Does this look ok to you? Just a basic spur for downflow heater

[v64motion]

Hi guys,

I am just doing a basic spur after doing a fair bit of reading on it - would be grateful for an opinion.

I have gathered all the bits I need for putting in a down flow heater above the door in my bathroom upstairs, it will be in an "outside zone".

The kit I think I need:

Down flow heater
Winterheat Torino 2kw Bathroom Fan Heater | QVS Electrical Wholesalers

1 x Metal Clad Spur 13A Switch & Neon - placed on outside wall of bathroom
Metal Clad Spur 13A Switch & Neon - Toolstation

Wiring
Prysmian 6242YH Twin & Earth Cable 2.5mm² x 25m Grey
Prysmian 6242YH Twin & Earth Cable 2.5mm² x 25m Grey | Cable | NoLinkingToThis

My diagram proposed - Does this look ok guys?

Is there a maximum length from socket I am taking the feed from?


Cant seem to remove the old attachment, one I edited from.

Much obliged for any pointers.

 

[Pete999]

Why the "metal clad" spur?

 

[Darkwood]

I would ask that you understand bathroom zoning before siting the heater and what loading the ring your connecting to is already subject to ( is this ring running through the Kitchen or utility areas where it could be subject to loading up from associated appliances).

 

[HandySparks]

Is the particular circuit currently protected by an RCD?

And,if so, whats it's ratings?

 

[v64motion]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the replies - very helpful points and exactly what I was looking for, some education, I enjoy the learning hence why I am attempting this myself.

I appreciate that messing with electrics can be fatal hence why I want to do everything correctly and I am being super cautious- I will get everything checked over after install by a sparky, I just reallyenjoy doing things myself.

Same with the gas hobs – I did all theconnections then got a Corgi to come and check it all/pressure test and provide certificate.

Why the "metal clad" spur?
Metal clad spur - So I dont have to diginto the wall?

I would ask that you understand bathroomzoning before siting the heater and what loading the ring your connecting to isalready subject to ( is this ring running through the Kitchen or utility areaswhere it could be subject to loading up from associated appliances).
Zoning - Very good point, I will double checkit but looking at various diagrams it seems to be "out of zone".

Loading on ring being connected to.. - This will be going upstairs (only load will be whats plugged into the numerous plug sockets as it has its own ring and breaker) BUT I will be fitting one downstairs next and that will be on thekitchen plug socket ring which has a separate breaker for cooker and plugs so Ithink the load will be on its own dedicated ring (or I am totally talking waffles and don’t understand yet how everything works from the consumer unit).I will look into measuring load on a circuit.

Is the particular circuit currently protectedby an RCD?And,if so,whats it's ratings?
RCD - I dont believe it is, but will checkconsumer unit – thanks for the prompt.

It seems I will need an RCD inline to heater if one does not exist, willI also need the 13a Spur inline, or one or the other? I understand now why there is a need for an RCD.

Bear with me, I am still learning the very basics, my spacebars not working correctly lol

 

[Spoon]

You could always change the socket you are sparing off to one with a RCD.
Something along these lines. RCD06WPV - TIMEGUARD - RCD TWIN SOCKET PASSIVE | CPC UK

Your CU should be labelled up, so you know what breaker is for what circuit. Write down all the descriptions and let us know.

 

[Pete999]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the replies - very helpful points and exactly what I was looking for, some education, I enjoy the learning hence why I am attempting this myself.

I appreciate that messing with electrics can be fatal hence why I want to do everything correctly and I am being super cautious- I will get everything checked over after install by a sparky, I just reallyenjoy doing things myself.

Same with the gas hobs – I did all theconnections then got a Corgi to come and check it all/pressure test and provide certificate.

Why the "metal clad" spur?
Metal clad spur - So I dont have to diginto the wall?

I would ask that you understand bathroomzoning before siting the heater and what loading the ring your connecting to isalready subject to ( is this ring running through the Kitchen or utility areaswhere it could be subject to loading up from associated appliances).
Zoning - Very good point, I will double checkit but looking at various diagrams it seems to be "out of zone".

