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sivoodoo

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Hi all,

anyone have a link for some generic PAT certificates I could download for my own use, thanks in advance,

Si.
 
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S

sivoodoo

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  • #3
he he, cheers dave, i could too but its midnight, just thought there might be a nice shiny set of certs lying around unwanted!
 
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DaveC1337

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  • #4
I know nothing about electrics, well the plug has three things coming from it .. and my power supply unit of my computer is 520w LOL, I'm good at design tho.

Could you help me with something tho ?
 
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DaveC1337

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  • #6
This may seem crazy, but I'm wondering how many adapters I can have in the one socket. Say could i have a 10 way adapter then ten 4 way adapters coming off it ? whats the maximum
 
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sivoodoo

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  • #7
depends whats plugged into them and what circuit type its on, a simple rule of thumb could be to add up all the power been used, it may tell you on the appliance how many watts it uses, then use the formular amps=watts/volts.
ie. if you add up all the appliances and its say 1300 Watts then the answer would be 1300/240= 5.5 amps.
Though i wouldnt recomend what you have, lol!
 
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DaveC1337

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  • #8
Right thanks .. is there anyway of backwards calculating ? or changing the amp of an adapter ?

What I'm tring to do is hold a computer event in a local community center, There will be 30+ computers. Wondering what i can do about the power.
 
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sivoodoo

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  • #9
a typical pc and monitor uses about 100 watts of power, so times 30 would be 3000 watts, 3000/240 would pull about 16 amps, if all this was conected to a 32 amp ring main I dont see a problem. It all depends on the state of the supply in the community center and what other appliances are been used.
How many sockets are available?
Much better to conect the computers from individual sockets on the walls than run everything from one socket, spread the load evenly.
Some of the more experienced guys on here will be able to give you more information.
 
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DaveC1337

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  • #10
So how would you get more amps out of an adapter socket ? with a fuse ? would this be safe ?
 
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sivoodoo

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  • #11
you dont get more amps.
You have a fuse on the main fuse board, it may be rated at 32A or 20 A 0r 16A, if you pull more power than the main fuse is rated at it will trip or blow depending on the type of fuse.
If you were to uprate the fuse, then there would be a problem with the cable, the fuse ultimately protects the cable, most ring mains would commonly use a cable capable of supplying a set capacity say no more than 32A, if you were to stick in a 50A fuse the cable would get hot and may catch fire.
Uprating the fuse is never recomended.
Using a bigger cable would be the safe way to pull more power, but that owuld not be practicable without rewiring the comumity center.

If you are unsure I advise you to bring an electrician along to look at the electrical instalation and advise you on your best options.
Be safe.
 
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DaveC1337

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  • #12
Thanks so much for your help .. that calculations just solved the hole thing, with working it out ya know.. thanks a lot man, mean it.
 
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sivoodoo

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  • #13
No problem, always best to ask than burm to death, seriously though, get a spark down just to check, and good luck!!
 
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roboze

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  • #14
hello all,

Anyone know where i can dowload blank pat testing forms, i've searched but i'm damned if i can find any!!

Many thanks

Rob
 
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acat

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  • #15
Dont know if it helps but they are all in the back of the code of practice book from the iee that you used for the C&G examthey start at page 115





Chris
 
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roboze

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  • #16
thx for the reply,

i qualified back in 2000, just recently gone out on my own, managed to get all other test forms free off the web, cant find PAT test ones though, probably lost my COP book years ago!!
but will see if i can locate it :p
any other ideas much appreciated, i hate having to pay for things!! lol
 
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Adam W

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  • #18
You could make up your own using excel, then you can tailor them to your exact requirements. Might take a few minutes but you only have to do it once.
 
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tedgman

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  • #19
what do yours look like?

what exactly needs to be on them to satisfy insurance companies?
 
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roukel01

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  • #20
pat cert.jpgI use easy cert, and here is a screen shot of it. not bad for the money. printes good certs out
 
Hi there looking at the test cert above - how do you reconcile the individual item to the asset list when the serial number of the item is missing. Surely there's no traceability on any of the items without a serial number. Worse still (or it would be the same) if label comes off your in dead schtuck!!
 
