Discuss Downlights lath and plaster ceiling advice please in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Folks, I read this and was nervous as I had 5 to install. The job went really well so had to feed back:

Material:
Dewalt combo drill, tungsten carbide hole saw (the really sharp one which cuts through metal), few £ on eBay from china.
LAP Cosmoseco LED spots

1. Marked locations
2. Made some small holes with 8mm masonry but first (not hammer drill) to understand there was no beam where I intended to drill, adjusted accordingly.
3. The hole saw worked great, High speed, low pressure, perfect round holes, cut the plaster, lathes, even a few nails.
4. Holes were clean but material would soon loosen with repeated light insertion - removal so I PVA’d the edges- put plenty on exposed lath ends to keep secure. The edges are now like concrete.
5.The LAP LED spots accommodate a really thick ceiling so absolutely no issues with the install.

rob
 
Thanks for that info Mike J...always good to hear about new products. I may be old-fashioned in this, but i like to browse hard copy catalogues as that is often where i spot stuff i didn't know existed, and which is not so easy to do when browsing online. Indeed, another thread on here today about the quinetic range alerted me to a product i didn't know they made, but when the new catalogue arrives i'll be having a good browse!
 
Those downlight conversion kits have been around for some time, I used them first in a bedroom when the GU10 LED's first became available, just thought I spent a lot of time and money on Tungsten bulbs that blew with regular monotony, now days the LED GU10's seem to last quite some time in comparison, even the cheap one's from China.
 
We did a referb last year, downlights in L+P, we cut out a square cutting the laths just before the nails in the joists, builder repaired with plasterboard and filled in. Nice plasterboard to cut the lights in. Went back a few weeks ago to do a load of alterations. now it's painted you would never know.

We did the same there for the sockets and switches. With a section removed, this gave space to get a drill in the stud wall for a hole for the cables and also allowed space to securely fix a nogging in to fix the back boxes. Probably a bit drastic for small jobs but it works really well.
 

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