Flush mounted socket with accessible rear

[alexp78]

I wnt to flush mount a shaver socket onto an airing cupboard. The cupboard is accessible and in use. How is this done? Surface mounting would stand out too much and be unsightly. The recess boxes (metal for brick, plastic for stud walls) do not seem appropriate or safe. My best guess is to use the plastic box, and make some sort of boxing or cover for this inside the airing cupboard.

 

[sparks1234]

I wnt to flush mount a shaver socket onto an airing cupboard. The cupboard is accessible and in use. How is this done? Surface mounting would stand out too much and be unsightly. The recess boxes (metal for brick, plastic for stud walls) do not seem appropriate or safe. My best guess is to use the plastic box, and make some sort of boxing or cover for this inside the airing cupboard.

Assuming you are still flush mounting this socket, why do the metal boxes or dryliner boxes seem unsafe, they are purpose built for the job.
If you cannot get the cable inside the wall and you still want it flush why not mini trunk it down then when you get near to your socket position chase it in to a metal box if it is a solid wall or a dryliner if it is a plasterboard wall

 

[Mac]

I wnt to flush mount a shaver socket onto an airing cupboard. The cupboard is accessible and in use. How is this done? Surface mounting would stand out too much and be unsightly. The recess boxes (metal for brick, plastic for stud walls) do not seem appropriate or safe. My best guess is to use the plastic box, and make some sort of boxing or cover for this inside the airing cupboard.

Are the walls stud or brickwork.If you have access from the loft it would be neater to chase it into the wall and flush mount it.Only an option

 

[Mr Mark Sparks]

put a surface box (pvc one)on the inside is ok

 

[alexp78]

Assuming you are still flush mounting this socket, why do the metal boxes or dryliner boxes seem unsafe, they are purpose built for the job.
If you cannot get the cable inside the wall and you still want it flush why not mini trunk it down then when you get near to your socket position chase it in to a metal box if it is a solid wall or a dryliner if it is a plasterboard wall

I don't think I explained properly. I want to mount it on the 10mm wood cladding surface of the cupboard. If it is mounted so it is flush outside the cupboard, then whatever box is used will protrude INSIDE the cupboard. The cupboard is in use, which means people open the door and stick their hands in , taking things like towels in and out of the cupboard. They will be able to manhandle the mounting box. I imagine there should be a box similar to a flush mounting box that could be used, but with a different mounting method.

 

[sparks1234]

I would use a drylining box

 

[alexp78]

put a surface box (pvc one)on the inside is ok

OK MarkSpark66, but how do I fix the box securely? The punch-out screwholes will be on the wrong surface. It seems that what I need is like a solid surface mount box, but without the back, instead having external lugs for screw fixings, and threded mounts for the socket on both sides. Then the socket can be mounted to one side, and the other side could be blanked off with a double blanking plate. If I have to make this it's pretty involved. Can I buy anythign suitable?

I would use a drylining box

Is it safe to manhandle the dryline box? Plonking something heavy into the cupboard up against it is going to be a bit dodgy. I've got pipes and T&E cable pinned in the cupboard already, OK. But I'm uneasy about the body of a soft dryline box.

 

[sparks1234]

I would say that the construction of a drylining box is arguably better than a normal pattresse as the dryliner is a soft plastic and will not shatter like the pattresse, it is deffinately the way to go, the pattresse is not designed to be used as a flushed unit, if you are unsure then mount a block of wood above it to protect it but you will at least get a proper finish on the outside

 

[Mr Mark Sparks]

thats why i said to use a pvc box you will then be able to put a bit of wood top and bottom and fix through the box without it shattering this 32mm deep one would work because the cupd wall will give the extra depth needed for shaver point and you can mini trunk into the box better than a dryliner
2 Gang 32mm PVC Surface Box with Mini Trunking KO

 

[alexp78]

thats why i said to use a pvc box you will then be able to put a bit of wood top and bottom and fix through the box without it shattering this 32mm deep one would work because the cupd wall will give the extra depth needed for shaver point and you can mini trunk into the box better than a dryliner
2 Gang 32mm PVC Surface Box with Mini Trunking KO

OK markspark. I presume the idea is that the bits of wood hold the box in place, and once the shaver point is fitted that would stop it falling out backwards too. Would the open screwholes in the back of the pattress matter? But I could glue a sheet of plastic inside the back to cover them up and stop "little Johnny" from unwrapping a paper clip and pushing it in!

 

[damo]

I wnt to flush mount a shaver socket onto an airing cupboard. The cupboard is accessible and in use. How is this done? Surface mounting would stand out too much and be unsightly. The recess boxes (metal for brick, plastic for stud walls) do not seem appropriate or safe. My best guess is to use the plastic box, and make some sort of boxing or cover for this inside the airing cupboard.

i personally would put a 47mm dryline box in and make a box out of would and fix inside the airing cupboard.Thats the easy job though i would be more concerned about the cct you are coming from to supply the shaver skt as this should in theory be protected by either the rcd or a rcbo that protects the cct as it doesnt matter if its a selv anymore that is if you are signing the job off????

 

[alexp78]

i personally would put a 47mm dryline box in and make a box out of would and fix inside the airing cupboard.Thats the easy job though i would be more concerned about the cct you are coming from to supply the shaver skt as this should in theory be protected by either the rcd or a rcbo that protects the cct as it doesnt matter if its a selv anymore that is if you are signing the job off????

Thanks damo, another good option it seems. I was avoiding the idea about building your own box, as I was sure there should already be something on the market, but I couldn't find anything. This can't be a really uncommon situation, surely?

The shaver point is a dual output 115/230volt transformer, so not low voltage. It is spurred off the ring which has RCD. SO I don't think there's any problem there.

 

[Mac]

Can you not use a moulded double box.These are pretty versatile and dont shatter like the cheap flush mounted boxes you use on council rewires

 

[alexp78]

Mac, have you got a link to an example of a moulded double box. I've been feeling up a standard pattress thinking about "adapting" it (i.e. sawing bits off, mounting it the wrong way round, drilling through the device mounting pillars so I can add a blanking plate to the opposite side of the razor).

 

[sparks1234]

Thanks damo, another good option it seems. I was avoiding the idea about building your own box, as I was sure there should already be something on the market, but I couldn't find anything. This can't be a really uncommon situation, surely?

The shaver point is a dual output 115/230volt transformer, so not low voltage. It is spurred off the ring which has RCD. SO I don't think there's any problem there.

Hang on ...did you say spurred off the ring??

 

[alexp78]

Hang on ...did you say spurred off the ring??

sparks1234,
It's an existing installation - recessing the socket to look better during bathroom decoration. Didn't think this HAD to be changed/notified ... however it could be moved to a lighting circuit and get rid the spur. Any other options?

 

[Mac]

Wilts Catalogue 13_10_08
Have a look at this mate.They have some 44mm deep back moulded boxes that maybe of some help for your shaver socket.They are the marshall tufflex range