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scotsparky

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Finnaly after 20+ years in the trade i have been caught and have to do a domestic rewire. I have had no experiance with them only done Industrial , commercial. All hints Tips and shortcuts are needed sure you have loads.
 
Different kettle of fish , are you able to use existing conduit drops, are the floors chipboard:( or floorboards:) have done a recy
 
Are there people living there, means cleaning up at night and leaving them with power, then theres the furniture. As said floorboards is a smiley but not chipboard. Remember commercial and Industrial is for proper sparks. Domestic is for housebashers.:D:D:D

Just kidding boys Ive done both, and still do, Dont want to start world war three on the thread.;)
 
its a 1950s bungalo with a loft converstion. everyman and his dog has had a go and i did a PIR on it and highlighted about 30 faults. Fortunatly no occupants
Cables are plastered and its floorboards. full rewire and new D.B as well as new main bonding.to go in i think. I need to know the tricks of running cables fast. All cabling is poor even some VIR about and the Incommers is undersized so supply authority has to come out (scottish power ane fussy)
 
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Think your cable runs through before starting. The lids from a couple off lenghts of mt1 or 2 can be a great help running with the joists under the floor. and only lift the boards you need to. You will be surprised how few that is. the mt lid will get you to most places. If your chasing out remember to mention making good by others ie plastering. Also are you definate about the incomer being under sized ? are you talking about before the cut out or after. If its after you can upgrade the tails to the c/u yourself. Save getting the supply authorities out.;)
 
Think your cable runs through before starting. The lids from a couple off lenghts of mt1 or 2 can be a great help running with the joists under the floor. and only lift the boards you need to. You will be surprised how few that is. the mt lid will get you to most places. If your chasing out remember to mention making good by others ie plastering. Also are you definate about the incomer being under sized ? are you talking about before the cut out or after. If its after you can upgrade the tails to the c/u yourself. Save getting the supply authorities out.;)

You've done a few then :D
 
first thing is check the flooring, is it chipboard , is it floorboards
next thing are there any 'traps' that have been up before to save you tounging the whole floorboard and lifting
wiegh up your runs and check the loft ist boarded as this is a pain in the --- - so is chipboard flooring and these 2 will cost you time as circular saw jobby if chipbaord
is it surface or sunk in, if chased in your talking a day for all the chases depending how many sockets and switch drops
alow a day for all chasing and box sinking in
generally alow a day for the upstairs lighting and some of the ring
anotherday for the 2 or 3 rings (up down and kitchen)
another day for downstairs lighting and bonding
another day for cooker shower and outside lighting
a day for the board
a day for fitting up
( the capping is included in the days alowed for the circuits)
another day for the plastering filling in and caulking if necessary
and half a day for testing
you may find that you do things more quickly or slowly than this but if you do things quicker then it alows a bit more time to overcome any problems you come accross
also is it lived in>?
if so its a nightmare as furnature/ covering everything in dustsheets - mr jones having a sh it when your trying to do the bathroom and laying all flooring down and carpets before you go home at night
every house is different but a week to ten days is normal - 2 people a week if you work like **** off a shovel and late some evenings
10 days is ok working at normal pace half hour lunch etc
hope this helps
 
Like riding a bike Bug's, you never forget:D Yer back won't let you:D:D

Yea I know I did my app with my dads company When he first introduced me it was this is my son - give him all the **** job's and boy did I get the **** job's under floor boards climbing oround lofts and running to the wholesalers for sky hooks
 
first thing is check the flooring, is it chipboard , is it floorboards
next thing are there any 'traps' that have been up before to save you tounging the whole floorboard and lifting
wiegh up your runs and check the loft ist boarded as this is a pain in the --- - so is chipboard flooring and these 2 will cost you time as circular saw jobby if chipbaord
is it surface or sunk in, if chased in your talking a day for all the chases depending how many sockets and switch drops
alow a day for all chasing and box sinking in
generally alow a day for the upstairs lighting and some of the ring
anotherday for the 2 or 3 rings (up down and kitchen)
another day for downstairs lighting and bonding
another day for cooker shower and outside lighting
a day for the board
a day for fitting up
( the capping is included in the days alowed for the circuits)
another day for the plastering filling in and caulking if necessary
and half a day for testing
you may find that you do things more quickly or slowly than this but if you do things quicker then it alows a bit more time to overcome any problems you come accross
also is it lived in>?
if so its a nightmare as furnature/ covering everything in dustsheets - mr jones having a sh it when your trying to do the bathroom and laying all flooring down and carpets before you go home at night
every house is different but a week to ten days is normal - 2 people a week if you work like **** off a shovel and late some evenings
10 days is ok working at normal pace half hour lunch etc
hope this helps

