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Discuss Error codes won't stay away in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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So here are the 3 trouble codes P0443 P0141 P0135


P0141 O2 Sensor bank 1

P0135 02 Sensor bank 2

P0433 Evaporative emissions system purge control valve circuit.


There is a bit of a sad story behind this.


A friend owns an xc Barina and her heater wasn't working. I offered to check her fuses, they were all good. There were some empty slots which I assumed were for higher models. but she said the mechanic was playing with it recently and on a one in a million chance, I tried moving one of her fuses at random (not knowing what was what) and of course I chose the wrong fuse it seems. I used the fuse labelled (only found out what it was after) "Power control module". I suspect that is what is causing the trouble code, but I have erased them twice now and they keep coming back. I have never heard of pulling a fuse causing a permanent issue. I can not help but think she must have had the light on and not noticed it? Any thoughts?


Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
 
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PEG

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Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
Hi,are there actual faults,with the vehicle,or just codes?

The two are not synonymous.

If the mechanic has removed fuses,whilst powered up (ignition does not always have to be on,for the circuits to be functional) then,this could easily cause fault codes to flag. This is very regular,with loose,damaged wiring,or,even driving in the rain.

The random swapping of fuses,will not assist in fault finding,and could add codes,which are meaningless.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
Though I've cleared them 3 times now. Twice with an OBD2 reader and once through a battery disconnect for 15 minutes.

Any fault with the o2 sensor circuit would cause bad economy at the worst I'd imagine (which she hasn't noticed) and the emissions circuit, doesn't sound like it'd interfere with running.

So are you agreeing absolutely that my removing a fuse and putting it back could not cause a persistent fault code? She's adamant it wasn't there before. .
 

Loki

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Trainee
Supporter
Advent Win
Hi,

Have you tested the voltage feed to the two O2 sensors? Would expect 11-12v
The O2 sensors have a heater element built into them. Could be this has an open circuit. Continuity test would confirm if this is the issue.

Also check the feed to the evap & resistance of the evap.

Should be plenty of youtube videos showing how to test them.

Not all engine fault codes make the engine light come on.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Hi,

Have you tested the voltage feed to the two O2 sensors? Would expect 11-12v
The O2 sensors have a heater element built into them. Could be this has an open circuit. Continuity test would confirm if this is the issue.

Also check the feed to the evap & resistance of the evap.

Should be plenty of youtube videos showing how to test them.

Not all engine fault codes make the engine light come on.
3 codes all at once suggest something further back from the individual components. Particularly if they are all controlled via the sane module I doubt they're all gone due to my pulling a fuse and putting it back It just doesn't make sense.

These 3 codes are making it come on and they all come at once.im afraid it's the module, but I can't see how it's my doing..
 

Wilko

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Arms
Esteemed
Hi - have you got a wiring diagram? On an Astra these 3 components are fed via the same 10A fuse (position 26) and taking it out will likely cause this, just saying. Credit to Bodgit and Legit video :) .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
D

Deleted member 26818

I would expect 5V at any sensor connected to the ECU.
12V would suggest bthe ECU has a poor earth.
 

PEG

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Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
Just a minute...you said there was no problem till you pulled the fuse...but you have not got a problem...

I am unsure as to whether you think,there is a problem,due to the codes,or,there is an actual,real fault?

Some marques list fault codes for short journeys,stalls,missing a gear,over revving,driving through puddles,etc,etc,

If there is no discernible,describable actual fault,these codes may have popped up from new.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
I would expect 5V at any sensor connected to the ECU.
12V would suggest bthe ECU has a poor earth.
As in if I pull off the o2 sensor lead and it's 12v rather than 5v, it's an earth issue?

Just a minute...you said there was no problem till you pulled the fuse...but you have not got a problem...

I am unsure as to whether you think,there is a problem,due to the codes,or,there is an actual,real fault?

Some marques list fault codes for short journeys,stalls,missing a gear,over revving,driving through puddles,etc,etc,

If there is no discernible,describable actual fault,these codes may have popped up from new.
Sorry, I should have clarified... The engine light won't go away. That is what I was meaning. I clear them, a few minutes after starting up, the engine light and codes are back.
 
D

Deleted member 26818

The ECU is powered by 12V.
It transforms some of that voltage to 5V for the board and the sensors.
If there’s a poor earth to the ECU, it doesn’t transform to 5V, and when you measure at the sensors, you see 12V instead of 5V.
I’ve never measured or even had to work on O2 sensors so I couldn’t say for definite what voltage should be there.
If there’s a heater in them, perhaps they have 2 voltages, 12V for the heater and 5V for the sensor.
 

PEG

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Mentor
Arms
Esteemed
Hi,you may need to plug it in to a full diagnostic machine,and not just a code reader. It will give a lot more information,and the ability to test some components,in real time.
Just for the craic,i contacted me pal in NZ,who runs a hire fleet,with some of these vehicles amongst his flock. He calls them the "travel-brothels" due to the red light always being on :rolleyes:

As for whose fault it is,i would not lose much sleep....even IF it wasn't on previous,it wouldn't have been long before it was ;)
 
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