Double pole. Kitchen installation with appliances.

[Jktelectrical01]

Hi there.

Just looking for a bit of advice, I recently carried out an electrical installation within a kitchen, I never installed any new cables just repositioned the existing cabling.

I used two switched spurs to switch a under shelf fridge and freezer fed from an existing ring circuit.

The b and q electrician came out last week and insisted that I installed double pole switches for the appliances, rarther then switched spurs the reason the electrician had come out was that the oven was supplied and fitted by them selves.

A regulation number proving that dp switches are to be used over switched spurs or any advice would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[Paul.M]

537.3.2.1 (ii) and 537.3.2.6.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

page 163 (OSG) no.1 Notes to table 8B
KITCHEN
Appliances built into kitchen furniture (intergrated appliances) should be connected to a socket outlet or switch fused connection unit that is accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use. Alternatevely, where an appliance is supplied from a socket outlet or a connection unit, these should be controlled by an accessable double-pole switch or switched fused connection unit........

 

[Paul.M]

Top answer from Glenn.

I wonder if this oven sparky has confused himself and thinks that all kitchen appliances need to be on a dp switch like the oven?

It's getting late lads so correct my next bit if I'm wrong:- Any load over 13A must have its own dp switch eg cookers, ovens, showers and on its own circuit?

Look at functional switching a few numbers past the regs I gave. Good luck and come back and tell us what he said.

 

[Jktelectrical01]

Hi

Thanks for getting back to me after looking in the regs there is nothing wrong with the switched spurs.

Will keep you informed how the situation goes.

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Top answer from Glenn.

I wonder if this oven sparky has confused himself and thinks that all kitchen appliances need to be on a dp switch like the oven?

It's getting late lads so correct my next bit if I'm wrong:- Any load over 13A must have its own dp switch eg cookers, ovens, showers and on its own circuit?

Look at functional switching a few numbers past the regs I gave. Good luck and come back and tell us what he said.

The thing is paul...your answers are there clear as day so methinks theres a contradiction goin on here between OSG and BRG....Its there again paul...FUNCTIONAL SWITCHING (P121)..537.5.1.2....or pehaps i am interpreting it wrong......

 

[i=p/u]

so they do need a double pole switch or not lads?, i take it from page 163 osg they do.. am i with yas ?? or am i in mars

 

[i=p/u]

it says double pole switch or switched fuse connection unit

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Well according to P163 OSG yes but take a look at paul`s reg no.s posted above....see what you think.........

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Rite guys its late and i am up at 6 am so off now catch you all tommorow evening...
Glenn.:vanish:

 

[Paul.M]

Glenn, you pointing out the osg reg on minimum amount of skts and pointing out the kitchen reg has now got me looking through the brb (couple more months left in it yet).

I believe the answer is that any appliance using less than 13A may be supplied via a plug, fsu but if a contact plate is used a dp switch controlling it must be used. I'll flick through the book tomorrow with fresh eyes.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

All BS1363-4 SFCUs are double pole switched anyway, so if the SFCUs are above the work top, then unless the appliance is rated at >13A and/or the BS1361 temperature limits are exceeded for some reason, I can't see what the B&Q bod is arguing about.

 

[Short Circuit]

hi guys, just to throw a spanner into the works (and i might be missing something), but... aren't most FCU's Double Pole these days anyway! I know all the ones i use are, therefore you are already complying with what the B&Q bloke is asking for! and more importantly, the regs! In my mind as long as its local isolation it will be fine! I can see the reasoning for using both - if it is something like a built in fridge where the socket is directly behind, i would use a FCU and replace the plug and socket with a flex outlet plate - that way should the fuse go you will not need to remove the appliance! (until you have find out why it blew!!)

Edit - bugger! I was missing something - markies post! i didnt see the second page