UK Earthing Arrangement

[telectrix]

so bond the lead pipe. easy sweat a connection to that. even a plumber could do it.

 

[pc1966]

I think that is his question: should the incoming lead pipework be bonded?

Probably the boiler no longer requires bonding, but no point in removing it either. However, the lead pipe, stopcock, and filter are all extraneous parts and accessible to touch so should be bonded.
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Ah, just missed your reply!

 

[Tonychitty]

if the copper pipes in the propery are not extraneous, they can't introduce an earth potential , so bonding them is pointless. as The Borg say "resistance is futile".

but there would be if there was not a plastic tee piece

 

[pc1966]

but there would be if there was not a plastic tee piece

That becomes irrelevant if the incoming pipe is bonded.

 

[Tonychitty]

looks like the plastic has eliminated the need for bonding. the only extraneous metal pipework appears to be the incoming up to the plastic. test any copper to MET. above 22k Ohms, not extraneous. if < a couple ohms, it's bonded elsewhere, e.g. to the gas at the bolier. and what's that torpedo above the stop. is it a filter?

but should the lead pipe up to the plastic tee not be bonded as it can be touched
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so bond the lead pipe. easy sweat a connection to that. even a plumber could do it.

is there no suitable clamps for lead

 

[telectrix]

but should the lead pipe up to the plastic tee not be bonded as it can be touched

strictly speaking, yes, but then can you touch any electrical equipment at the same time?

 

[Tonychitty]

strictly speaking, yes, but then can you touch any electrical equipment at the same time?

there will be a washing machine going there

 

[telectrix]

there will be a washing machine going there

so... unless you pull the machine out and it simultaneously develops an electrical fault whilst you are turning off the water stop cock, at the same time a pink pig is flying past the window, riding on a winged elephant?????

 

[Tonychitty]

so... unless you pull the machine out and it simultaneously develops an electrical fault whilst you are turning off the water stop cock, at the same time a pink pig is flying past the window, riding on a winged elephant?????

i know, my problem is that i dont fully understand in my head what earth actually is i just think everthing needs bonding together and not fully understanding it all, but thanks for your input most appreciated.
i have looked on youtube trying to find earthing for dummies.

 

[Jim_e_Jib]

If the lead pipe supplies drinking water, I'd be inclined to replace it. A length of MDPE pipe and no more worries over bonding or lead contamination

 

[Tonychitty]

If the lead pipe supplies drinking water, I'd be inclined to replace it. A length of MDPE pipe and no more worries over bonding or lead contamination

yes i have been looking at that in the last couple of days that can be very expensive digging up the front garden.

 

[telectrix]

If the lead pipe supplies drinking water, I'd be inclined to replace it. A length of MDPE pipe and no more worries over bonding or lead contamination

that would entail a lot of digging up. all the way back to the water main in the strreet, which is probably rusty iron anyway.

 

[westward10]

This has got far too complicated. The lead service pipe requires a main protective bond.

 

[Tonychitty]

found this on the internet it mentions if you have an incoming plastic water pipe you do not need to main bond, however if the rest of the pipework there after is metal you will require main earth bonding, i have highlighted it. this is driving me mad any one shed some light please.

 

[westward10]

You do not have an all insulated service pipe. This thread has become over complicated, that lead pipe requires a main protective bond.

 

[Tonychitty]

You do not have an all insulated service pipe. This thread has become over complicated, that lead pipe requires a main protective bond.

last one promise, the rest of the copper in the installation after the plastic tee still requires main earth bonding no

 

[radiohead]

I'll try and shed some light for you.
In the event of a fault on your electrical system conductive parts (ie earthed metal parts of the electrical installation such as a metal light fitting or washing machine case) may experience a rise in potential relative to the general mass of earth which is at zero volts or thereabouts. Within a building that rise in potential is unlikely to be a serious hazard because a person in contact with a conductive part during the fault is likely to be stood on an electrically insulating surface such as a wooden floor. However the metallic water service is in contact with the general mass of earth and will introduce that potential into the building. Now there is a hazard because a person may be in contact with both a conductive part and the water service at the same time the fault is in progress and subject to a shock. By bonding both together the possibility of a potential difference is reduced. Where there is an insulating section immediately after the water service enters the property the rest of the copper pipework in the house has effectively been disconnected from the general mass of earth and so does not require bonding because it can no longer introduce an earth potential.
In your case the rest of the house pipework is isolated from the earth potential by the plastic joint, only the short section of lead and the filter are extraneous. As Tel stated what are the chances of contact between that and a conductive part for the duration of a fault? If you think there is then bond the lead. But you DO NOT NEED TO BOND THE REST OF THE PIPEWORK AFTER THE PLASTIC JOINT. In fact doing so may actually increase the shock risk in the event of a fault.
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last one promise, the rest of the copper in the installation after the plastic tee still requires main earth bonding no

NO!

 

[davesparks]

This has got far too complicated. The lead service pipe requires a main protective bond.

Main bonding should be on the consumers side of the stopcock, the lead pipe is before the stopcock, therefore the bond should be on the copper and not the lead.

 

[Tonychitty]

I'll try and shed some light for you.
In the event of a fault on your electrical system conductive parts (ie earthed metal parts of the electrical installation such as a metal light fitting or washing machine case) may experience a rise in potential relative to the general mass of earth which is at zero volts or thereabouts. Within a building that rise in potential is unlikely to be a serious hazard because a person in contact with a conductive part during the fault is likely to be stood on an electrically insulating surface such as a wooden floor. However the metallic water service is in contact with the general mass of earth and will introduce that potential into the building. Now there is a hazard because a person may be in contact with both a conductive part and the water service at the same time the fault is in progress and subject to a shock. By bonding both together the possibility of a potential difference is reduced. Where there is an insulating section immediately after the water service enters the property the rest of the copper pipework in the house has effectively been disconnected from the general mass of earth and so does not require bonding because it can no longer introduce an earth potential.
In your case the rest of the house pipework is isolated from the earth potential by the plastic joint, only the short section of lead and the filter are extraneous. As Tel stated what are the chances of contact between that and a conductive part for the duration of a fault? If you think there is then bond the lead. But you DO NOT NEED TO BOND THE REST OF THE PIPEWORK AFTER THE PLASTIC JOINT. In fact doing so may actually increase the shock risk in the event of a fault.
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NO!

im finally starting to get it thanks for finding the time and effort explaining this most appreciated

 

[radiohead]

Main bonding should be on the consumers side of the stopcock, the lead pipe is before the stopcock, therefore the bond should be on the copper and not the lead.

It should be but as can be seen from the picture that is not really possible. If the OP feels the need to bond the short section of extraneous lead before the insulating joint I see no reason why it cant go on the lead.