Discuss EICR Reports in the Periodic Inspection Reporting & Certification area at ElectriciansForums.net

C2 for grommets/ cable glands is a bit harsh in my eyes.
Whoever did that EICR obviously had the CU cover off, why did they not do an impedance test on the circuits?
They’ve done a Zs on the circuits, they’ve not recorded any R1R2 readings though.

Looks like they’ve proved continuity of protective conductors by only doing a Zs which is lazy and not allowed.

Should be proving it at every point with either an R1R2 or R2 reading.

They’ve done end to ends on the RFC, why would you not complete the rest of the tests?
 
I have no doubt that the excuse will be "unable to remove white goods" but that does not prevent the bulbs being removed, if you look at the EICR it actually says "Circuit Impedance" "All Circuits" "one column to be completed" I do not consider the EICR complete without one of these columns being filled in.
sorry Mike, I am a novice landlord so sorry for silly questions..
what page / point is "All Circuits" on ?
 
Unfortunately, as seems to be common these days, the certificate isn't that helpful in explaining some of the C2s. They've used the default observations that Tysoft inserts, and not added any useful information that would tell either another electrician or a landlord what the actual problem is.

A picture of the board might help clear some of them up.

There's a lot to pick apart in the report - but an initial sweep is already flagging up some issues with it - not necessarily in the sense of someone trying to get extra work (as happens sometimes), but more in the inexperience of completing a useful EICR.

I'm sure others will have plenty of views - but a quick list from my initial sweep:

If it's a terraced house, then Down Lights not being fire rated would not be a C2 imo - if it was a flat with a separate living accomodation above then probably, but not when it's a terraced house.

On the schedule 4.8 he states that "test button does not trip RCD" - but the test schedule does have it ticked, and the C2 seems to be for the RCD not tripping when testing trip times. It's entirely possible it's a faulty RCD, if it was a cheap brand that was put in - but it's also possible that he hasn't tested further (directly at the RCD).

If the 'single insulated' cables showing on spot lights are up in the ceiling (ie not accessible without removing the spotlight), then I consider that a C3 (albeit crap that should be fixed) - though if they are visible then it is a C2 .

I have no ideal what 'light fittings outside have entries' is, but perhaps he means they are no longer IP rated due to holes? Hard to confirm whether that's a C2 or not without a picture.

It looks like he did one universal Insulation Resistance test, since the figures are the same for all circuits. That's not necessarily an issue, but it doesn't really help give a feel for whether any circuits are particularly old or failing.

Based on just the above, I'd say that it would be hard to know from this report truly how bad the property is - so I'd certainly be cautious of any quote for remedial work.

Having said that, there may well be things that need fixing, just that they may not need to be expensive or major.

Has he quoted for remedial work yet?

Did you get an Electrical Installation Certificate for the Consumer Unit install 4 years ago? If so, it would be interesting to compare the inspection schedule against this one to see whether the lighting circuit issue is because it's pre 60s wiring, or there's just a loose wire somewhere....
 
Unfortunately, as seems to be common these days, the certificate isn't that helpful in explaining some of the C2s. They've used the default observations that Tysoft inserts, and not added any useful information that would tell either another electrician or a landlord what the actual problem is.

A picture of the board might help clear some of them up.

There's a lot to pick apart in the report - but an initial sweep is already flagging up some issues with it - not necessarily in the sense of someone trying to get extra work (as happens sometimes), but more in the inexperience of completing a useful EICR.

I'm sure others will have plenty of views - but a quick list from my initial sweep:

If it's a terraced house, then Down Lights not being fire rated would not be a C2 imo - if it was a flat with a separate living accomodation above then probably, but not when it's a terraced house.

On the schedule 4.8 he states that "test button does not trip RCD" - but the test schedule does have it ticked, and the C2 seems to be for the RCD not tripping when testing trip times. It's entirely possible it's a faulty RCD, if it was a cheap brand that was put in - but it's also possible that he hasn't tested further (directly at the RCD).

If the 'single insulated' cables showing on spot lights are up in the ceiling (ie not accessible without removing the spotlight), then I consider that a C3 (albeit crap that should be fixed) - though if they are visible then it is a C2 .

I have no ideal what 'light fittings outside have entries' is, but perhaps he means they are no longer IP rated due to holes? Hard to confirm whether that's a C2 or not without a picture.

It looks like he did one universal Insulation Resistance test, since the figures are the same for all circuits. That's not necessarily an issue, but it doesn't really help give a feel for whether any circuits are particularly old or failing.

Based on just the above, I'd say that it would be hard to know from this report truly how bad the property is - so I'd certainly be cautious of any quote for remedial work.

Having said that, there may well be things that need fixing, just that they may not need to be expensive or major.

Has he quoted for remedial work yet?

Did you get an Electrical Installation Certificate for the Consumer Unit install 4 years ago? If so, it would be interesting to compare the inspection schedule against this one to see whether the lighting circuit issue is because it's pre 60s wiring, or there's just a loose wire somewhere....
Many Thanks .
i am definitely going to send him a link of this discussion & forum for him to look at comments from fellow electricians/ experts. regards:
  • RCD test as you mention - for 4.8 as above.
  • Insulation Resistance - many Thanks - I guess , there would be some minor fluctuations, irrespective of condition of wiring / property ?
  • Remedial quote - not received due to email me this weekend - i am aware that that may not be much, but the point is if these reports are costing £150/160 , One would expect some decent recprts.
  • Last Point Electrical Instaltion certificate from 4 years ago - Yes I have . In fact the wiring was done some 10 years ago, I think

Once agin many thanks for this Guys
 
This is typical I am afraid to say and from the comments this individual is clearly not up to completing a technical Report. Seems odd there is no mention of the continuity readings for ring final circuit 6.
 
This is typical I am afraid to say and from the comments this individual is clearly not up to completing a technical Report. Seems odd there is no mention of the continuity readings for ring final circuit 6.
I think he’s probably muddled them and typed r1 r2 the wrong way round looking at them again.
 
Note to OP, sometimes an RCD can become sticky if not operated for a long time, switching manually four or five times can on occasions rectify this sticking on, may be an idea to switch it on and off a few times and then try the button again, just a thought.
 
Again seeking your help..

For down light should it be C1 or C3 - two things EE mentioned. No Earth on connection but if its Class II its not required. Am I right ?

Other as the the down light easly moved so guess it was not fire rated . I am a novice so please excuse the lack of knowledge.

again not sure of Code & 3036 DNO fuse. Where can I find info , but not on repost.
Thanks once again. Much appreciated
PK
a 3036 fuse is a rewireable fuse (replaceable fuse wire like your grandparets has on top of the fuse box. card of fuse wire from woolworths 6d. ) . not been used by DNOs since WW2.
 
No pictures. & I will ask him to expand on other technical items..
i am aware of RCD failing to trip and will be addresses.
Thnx once again
Hello Strima,
re Pictures, pls see as attached. I am sure you know this. I am a novice

The top (Red & Gray) cables from the external sources tp the meter reading. The 2x Grey at the bottom on picture are from the meter to Consumer Unit. Both sets are 16mm.

What are your thoughts considering the whole house is 60amp - I believe from notes here that 16mm adequate for anything from 80amp to 100amp.

I am awaiting more info from the EE who did the EICR .
Many Thanks Meter Tails .jpgIMG-0389.jpg
 

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  • 2_Domestic Electrical Installation Condition Report 153 Tudor Road (20904) (2).pdf
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