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gazdkw82

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I need to install around 40 downlights in an upcoming job. Iv not had to install this amount at once before and I'm looking for fire rated and dimmable.

I'm conscious that the LAP ones you can get from screwfix and the likes are cheap but may come back to bite me in the rear.

Iv looked at the enlite h2 downlights. They are in budget. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 
The Enlite ones get a good review.

I've been using KSR for 5 years now and had no issues of a serious nature. In that time I've had less than 5 give up.
The QR10 and QR5 are the current ones. They do a colour change one should you need it.

Just picked up 10 today for my own house.
 
I need to install around 40 downlights in an upcoming job. Iv not had to install this amount at once before and I'm looking for fire rated and dimmable.

I'm conscious that the LAP ones you can get from screwfix and the likes are cheap but may come back to bite me in the rear.

Iv looked at the enlite h2 downlights. They are in budget. Any feedback would be appreciated.


I've fitted a bunch of the LAP fire rated cans (those that need a GU10 lamp, not integrated fittings) and I've got no complaints.

Definitely agree with the suggestion about using the Click style connectors. I made up a lead with a 1G socket on the end... makes testing a breeze, just plug the MFT into the socket and away you go. You can use the spare socket to make a zeroing link (line+neutral linked out to earth - connect it to the flying plug, zero the leads of the MFT and disconnect and you're set).
 
Iv looked at the enlite h2 downlights. They are in budget. Any feedback would be appreciated.

I've installed lots of FD101 downlights, my only criticism is a choc-block terminal block for the connections, easy if just one cable, but a but fiddly if you have 2 cables as in linking from one to the next downlight.
 
I've fitted a bunch of the LAP fire rated cans (those that need a GU10 lamp, not integrated fittings) and I've got no complaints.

Definitely agree with the suggestion about using the Click style connectors. I made up a lead with a 1G socket on the end... makes testing a breeze, just plug the MFT into the socket and away you go. You can use the spare socket to make a zeroing link (line+neutral linked out to earth - connect it to the flying plug, zero the leads of the MFT and disconnect and you're set).
Loving that idea! I use the click connectors a lot now - so much easier and future proof if they ever need to be changed
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Click Scholmore and put in dimmerable GU10s. Also get the 20A Click Blue Connectors in each box to make connecting them easier and compliant
I also use the green ones from TLC - pretty similar, also rated 20A
 
My go to set up is gu10 downlight from where ever is cheapest I do prefer a downlight with a bezel Ring rather than those spring clippy things , click flow connectors (or similar what ever I can get my hands on cheapest) and a decent led lamp...
this set up has never let me down
 
I've used the enlite ones linked in the OP, not a bif fan of them - the bezel is quite thick and ugly and the springs to hold the fitting to the ceiling are not that strong.

Much prefer Ansell Edge, and they come with push fit connections so a doddle to connect up.
 
The Aurora Enlite GU10 EFD Pro (EN-DLM981X) is the upgraded push connector version of this one. It needs a bezel (where IP65 can be had) and I use it with their ICE lamp. Easy, nice, reliable and cost effective if you purchase from the right place.
 
JCC V50 integrated. dimmable, selectable colour temp., push fit terminals for 2 x T/E in driver, low profile, insulation coverable, what more can you want.
 

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