Discuss Glowing Led Chandelier. in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

dlt27

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Hi I know something similar has been posted before, but can't find it.
I have fitted a varilight eclique dimmer with a chandelier that has gu10 dimmable megaman leds. When the switch is turned off the led's continue to glow.
Am I right in thinking the problem is that induced voltage from the strappers is causing the problem. If so would a danlers resload work.(would this be connected across switch live and neutral at the fitting).
I would be grateful if anyone could explain in simpletons terms how this problem occurs and any ways of providing a solution. (I like to understand why and how something is happening rather than just be told it will work).
Thanks in advance.
 
And I found this as well Dlt... (by Markiesparkie)

To save you looking through past threads I've reposted all the various parts of my previous posts in one:

Cable Capacitance Triggers GU10 LED Lamp.
This phenomenon is caused by the final circuit cable capacitance. It is more common in conventionally wired two way and intermediate switching circuits due to the wide spread use of 3+E cable and the extra parallel capacitance that creates.
The GU10 mains LED lamp is essentially a number of LEDs driven by a constant current driver powered by a mains rectifier and smoothing capacitor.
Even though the live feed to the LED lamp is switched OFF the cable capacitance allows leakage current to flow to the lamp slowly charging the smoothing capacitor in the lamp until the potential is sufficient for the constant current driver to "fire" the LEDs. This discharges the smoothing capacitor, the constant current driver stops, the LEDs extinguish and the process of charging starts again ... if conditions are suitable this continues indefinitely.
If the charge/discharge cycle (repetition rate) is short, the LEDs appear to be 'ON' continuously, however the energy is limited so the LEDs are only barely lit. Once more lamps are added the loading on the cable capacitance is such that the individual smoothing capacitors do not reach "firing" potential.
A tungsten halogen filament lamp doesn't suffer this problem because the filament is permanently loading the cable capacitance and any acquired charge is unable to overcome the thermal inertia.
A simple solution is to permanently discharge the cable capacitance by wiring two 160K ohm, 1/4W, resistors rated at >=250V, in series across L and N on the final circuit, it is good electronics practice to do this as close to the effected lamp as possible, if this is done across the switched L and N at the lamp holder terminals it allows simple switching out of circuit (or disconnection) for testing. Do not try to use a single 330K ohm resistor because this may fail due to voltage breakdown.
If the final circuit has a large number of switched lamps it may be pragmatic to connect the series resistors between permanent L and N at a convenient point e.g. at the DB to reduce the number of resistors required, however the number of points that will require treatment will depend on how the cable capacitance is distributed on the final circuit. Additional points particularly where 3+E is used for 2 way and intermediate switching may well require additional pairs of resistors.
If this solution is implemented a notice should be placed at the DB stating which final circuits are effected and which lamp holders have been modified, why and how.
A conventional GLS filament lamp doesn't suffer this problem because the filament is permanently loading the cable capacitance and any acquired charge is unable to overcome the thermal inertia.
 
I have used 2 core strappers between switches which I thought would reduce the effect!. Could I fit the 2 resistors at the fitting between SW L and neutral?. I always worry about doing things that aren't the norm. Ie fitting resistors as I don't fully understand the science or theory behind it.
 
Sorry Dlt,

I am just regurgitating the information that I have found and only have a basic understanding of the use of resistors and would not myself do it (due to lack of understanding).

One of the experienced chaps will explain the use of resistors and where to place them I'm sure.
 
nothing complicated about the resistors. just apply ohms law. 230/(320 x 1000) will give you the current through the resistors. very small. and the reason for using 2 in series is to reduce the voltage across each.
 

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