Discuss Cooker Hob Isolation switch location in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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J

jimbobaroobob

Hello there
I need to move an existing combined cooker switch/ 13 A socket in a new kitchen, as the hob will be directly below the existing location.
There is not enough 6mm cable to allow me to move it around 50cm to the left of existing position.
To avoid replacing the whole 6mm cable, one thought was to chase the 6mm cable up the wall, re-route it to the left and place a 45A DP isolation switch for the cooker inside a wall cabinet above the left hand work top. A shorter run of 6mm cable can then run from the switch out the back of the cupboard, channelled inside the wall to the cooker connection unit below the hob.
I know the rule about not attaching to kitchen 'furniture', but as the cabinets will be fixed mounted units I am not sure if this strictly applies.

I note a reply to an old previous question:

'Not forgetting that the switch/Isolator should be a minimum of 300mm/30cm/12" what ever you understand? from the edge of the cooker and NOT above the cooker! And the cooker outlet or socket? (depending on loading of cooker) should NOT be installed in the Kitchen "cupboard" Or in the adjacent cupboard!! but on or in the wall, which may mean drilling a 75mm whole in back of cupboard to pass 13amp plug top through socket, etc etc'


Many thanks
 
You have not actually asked a question there.
So long as your run is in the safe zones and there is no junction directly above the cooker then you should be OK.

Sorry, the question should have been 'Is it considered acceptable for the isolation switch to be located inside a kitchen wall cabinet?'.
 
it is acceptable if it's accessible. maybe not ideal, but sometimes compromises need to be made.
 
it is acceptable if it's accessible. maybe not ideal, but sometimes compromises need to be made.

Many thanks for your advice.
Assuming I went with this plan to have the isolation switch inside the cabinet (switch only, no socket), would it be considered acceptable to spur off the switch terminals to install a single 13A socket below the cabinet, in a safe area >30cm away from the hob?
ie original 6mm cable into the isolation switch, two cables out- one 6mm to the cooker connection box, another 2.5mm cable to a 13a single socket.
 
Many thanks for your advice.
Assuming I went with this plan to have the isolation switch inside the cabinet (switch only, no socket), would it be considered acceptable to spur off the switch terminals to install a single 13A socket below the cabinet, in a safe area >30cm away from the hob?
ie original 6mm cable into the isolation switch, two cables out- one 6mm to the cooker connection box, another 2.5mm cable to a 13a single socket.


Tell us ....WHY do you want the cooker control panel inside a kitchen cabinet, and 6mm T&E running around inside this wall cabinet?? Why not chase up behind this wall cabinet, fit a deep box as a junction box, and cable down with a new length of cable to a suitable new position for the cooker control panel??
 
Tell us ....WHY do you want the cooker control panel inside a kitchen cabinet, and 6mm T&E running around inside this wall cabinet?? Why not chase up behind this wall cabinet, fit a deep box as a junction box, and cable down with a new length of cable to a suitable new position for the cooker control panel??
eng..
you will have a service void on most units...the cable will pull behind the back panel....
and as a DP switch is for isolation purposes....and normal control goes on at the cooker itself....then i cant see it as being an issue....as long as it remains accessible of course...otherwise your defeating the object....
 

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