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roukel01

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  • #22
If you want to enter a serial number do so. In the example above there wasn't many items that you couldn't recognise by the description alone and so entering a serial number is irrelavent. Plus,a well placed sticker doesn;t come off.
 
While appreciating the above comments - and not wanting to come over as the "PAT Police", surely the only way of identifying an item is by its unique asset ID which should be married to a Serial Number (either manufactures or one given by the tester). Then there's absolutley no room for error and satifies the requirements of the Code of Practice as well as insurance companies, should they do an audit. This also gives customer greater confidence in the service they're recieving. Also notice duplication of ID numbers towards bottom of list .... could get confusing.
 
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roukel01

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  • #24
so what do you do with items that have no serial number?? Leads for example. I go to an office full of computers, testing the leads seperatley, they do not have serial numbers to uniquely identify them, and if i give them a unique serial number, how am I going to attach this to the lead?, most often a sticker, which you have already pointed out come off. I think Mr Pat Testing Police Man, you are taking this a little too seriously. 98% of faults are found during the visual inspection and so, when I see a fault and I'm cutting the plug top off and placing a fail sticker on it, I'm not too worried about the serial number.

At the end of the day, nobody takes PAT testing seriously (I appologise if this is your main occupation), especially the customer, and so most electricains don't worry too much about logging each piece of equipment to such detail that we can track it on google earth, especially when some rob dogs are charging 50p an item.

Just realised, when reading your post again, that you comment on duplicate ID numbers in my example I posted, please note the different location description. This was a test on a single company with several departments (ie joinery, building, forestry etc etc) and so, each department started with ID 1.
 
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darkwood

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rouke please re-read previous post it says serial id no' given by manufacturer or person carrying out the test, personally i give all items my own id code so no confusion.
 
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roukel01

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  • #26
Not quite sure I understand, surely all appliances tested on a site is given a unique ID?

Mr Patman argued in his first post that I should be entering serial numbers in my cerificate, I am mearly arguing that this is not always necessary, or possible and that giving each appliance an ID number and description is good enough.
 
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darkwood

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All that needs to be satisfied is that the item has a durable and unique no' that can be referenced when the next inspection is due and that their is no chance of confusion this can either be the serial number of the item or a no' given by the tester.
 
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roukel01

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  • #28
So whats your point? you've just stepped into this thred asking me to re-read a post, when I have already clearly stated what you have just posted. Mr PatDude critisied my first post, stating that I have not logged serial numbers in the example cert I had posted, and that I had duplicated ID's. I have since posted that serial numbers need not be logged if an ID number is given to an appliance and if you look closely to the cert I posted, the duplicate ID's are for different department, and so can still be clearly identified, Mr Patman then said that you cannot relyon a sticker to identify an appliance and that a serial number should be logged, which I then pointed out that not all appliances have serial numbers, and hence, an ID and description of an appliance should be enough. OK, can we move on?
 
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Johno

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  • #29
I have made my own, they are similar to the one above, they just have 1 column for app ID, 1 for description/location and 1 for result (pass or fail).

I have wrote a description at the top though of exactly what every app has been tested for, ie. continuity less than 0.1 ohm, insulation more than 1 Mohm, visual, correct fuse. If need be just write any details on another sheet.


But I don't bother with serial numbers or exact current required or writing every test result for each app. It is impossible to make any money off PAT testing (unless you are doing hospitals or schools or basically being payed off the tax payer) so I have to save time on paperwork and still try and do it right, and I think/hope I do.
 

darkwood

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Sorry for the late interjection not trying to ruffle feathers but only read lead 3 posts so see your point but may i say duplicating ID tags even over different departments is a no go as items do wonder within the same building, each job and item should be unique and never repeated even if on seperate jobs and locations as this was stressed to me when i did PAT exam, this will only give cause for concern if it gets legal because someone had a accident , you need to show records etc are all independent and not confusable across the board.
Sorry to sound as though i was picking at your post not intention was trying to make a pointer to question you stated but will read further back next time :eek:
 
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