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Can anybody help me out,I was using two hotplates on
my electric cooker when one went off and knocked off the
whole cooker,i now only have three hotplates working,
when i switch the faulty hotplate on at mark 1,it comes
on but only for about 5 seconds and then it trips the cooker
off in the fuse box.
Any idea what is going wrong.
The cooker is still under guarantee because i have only had it
for three months,Iam waiting to hear from the manufacterers.
 
element is faulty. is it tripping a RCD or a MCB?
 
Iam not an electrician so you will have to tell me what RCD / MCB means.
Can i just say that this is not the first time this has happened,
i bought a new cooker in February this year and i had the same problem,
one plate went off and then a month later a second plate went off,i got
rid of that cooker and bought this one and the same thing is happening
again.
 
RCD has a test button, is twice the width of a MCB, and usually takes out several circuits
 
It is a free standing BUSH model BESAW50W cooker,there is
no test buttons that i can see.
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I have looked in the fuse box and i cannot see any breaker switches,
just the normal switches for each circuit.
 
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The test button is on the RCD in your consumer unit. Can you post a photo of your consumer unit and highlight what trips.
 
When the hotplate went off it only tripped the Cooker switch
in the consumer box but not the RCD switch.
when i turned the cooker switch back on the oven and the other
3 hotplates worked but not the one that tripped the switch.
Something else i forgot to say is this is the third new cooker i have
had this year and the same thing happened with the other two.
 
Last edited:
When the hotplate went off it only tripped the Cooker switch
in the consumer box but not the RCD switch.
when i turned the cooker switch back on the oven and the other
3 hotplates worked but not the one that tripped the switch.
Something else i forgot to say is this is the third new cooker i have
had this year and the same thing happened with the other two.

If it is the 'switch' labelled cooker that's tripping and it's only happening with one hotplate, then it's almost certainly the element that has gone - and definitely does sound like an internal issue.

3 Cookers in a year does seem like a lot though - were they all the same make/model and were any of them installed by an electrician who also checked the installation first?

Do you have problems with any other appliances? I'm wondering if your voltage is higher than normal, and that the cookers in question are particularly sensitive to that.

One other possibility is that the cooker breaker (switch) has developed a fault and is tripping incorrectly - is the hotplate that tripped it the largest one on the appliance?
 
what rating is the cooker switch that tripped. should be labelled B32 or similar. post a pic of it.
 
The first two cookers were the same make and model but the
third one is different,
the cooker i have got now was connected by an electrician but as far as i know he didn't check the installation.
I do not have any problems with any other appliances.
It is always the big hotplates that trip but they are the ones i use the
most.with the second cooker one hotplate went and a few weeks later the other big hotplate went,and it always happens about three months after buying the cooker.
Iam getting an electrician to check the cooker switch for faults and the cooker is under guarantee so i have contacted the manufacterers to get the cooker checked.
The cooker switch is rated B32
 
With this latest cooker i was using the two big hotplates when
the cooker switch tripped,i turned off both plates and switched the electricity back on, when i checked the two plates, one came on but the other one tripped the switch again.
Iam now only using the two smaller rings on mark 4.
 
With this latest cooker i was using the two big hotplates when
the cooker switch tripped,i turned off both plates and switched the electricity back on, when i checked the two plates, one came on but the other one tripped the switch again.
Iam now only using the two smaller rings on mark 4.
It could be that the B32 breaker is faulty and is now tripping at a lower current than it should -There is no direct way to test that, but it is usually easy to swap it and it may be sensible anyway as previous overloads can cause issues with the breaker and/or the wiring to it, even if it was not the original problem.

The cooker can be tested too to see if there is an identifiable fault with it this time.

Make sure you explain to the electrician the history as it may affect the way he approaches things.

Good luck with sorting the issue out permanently.
 
The hotplate that was faulty is now working,i checked it this morning
and it came on and stayed on,i think what has caused the fault is water spillage on top of the cooker that leaked onto the electrics and has now dried out
I will wait until tomorrow to see if it is still working as normal,and if it is
i will cancel the electrician.
 

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