Discuss Empty heated towel rail in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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NickD

Haven't had a lot of dealings with towel rails, so I'm not too sure about this one...chrome towel rail about 900mm tall, not connected to the plumbing in any way, just heated via 300W electric heater element at bottom right. Also has threaded entries top left and top right with rubber bungs in. Took a bung out to peer inside and was somewhat surprised to find it completely dry inside and not filled (unless you count air). Element was dead, not surprisingly it had quite clearly been getting pretty hot. Replaced it with a 250W from Screwfix but not sure what to advise the client about the lack of fill, told them to use with caution if at all until I can clarify. Seems a bit pants to me - grateful for any input from anyone with more experience of these than me. Cheers.
 
Haven't had a lot of dealings with towel rails, so I'm not too sure about this one...chrome towel rail about 900mm tall, not connected to the plumbing in any way, just heated via 300W electric heater element at bottom right. Also has threaded entries top left and top right with rubber bungs in. Took a bung out to peer inside and was somewhat surprised to find it completely dry inside and not filled (unless you count air). Element was dead, not surprisingly it had quite clearly been getting pretty hot. Replaced it with a 250W from Screwfix but not sure what to advise the client about the lack of fill, told them to use with caution if at all until I can clarify. Seems a bit pants to me - grateful for any input from anyone with more experience of these than me. Cheers.

Next time you go round take an element with you then in case they use it with caution as you advised. While you are fitting it you can ask them to make you a cup of tea by boiling an empty kettle.
 
Really...... ring them up and tell them not to use it. Save them element number 3. Get round there and fill it, add a bit of inhibitor too. Also, how did you think it would conduct around a radiator without water?
 
Really...... ring them up and tell them not to use it. Save them element number 3. Get round there and fill it, add a bit of inhibitor too. Also, how did you think it would conduct around a radiator without water?

By air convection plus conduction through the metal - in other words, poorly, which is why I was asking the question.
 
or do an oil change on yer van and use the old oil for rhe towel rail. at least it won't rust.
 
Is the difference the times they take to burn themselves out ?

No, the difference is that an element as low-rated as 250W might, maybe, have been intended to be OK in air, hence the dilemma, whereas a 2kW of similar radiant surface area clearly would not have been.

Please note that the 2kW convector heater available for a princely £19.99 from Argos is miraculously devoid of liquid contents.
 
It will either have been oil filled or water filled.

If it started its life as an electric towel rail it will have been oil. If it was a standard towel rail with an electric element installed on site it will have been water filled with an added corrosion inhibitor. The few I have done suggested antifreeze as a suitable corrosion inhibitor.

The question I would be asking is where has all the original fluid gone? If there are no signs of a slow leak on the rail or the floor below it I'd be wondering if a diyer had already had a go at it and dumped the fluid all over the floor, then cleaning up the evidence and calling you so you can take the blame.
 
No, the difference is that an element as low-rated as 250W might, maybe, have been intended to be OK in air, hence the dilemma, whereas a 2kW of similar radiant surface area clearly would not have been.

Please note that the 2kW convector heater available for a princely £19.99 from Argos is miraculously devoid of liquid contents.

lol a miracle indeed. It's almost as if it's a totally different type of heater.
Look, enough ribbing, the heater is meant to be immersed. As others have said the rad needs filling. There are such things as dry towel rads but they are generally sealed units.
 
It will either have been oil filled or water filled.

If it started its life as an electric towel rail it will have been oil. If it was a standard towel rail with an electric element installed on site it will have been water filled with an added corrosion inhibitor. The few I have done suggested antifreeze as a suitable corrosion inhibitor.

The question I would be asking is where has all the original fluid gone? If there are no signs of a slow leak on the rail or the floor below it I'd be wondering if a diyer had already had a go at it and dumped the fluid all over the floor, then cleaning up the evidence and calling you so you can take the blame.

It's a recent build so I don't think it was ever part of the central heating system. My suspicion is it was never filled, but who knows. Current occupants have not reported it ever losing fluid.
 
It's a recent build so I don't think it was ever part of the central heating system. My suspicion is it was never filled, but who knows. Current occupants have not reported it ever losing fluid.

I recon you're right. Sounds like someone hung it on the wall and connected it up but forgot to fill it. I would expect the rubber bungs at the top to be replaced with nice chromed blanking plugs after filling.
 
I'm wondering if this towel rail was intended to be part of the central heating system with the electric element for summer use when the heating was off and never got plumbed in alternatively it was a standalone and the plumber fitted it and forgot to fill it and the spark connected it
 
Ok ... Assuming you are going to put water in it add some inhibitor as you would use in your central heating system and do NOT fill it right to the top!!

Leave a gap of about an inch to allow the water to expand as it heats up.

That is all .. you have not been charged for this advice.

EDIT:

Ok .... I just lifted this from another forum ......

Fill to 95% with water and about 10% CH inhibitor. You can use automotive antifreeze at 25-33% if you have any handy. Also best to use deionised water (from any car spares shop) if you can.

CH inhibitor will give best performance if you can get it. I bought a 1 litre bottle and it's lasting me ages, 'cos you only need about 100ml at a time.
 
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