Converting a manual pull-bell doorbell system to electric.

[osok]

Hello all.

I've been asked by a client to convert a pull-bell doorbell system (pulleys etc) into an electric one.

When the 'puller' by the front door gets pulled, the rod (below) goes out. I thought I'd have something there closing a circuit.



When the circuit is closed, I was thinking of having either a tube or rotary solenoid pulling/rotating the spring-loaded arm on the bell (below) so that the bell rings.



Using the string/pulley system doesn't work in the layout of the hallway of the property, hence an electric solution.

What I'd like to ask is, what is the best way of going about this, and if the solenoid route is good, what would be an efficient (cheap) implementation route?

Your technical expertise would be greatly appreciated. :bucktooth:

 

[telectrix]

go wireless. 10 minute fit.

 

[osok]

I would need a wireless transmitter activated by someone pulling the 'puller', which then transmitted to a receiver, which would then activate a 9v actuator/solenoid.

Would you be able to recommend what kit and from whom?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

For the bell pull, how about making a U-shaped guide bracket that attaches to the back of the wooden pattress with a guide hole through which the end of the rod projects. Attach to the bracket a lever-type V3 microswitch that is held depressed by end of the rod using the existing return spring. When the end of the rod is pulled away from the microswitch the normally-closed contact can operate the solenoid. For the bell, any plunger solenoid with the right travel to operate that lever could be connected with 6 inches of cord or wire and mounted to the side in a little box. Power could be provided by a conventional 12V transformer but the solenoid power will probably be greater than your typical bell.


Things to watch out for:
AC solenoids should be allowed to complete their stroke all the way shut otherwise they buzz noisily. You might need a soft buffer to stop it clunking. Some solenoids are not continuously rated so make sure it can't overheat if the pull gets jammed out. DC solenoids operate more decisively but make sure to fit the coil with a discharge diode to prevent bad arcing at the switch when released. DC and AC solenoids for the same voltage are different internally.

 

[osok]

For the bell pull, how about making a U-shaped guide bracket that attaches to the back of the wooden pattress with a guide hole through which the end of the rod projects. Attach to the bracket a lever-type V3 microswitch that is held depressed by end of the rod using the existing return spring. When the end of the rod is pulled away from the microswitch the normally-closed contact can operate the solenoid. For the bell, any plunger solenoid with the right travel to operate that lever could be connected with 6 inches of cord or wire and mounted to the side in a little box. Power could be provided by a conventional 12V transformer but the solenoid power will probably be greater than your typical bell.

OK, I'll look into buying these. Is Maplins the best place to go?

Things to watch out for:
AC solenoids should be allowed to complete their stroke all the way shut otherwise they buzz noisily. You might need a soft buffer to stop it clunking. Some solenoids are not continuously rated so make sure it can't overheat if the pull gets jammed out. DC solenoids operate more decisively but make sure to fit the coil with a discharge diode to prevent bad arcing at the switch when released. DC and AC solenoids for the same voltage are different internally.

Which supplier would you recommend for the solenoids? I looked at a couple but they were running into 100 quid plus.

I had some difficulty with the wording here - I had written 'knob shaft' and 'bell end' before going back and devising new names for these!

'Puller' came about after some considerable thought :censored:

Thanks for your help.

 

[ayjay]

get some leclache cells and convert it to electric
Leclanché cell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Silly Sausage]

get some leclache cells and convert it to electric
Leclanché cell - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

OK, who are you and what have you done with ayjay?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Solenoids shouldn't cost that much. Rotary types are usually expensive but simple loose plunger types should be a few tens or less. I'd look somewhere like Farnell or RS, maybe even CPC, you can get cheaper but they will have a handy range to choose from. Make sure the minimum force (when the armature is fully out of the coil) is well in excess of that needed to pull the lever.

If you are using a wireless link then it will be a choice of buying a proprietary wireless module for each end, or adapting a known reliable commercial product such as a decent wireless doorbell with an output stage to operate the solenoid. With a careful choice of solenoid you would be able to run on batteries at the receiving end if needed.

 

[Marvo]

I had some difficulty with the wording here - I had written 'knob shaft' and 'bell end' before going back and devising new names for these!

:lol:*tears*
I'm surprised this thread hasn't triggered the swear-word filter a few times by now.

I was on an very serious engineering forum discussing iron and copper losses caused by shaft play in a motor a few nights ago. I couldn't help but comment on the double meanings of some of the phrases being used, eventually I had to abandon the thread entirely before I got banned .

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Hello all.

I've been asked by a client to convert a pull-bell doorbell system (pulleys etc) into an electric one.

When the 'puller' by the front door gets pulled, the rod (below) goes out. I thought I'd have something there closing a circuit.

View attachment 19833View attachment 19832

When the circuit is closed, I was thinking of having either a tube or rotary solenoid pulling/rotating the spring-loaded arm on the bell (below) so that the bell rings.

View attachment 19830View attachment 19831

Using the string/pulley system doesn't work in the layout of the hallway of the property, hence an electric solution.

What I'd like to ask is, what is the best way of going about this, and if the solenoid route is good, what would be an efficient (cheap) implementation route?

Your technical expertise would be greatly appreciated. :bucktooth:

why would you?....
magnificent victorian engineering.....
not many of em left in working order...
for christs sake leave it alone...it works dont it.....

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Hello all.

I've been asked by a client to convert a pull-bell doorbell system (pulleys etc) into an electric one.

When the 'puller' by the front door gets pulled, the rod (below) goes out. I thought I'd have something there closing a circuit.

View attachment 19833View attachment 19832

When the circuit is closed, I was thinking of having either a tube or rotary solenoid pulling/rotating the spring-loaded arm on the bell (below) so that the bell rings.

View attachment 19830View attachment 19831

Using the string/pulley system doesn't work in the layout of the hallway of the property, hence an electric solution.

What I'd like to ask is, what is the best way of going about this, and if the solenoid route is good, what would be an efficient (cheap) implementation route?

Your technical expertise would be greatly appreciated. :bucktooth:

it worked for 100 or so years didn`t it....
the proportions of the hallway worked as well.....
everything was done for a reason.....
if you dont want loads of seperate rooms.....then dont live in a victorian house.....as thats how they were....

 

[ayjay]

ive worked on lots of old houses with the ting the bell system the wire is brass and springs are involved

the servant would live in the basement or the attick in abject poverty too be called on at any time night or day yet get paid virtually nothing a bit like working for a firm today

 

[osok]

it worked for 100 or so years didn`t it....
the proportions of the hallway worked as well.....
everything was done for a reason.....
if you dont want loads of seperate rooms.....then dont live in a victorian house.....as thats how they were....

It worked in someone elses Victorian property. This property had someone install an internal gutter down-pipe inside the hall, right by the rather narrow door return where this particular bit of shiny kit is supposed to be going.

Me? Well, I told them; I says "You can't be doing that, not with these Victorian Terraced houses mate, not when it's worked for over 100 years. A cryin' shame I tells yer, but you've gawn dunnit now int'cha!" I then sucked me teeth and said "Weeeeelllll, I can do it, buuuut . . . ."

They still want it though.

I've since found one of these:

An electric jiggery-shaker-thing.

All I want now is the electric kno . . . puller.