too hard on him, sounds like he just aint grown any balls yet.

 

[Blowcat]

Could you tell us How many circuits did he test, how long it took him and most importantly the cost. ???

 

[JUD]

No RCD Protection CODE 1

Not necessarily a code 1. If the installation pre-dates the requirement for RCDs then code 4 (does not comply with BS 7671:2008)

Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1

Bit harsh. Again, code 4 IMO

Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1

Depends on size of circuit conductors. More info needed.

No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1

Code 4 again.

Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1

Yep. That should really be wired via an FCU or plug.



Code 1 is used when conditions present an immediate danger. IMO missing labels and warning signs are not an immediate danger.

 

[Engineer54]

Ouch . I would change the following codes

No RCD Protection CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. (code 1 for sockets that feed equipment used outside)
Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1 >>>>CODE 4. Buy a black marker pen and write the circuits on your self or number the fuses 1 to ?? and print the page of the PIR with the circuit details on.
Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1. Assuming the circuit cable is 2.5mm>>CODE 1
No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1>>>> CODE 4. 230V label, RCD label??, Mixed colour wiring label.
Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1. Assuming the cable is not on a plug top or fused via a fuse spur. CODE 1, but if fed via a plug top as most are then I would expect this to be satisfactory.
Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2. To be honest I would not give it a code. Smoke alarm is advised but if near the kitchen and a smoke sets it off often then a heat is good alternative.

Some testers have been instructed to be extra cautious and fear for prosecution if they dont give a code 1. Dont be too hard on him, sounds like he just aint grown any balls yet.

I think your two code 1's are actually code 2s from what i have read on code structures. Code 1 is reserved for imminent danger to persons or property!! But i stand to be corrected on this matter.

 

[IQ Electrical]

What a shambles of a report, boils my blood to read such garbage.

Have a read of this guide for examples of PIR codes:

http://www.esc.org.uk/fileadmin/user_upload/documents/industry/best_practice/BPG4_08.pdf

 

[Sparky Ninja]

I am about to rent my 1st Floor flat out to tenants and was required to carry out an electrical survey report. The failure points were as follows.

No RCD Protection CODE 1
Fusebox not Labelled CODE 1
Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1
No Danger Stickers or labels CODE 1
Hob ignition 0.75mm cable connected to a 32amp cooker circuit CODE 1
Heat detector in hall instead of a smoke alarm CODE 2

I bought the flat 4 years ago in 2007 and the electrical system has not been touched since then. The electrician estimates the electrical system has been in place for about 10 years. From reading around these forums RCD protection is not needed for flats on the 1st floor and also due to the age of the system also not required. Can someone confirm this. Also is this a code 1 failure?

There also seems to be some other dubious Code 1 entries which he has failed the certificate on. Can anyone clarify if these are CODE 1 problems.

I got the feeling when I spoke to this guy he was taking me for a bit of a ride as I know nothing ab out electrics so decided to come over here and ask you guys. If anyone can help with this it would be a great weight off my shoulders as the quote to make all this compliant comes to well over £800

Thanks in advance.

The electrician you hired is clearly incompetent. That's a disgusting use of a PIR.

 

[DurhamSparky]

the fact he carried out a PIR and never labeled up the CU before he left begs questions!! if any thing once you find out what they do label the box if only for your convience!!

you been scammed my friend!!

 

[JUD]

Circuit 9 should be rated at 16amps (not 32amp - firehazard) CODE 1.

This would also depend on what the circuit is supplying.

It maybe that the breaker is providing fault protection only i.e fixed load (no overload protection required).

If that were the case then you'd need to use the adiabatic equation to determine weather the conductors are correctly sized for any fault current that may occur.

 

[Blowcat]

I think your two code 1's are actually code 2s from what i have read on code structures. Code 1 is reserved for imminent danger to persons or property!! But i stand to be corrected on this matter.

On reflection Yes I guess you could give it a code 2 for the 32amp breaker but for the flex to the hob ignition I still feel a code 1 is acceptable.

 

[IQ Electrical]

On reflection Yes I guess you could give it a code 2 for the 32amp breaker but for the flex to the hob ignition I still feel a code 1 is acceptable.

A code 1 is attributed to an immediate danger that does not require a second scenario to occur to create the danger.

Examples are exposed live parts etc.

Have a look at the guide (link above) for further information.

 

[Engineer54]

On reflection Yes I guess you could give it a code 2 for the 32amp breaker but for the flex to the hob ignition I still feel a code 1 is acceptable.

Well it's certainly not something you would want to remain in place, that's for sure!! Perhaps IQ might add his veiw on that one...lol!! As i said, i stand to be corrected in both cases!!

 

[Engineer54]

OOOOps he just did, .....sort of!! lol!!

 

[IQ Electrical]

Well it's certainly not something you would want to remain in place, that's for sure!! Perhaps IQ might add his veiw on that one...lol!! As i said, i stand to be corrected in both cases!!

I think I just beat you to it!

 

[Blowcat]

A code 1 is attributed to an immediate danger that does not require a second scenario to occur to create the danger.

Examples are exposed live parts etc.

Have a look at the guide (link above) for further information.

You are weaning me to reconsider again. I guess there is a constant load attached to that circuit and no possible over load issue. I might reconsider making it a code 2 but will never admit it now.

 

[kamkam]

I would be interested in his Schedule of Inspections and test results (always look at that first before codes when looking at someones PIR). Everyone codes things differently, however looking at those two sheets can tell alot if the person is competent or not ie all boxes correctly filled and test results clear to read not made up scribble. Can you scan them and post? be interesting to know how long he was at the property too.

 

[darkforces]

Thanks for all the replies, it seems my supiscions have been confirmed. Here is the inspection report as requested. Based on this are there any additional insights?

http://affordablemortgagessource.com/downloads/inspectionreport.doc

 

[darkforces]

I would be interested in his Schedule of Inspections and test results (always look at that first before codes when looking at someones PIR). Everyone codes things differently, however looking at those two sheets can tell alot if the person is competent or not ie all boxes correctly filled and test results clear to read not made up scribble. Can you scan them and post? be interesting to know how long he was at the property too.

Have just posted a link to a report, waiting for a mod to approve it

 

[telectrix]

did this guy have a blowlamp?