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Benbobaggins

On a EIC it asks for Supply Protective Device Characteristics. Type and Rated Current. I know the rated current is 100amp but whats the type??

Sorry if this is a stupid question.:confused:
 
On a EIC it asks for Supply Protective Device Characteristics. Type and Rated Current. I know the rated current is 100amp but whats the type??

Sorry if this is a stupid question.:confused:

Or even 60A in some old installs! Take a closer look at the cut out to see if its maked up.

An example is attached of what to look for.
 
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Normally BS88's have a flat faced carrier, whereas the BS1361's have the raised profile as shown in the pic, but not always!
 
On a EIC it asks for Supply Protective Device Characteristics. Type and Rated Current. I know the rated current is 100amp but whats the type??

Sorry if this is a stupid question.:confused:

hi there

you could always ring them up :D lol

if you have half a day spare and a few hundred free minutes this month :eek:

thtas how long it took to get ananswer out of eon .


cheers
 
Usually best to check the fuse inside the carrier, most carriers state the fuse is 100A, even if it's actually a 60A or 80A inside.
 
how are you surpose to check the fuse inside if the seal is still intact though mate :)

its funny there is never a seal on the ones i go to, strange that :)
 
Hi there all.

I know the niceic like you to put down all the info you can find.

I.e - rating - 60, 80, 100 etc
type - usually 1361, but they also ask for the roman numeral part of it - 11a or the newer ones are 11b (see above picture)
short circuit capacity - 33kA.
 
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I always put what ever Current rating is written on the side of the Fuse. If the actual fuse size if different from what it says on fuse carrier then that is not my problem. Thats due to the electricity board not placing the correct fuse in the correct carrier, and since we are not officially allowed to pull the main fuse then what legal choice do we have?
 
just a quick point if we are not legally allowed to pull out the main cut out fuse how do we isolate the supply.?
 
My local DNO allow registered sparks to remove seals and fuses, provided they are resealed again.

HOWEVER, if you come across a carrier with a red seal, then its best to contact DNO as these are used to reseal after evidence of tampering has been proved.
 
HOWEVER, if you come across a carrier with a red seal, then its best to contact DNO as these are used to reseal after evidence of tampering has been proved.

Handy tip! Do you use gauntlets when removing the fuse?

I know some sparks that swear by them as a huge must. :eek:
 
The bloke from YDEL didnt have gloves on when he pulled a fuse at a job i was on, I thought he would have had to, does anyone?
 
Handy tip! Do you use gauntlets when removing the fuse?

I know some sparks that swear by them as a huge must. :eek:

Generally no.

You can usually tell if one looks a bit dodgy. It is quite rare having problem fuses although i have heard of ones falling apart as they are taken out.

Just make sure ALL CU's have fuses removed/MCB's off and main switch off before pulling.
 
well i allways thought it was the only way to totally isolate the supply,so its ok for us to remove them then as long as they are re-sealed again.
 
Surely you,as aqualified competent person,are allowed to remove the main fuse.Otherwise you are being encouraged to work in an unsafe manner.
Is this why people are fitting separate isolating switches on the tails?
 

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