Fitting sockets in loft

[Jakethedog]

Afternoon

Could anyone tell me the best way to get socket mains into the loft , would it be taking the ring main from the bedroom below?
Thanks

 

[littlespark]

It depends what it’s for.

For a tv amplifier, could take it off upstairs lighting circuit, and label it for “tv amp only!”

Other low power devices are the same.
Can’t go fitting massive air con units or hydroponics up there

You can take it from the socket circuit, if there’s a nice easy route for the cable…. Or what I did… repurpose a redundant immersion heater circuit.

 

[Jakethedog]

Hi thanks for that,

I need a couple of sockets for cctv and also a couple for normal use plug sockets… unfortunately our immersion heater (ex) was down stairs … the only neat way to get it upstairs would be trunkin which would look ugly lol the upstairs walls are latt and plaster

Thanks
Jake

 

[littlespark]

Well, cctv will only be a small load, if you come off a lighting circuit… but what is the use of “normal use” sockets?

Trailing inspection light? Ok… plug in oil radiator? Not so good.

Most lighting circuits are 6A in a house, which is 1380W… not much really.


There are ways and means of getting a cable up through the inside of a lath and plaster wall, but it take a little bit of experience, a dab of using the right tools and a heck of a lot of luck

 

[Jakethedog]

Hi little spark
Thanks for your reply, I’m a plumber so tools are not a issue how to use them however luck is another matter lol … re normal use, I’m going to be boarding the loft out next year mostly for storage however whilst doing it I need somewhere to plug tools and most importantly the radio and kettle lol . Running a extension cable isn’t ideal as we have young children so looking for the tidiest way to do this whilst leaving a couple of sockets in the loft when boarded, hope this makes sense
Thanks
Jake

 

[littlespark]

Kettle??

No chance on a lighting circuit… even the smaller caravan type ones are 2kW and take an age to boil.

Ok… so it’s off the sockets or nothing.


From the attic, you might see the top of the walls… a strip of wood between the lath and plaster ceiling of the rooms. Or some exact measuring!
Make sure you’re directly above a socket.
Drill through vertically from above and you should be inside the void inside the hollow wall.

With a bit of luck you have unobstructed access between the attic and a socket.
But there could be horizontal braces in the way. That’s where luck comes in.

Power off, and remove the socket and the back box before this, and you should see daylight from the attic looking down the hole.


There are other things to watch out for… such as making sure the socket is part of a ring and already not a spur from the ring. (That’s a no-no)

 

[Jakethedog]

That’s fab thanks everyone

Yea understood re ring main , I know a kettle wouldn’t be a good fit on a lighting circuit it you explanation re void in wall is perfect thanks again
Jake

 

[brianmoooore]

Kettle?? even the smaller caravan type ones are 2kW and take an age to boil.

Not so. Some caravan hook ups are only rated at 6A, so I carry a low wattage kettle just in case. It's 900W, or just under 4A, and it does take an age to boil.
Most UK domestic kettles are only 2000W or 2300W. Not many 3kW ones around these days.

 

[DPG]

Not so. Some caravan hook ups are only rated at 6A, so I carry a low wattage kettle just in case. It's 900W, or just under 4A, and it does take an age to boil.
Most UK domestic kettles are only 2000W or 2300W these days. Not many 3kW ones around these days.

Doesn't alter the fact that he can't feed the sockets from the lighting circuit.

 

[brianmoooore]

Lath and plaster walls are usually easier to fish through than modern stud walls. Noggins half way up are unheard of, often the top of the cavity is open into the attic, and sometimes they are open all the way from the floor cavity of the room below to the attic.
The only thing to watch out for is that a few of the studs are triangulated with a diagonal brace across two adjacent cavities.

 

[brianmoooore]

Doesn't alter the fact that he can't feed the sockets from the lighting circuit.

My post was for information only, and made no reference to fitting sockets anywhere.
My personal opinion is that any 13A socket should be rated at exactly that: 13A, when no other load is connected to the circuit.
Ay low power equipment in the loft, such as TV amp, that you wish to connect to the lighting circuit, should be connected to a FCU with a 3A fuse.

 

[littlespark]

My post was for information only, and made no reference to fitting sockets anywhere.
My personal opinion is that any 13A socket should be rated at exactly that: 13A, when no other load is connected to the circuit.
Ay low power equipment in the loft, such as TV amp, that you wish to connect to the lighting circuit, should be connected to a FCU with a 3A fuse.

You can have a 13A socket on a lighting circuit if it’s labelled for only that equipment. So it’s not “general” power.

Things like tv amps come with a plug in adaptor, rather than a plugtop that can be cut off and connected into a switch fuse.

I think we’ve given enough options here, from either lighting or power circuits.

 

[Spoon]

Things like tv amps come with a plug in adaptor, rather than a plugtop that can be cut off and connected into a switch fuse.

I think that @brianmoooore was suggesting that the socket should be wired through the FCU.

 

[brianmoooore]

I think that @brianmoooore was suggesting that the socket should be wired through the FCU.

Wired direct if it can be, but through a 13A socket via a FCU if necessary.

 

[littlespark]

I think that @brianmoooore was suggesting that the socket should be wired through the FCU.

Maybe so… but the 6A mcb could trip quicker than a 3A fuse