Its an empty house and lots of voids so shouldnt take 2 long.
 
i bet you loved the fibreglass!!!

empty is the best

if loads of partition walls then even easier, less chasing making good etc

id give yourself 10 days and get an apprentice in for 3 to help you pull cable chase walls and the loft work etc, pay him 50 a day cash hell be happy

I bloody hate rewires!!!
labour intensive dirty jobs!!!

i need some staff so they can do it lol !!

forgot to say get yourself some cable jacks, best bit of kit I have
cable pulls right off and eliminates the twists

also if you have a circular saw and have a long run of joists, then cut notches with the saw wide enough for all the cable that will be going in,

youll find this saves tons of time as the cable is 'layed in' rather than threaded through each hole and this is difficult when holes are stuffed with cable, also eliminated the risk of burning or melting the pvc outer when pulling the 10mm shower cable through a 25mm hole that already had 4 2.5's and some 1mm

good luck with it!!! and buy a dust mask

just read previous about the cut out
when you need the power off and there is no supply authority 'switch'

snip the seals and remove the cut out

if you need power for a kettle etc then chop the plug off a coiled extension lead ( the drum variety)
and dab it into the meter where the old CU tails connected to and re-fit the cutout so the house is dead and your extension is live
you can also plug fridge freezers in to this while the job is on to save food being ruined
 
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if you need power for a kettle etc then chop the plug off a coiled extension lead ( the drum variety)
and dab it into the meter where the old CU tails connected to and re-fit the cutout so the house is dead and your extension is live
you can also plug fridge freezers in to this while the job is on to save food being ruined[/QUOTE]


100amp fuse on a 1.5mm flex :) ive done it before but i normally leave the old board hanging and connect the flex to a 15 fuse. still not good pratice but every man needs a cuppa.
 
Have a word in a few house bashers ears. They may know a way around that one:rolleyes:;)

See no evil, hear no evil..........What seals??? (Flea bay sell a good range)

And Lloyd, lovely cup o tea!!!!!!
 
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if you need power for a kettle etc then chop the plug off a coiled extension lead ( the drum variety)
and dab it into the meter where the old CU tails connected to and re-fit the cutout so the house is dead and your extension is live
you can also plug fridge freezers in to this while the job is on to save food being ruined


100amp fuse on a 1.5mm flex :) ive done it before but i normally leave the old board hanging and connect the flex to a 15 fuse. still not good pratice but every man needs a cuppa.[/QUOTE]

I still havent had the balls to do this! When I was on a course the fella running it said 'if the plasterer wants his radio on you can do a builder's board. That's easy I'll show you how to do that' but unfortunately on the last day he was on the sick, so I never learned how to create this mythical builders board. Anyone know what he was on about? I think it must have been something with some kind of protection - he was very safety concious.
 
I do a 13amp fused spur to a double rcd socket, with the original CU hanging!

I see your up in Scotland, soon be spring run for the salmon..........Are you near any good rivers????? May be able to come up for a week to help ........(Dont think the wife will believe me, honest sweetheart that £250 bit of carbon is a cable puller)
 
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I do a 13amp fused spur to a double rcd socket, with the original CU hanging!

I see your up in Scotland, soon be spring run for the salmon..........Are you near any good rivers????? May be able to come up for a week to help ........(Dont think the wife will believe me, honest sweetheart that £250 bit of carbon is a cable puller)

Seasons open on the Spey and i dont think your wife will be happy at the cost of fishing up there.
 
OK first day of the rewire. old D.b stripped out and new installed. sep circuit in for the kettle and radio!. Stipped out the old runs so and started to lift floor boards. Found some old Lead covered cables from first wire , old butyle T&E and the humungous big spiner bof holding up the water pipes for all the lighting. Will start chucking in Cables tommorow hopefully get most done. Wed start hooking up the D.b and final fix.
 

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