Loading on ring being connected to.. - This will be going upstairs (only load will be whats plugged into the numerous plug sockets as it has its own ring and breaker) BUT I will be fitting one downstairs next and that will be on thekitchen plug socket ring which has a separate breaker for cooker and plugs so Ithink the load will be on its own dedicated ring (or I am totally talking waffles and don’t understand yet how everything works from the consumer unit).I will look into measuring load on a circuit.

Is the particular circuit currently protectedby an RCD?And,if so,whats it's ratings?
RCD - I dont believe it is, but will checkconsumer unit – thanks for the prompt.

It seems I will need an RCD inline to heater if one does not exist, willI also need the 13a Spur inline, or one or the other? I understand now why there is a need for an RCD.

Bear with me, I am still learning the very basics, my spacebars not working correctly lol

You can get Plastic surface boxes

 

[Spoon]

You can get Plastic surface boxes

Will probably be cheaper as well....

 

[Pete999]

You can get Plastic surface boxes

Use a RCD fused spur if the RFC is not covered by a RCD

 

[Spoon]

Use a RCD fused spur if the RFC is not covered by a RCD

The OP hasn't said where about the socket he is sparing off is and how far away the fused spare is going from it. Depending on this wouldn't the cable going from the socket to the fused spare need to be RDC protected..... all depending on how the cable is installed or course....

 

[HandySparks]

You could always change the socket you are sparing off to one with a RCD.
Something along these lines. RCD06WPV - TIMEGUARD - RCD TWIN SOCKET PASSIVE | CPC UK

Hmm. This won't RCD protect the spur. You need an RCD FCU (spur) as others have said.

 

[Spoon]

Hmm. This won't RCD protect the spur. You need an RCD FCU (spur) as others have said.

Whoops, sorry.

 

[v64motion]

Hey guys - thanks for all your responses and for the links, much appreciated.

So basically I need RCD FCU (spur) so this cuts the power for safety reasons to prevent electrocution as it monitors current - If one is not featured within the CU (aka fusebox for us mere mortals lol) - makes sense.

Do I also then need a 13a fused spur to feed from the RCD FCU, or does that function as the spur then.

NON RCD PROTECTED SOCKET ON DOWNSTAIRS RING---->RCD FCU----->13a Fused spur----->Heater

The socket is in the kitchen.

From socket to heater location wiring length is 3.3m - up the wall, across ceiling border and into heater.

This is my CU, no model nos displayed so cant even google spec no mention of RCD:

 

[Pete999]

Hey guys - thanks for all your responses and for the links, much appreciated.

So basically I need RCD FCU (spur) so this cuts the power for safety reasons to prevent electrocution as it monitors current - If one is not featured within the CU (aka fusebox for us mere mortals lol) - makes sense.

Do I also then need a 13a fused spur to feed from the RCD FCU, or does that function as the spur then.

NON RCD PROTECTED SOCKET ON DOWNSTAIRS RING---->RCD FCU----->13a Fused spur----->Heater

The socket is in the kitchen.

From socket to heater location wiring length is 3.3m - up the wall, across ceiling border and into heater.

This is my CU, no model nos displayed so cant even google spec no mention of RCD:
View attachment 30757

It's a RCD fused spur, fused being the operative word

 

[telectrix]

need to fit RCD FCU adjacent to socket that feeds it if cable to heater is buried <50mm in wall. if cable will be surface (in trunking) then the RCD FCU can go by the heater. it can be inside bathroom if > 0.6m from bath or shower.

 

[v64motion]

Thanks again gents,


So just to clarify;


Socket----2.5m---->RCD FUSED SPUR----0.8m--->Heater


Cable surface mounted in trunking with RCD FUSED SPUR on outside of bathroom wall.


Load wise on downstairs ring there's hardly anything plugged in, we don't watch TV so the sockets only have a Fridge and a Fridge Freezer plugged into a ring of 10 double sockets, with odd charger here and there.


Think im ready to go, thanks for everyone who contributed, especially those in the Trade who have shared what is essentially their asset with me i.e. the knowledge, very much appreciated, goes to show that something so basic has to be done properly to make it safe. I will do some more reading re load and trunking type and routing the proper way.