Discuss Electric shower pull switch isolator in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Another vote for the Crabtree 50 amp.
Superb. I pretty much insist on them after being called to a house after a fire brigade call out to a very much burnt out 45 amp switch. So I put a Crabtree in. The best I could get the shower to pull was 40 amp and all the connections were very secure in the old switch - so why did it burn out? So yeah - now I go for that extra ‘comfort margin’ - very little faith in anything else.
 
Another vote for the Crabtree 50 amp.
Superb. I pretty much insist on them after being called to a house after a fire brigade call out to a very much burnt out 45 amp switch. So I put a Crabtree in. The best I could get the shower to pull was 40 amp and all the connections were very secure in the old switch - so why did it burn out? So yeah - now I go for that extra ‘comfort margin’ - very little faith in anything else.
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If the conductors show no sign of thermal damage you can probably rule out poor terminations. In my opinion even a poor quality pull switch shouldn't really fail with a 6kw shower although you couldn't rule this out. If they are not switching this under load you can rule this out so this leaves other influences, this could be environmental such as moisture from steam or an issue with the shower itself. To rule out the switch I would fit a quality accessory such as already mentioned, Crabtree.
 
Although I agree that the Crabtree switches are very good and make terminating even 10mm cable much easier they do need fixing to the underside of a truss or similar with the way the feed and load cables come through seperate entries, so IMO not always ideal as a replacement.
The Click 50a pull switch is a good alternative, never had one fail yet and they have double screw terminals.
 
Although I agree that the Crabtree switches are very good and make terminating even 10mm cable much easier they do need fixing to the underside of a truss or similar with the way the feed and load cables come through seperate entries, so IMO not always ideal as a replacement.
The Click 50a pull switch is a good alternative, never had one fail yet and they have double screw terminals.

I know what you mean. I’ll have a look at those - I’ve not used one yet. It’s good to talk. Thankyou.
 
Although I agree that the Crabtree switches are very good and make terminating even 10mm cable much easier they do need fixing to the underside of a truss or similar with the way the feed and load cables come through seperate entries, so IMO not always ideal as a replacement.
The Click 50a pull switch is a good alternative, never had one fail yet and they have double screw terminals.
Only usually needs a small bit of wood putting in the ceiling above. Not too much trouble, but I know what you mean.
 
Everyone calmed down a little?

8 quid for a shower pull switch is a sign that it’s not very good quality. Coupled with some customers rough treatment of yanking the pull cord because it doesn’t always click on... (because it’s been yanked once too often in the past!)

Fit quality. Fit once. Forget
 
Yes, totally agree, I only wanted confirmation by my peers that it would be ok to leave isolator on mostly, to cut down on yanking. But do realize a good quality switch should be able to handle that. But thanks to the main body of the kirk for all advice ;)
 
Yes, totally agree, I only wanted confirmation by my peers that it would be ok to leave isolator on mostly, to cut down on yanking. But do realize a good quality switch should be able to handle that. But thanks to the main body of the kirk for all advice ;)

Just don’t spend too much time in there yanking away ;)
 
Yes, totally agree, I only wanted confirmation by my peers that it would be ok to leave isolator on mostly, to cut down on yanking. But do realize a good quality switch should be able to handle that. But thanks to the main body of the kirk for all advice ;)

As a electrician what consequences do you expect that makes this question valid
 

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