Discuss Does this consumer unit need replacing? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Hi there- currently having an EICR done at a rental property. Does this CU need replacing?

many thanks
If the property has a garden then yes. Also yes if the bathroom has no supplementary bonding. That CU is at least 30 years old, you wouldn’t expect the boiler or carpet to last 30 years. The consumer unit is also partly made of wood. That can’t be good when there are live terminals inside.
 
It seems to missing it's front cover.

There are very often problems where the easiest and cheapest solution is a board change.

What reason is given on the report?
 
Apologies didn’t give all info. Photo taken without front cover to show one identified issue which is that it is cut into the board therefore near combustible material. Also bathroom didn’t have bonding as you say. Out of interest what relevance is the garden? I think for 25% of a months rent it seems good piece of mind to have the board replaced
 
Out of interest what relevance is the garden?

Please ignore that blanket statement about the garden. It's incorrect.
What should have been stated was the plugs used for outside equipment, like grass cutters or hedge cutters need RCD protection. This can be done by changing a socket to one with RCD protection and no need to change the whole CU because of this.
 
What does the inspector carrying out the EICR state?

Has said EICR been completed, and quotations for remedial work been obtained, or is the "25% of a months rent" an arbitrary estimate based upon your own opinion?
 
Yes and all the wiring thats attached to it. Well thats what I would do, if it was my house. Don't give a scobby what the EICR says; I don't need a £200ish certificate to tell me that. Just saying :)
 
Some of the earth sleeving is green, implying it was done before around 1977, some if it green/yellow, though unlikely a lot of work done after.

Certainly there are a lot of good reasons for changing the board to a modern one, ideally an all-RCBO style (so each circuit has a combined MCB for over-current protection and an RCD for earth leakage protection):
  • Any after 17th regs amendment 3 are metal to be fire-resistant
  • An 18th edition board would have surge protection
  • Anything in the last decade or so would have additional RCD protection against shock
While the cables are old they are PVC (not the horrible old VIR rubber) so if they are in good condition (insulation resitance high, no signs of thermal stress or rodent damage, etc) you can probably use them for decades more to come, and that reduces the decorating impact of an update.

However, it would be worth considering having all of the accessories like 13A sockets and light switches updated if they are getting on and any have switches that are a bit sticky in action or cracked, etc. Maybe not essential if they are still usable, but then it would all be tested as part of the board replacement as well.
 
Without any other details, I would say there is a 92% chance that the consumer unit needs changing and a 7% chance it doesn't. The 1% left over is to cover all other options!
 
Based on a number of regs. and best practice guides one cannot give a definite reason as to why the board should/must be changed. Also Trading Standards would take a very dim view of anyone asserting it is a must as it is a misleading statement to give to a client leading them to spend money where it is not necessary, it may even be a criminal offence to do so.
A number of cautions and caveats could be given as to why it would improve safety in a significant manner which must be a good thing. It ultimately is a choice for the client given sage professional advice which is also honest from a professional electrician. I think any conscientious LL would agree to the wisdom of changing the board, just so long as they are not being coerced with false representations.
 
If you want some additional background reading and guidance, the Best Practice guides are here:
https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/professional-resources/best-practice-guides/
Guide #1 covers a replacement board and #4 covers electrical inspection and coding of findings. Some of the schemes have other guidance that is, shall we say, not always consistent with the views here, but any EICR should be backed up by specific aspects of the wiring regulations relating to safety.
 
Some of the earth sleeving is green, implying it was done before around 1977, some if it green/yellow, though unlikely a lot of work done after.

Certainly there are a lot of good reasons for changing the board to a modern one, ideally an all-RCBO style (so each circuit has a combined MCB for over-current protection and an RCD for earth leakage protection):
  • Any after 17th regs amendment 3 are metal to be fire-resistant
  • An 18th edition board would have surge protection
  • Anything in the last decade or so would have additional RCD protection against shock
While the cables are old they are PVC (not the horrible old VIR rubber) so if they are in good condition (insulation resitance high, no signs of thermal stress or rodent damage, etc) you can probably use them for decades more to come, and that reduces the decorating impact of an update.

However, it would be worth considering having all of the accessories like 13A sockets and light switches updated if they are getting on and any have switches that are a bit sticky in action or cracked, etc. Maybe not essential if they are still usable, but then it would all be tested as part of the board replacement as well.
If you choose to listen to these manufactures, they will not warrant there cables past 20 years.
 
If you choose to listen to these manufactures, they will not warrant there cables past 20 years.
True, but cars typically come with only a few years warranty but often last 10-20 if looked after!

The specified lifetime of cables is usually at rated max temperature, but I doubt any domestic system runs anything flat out for years on end. So usually the bits that show age-decay ar the ends where things get hot, like old filament lamp holders (problem gone largely in the LED age) or at poorly made joints that have run hot as a result. With any luck they can be cut back 5cm or so to get decent insulation again.
 

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