Discuss Good replacement for a night storage heater? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

HappyHippyDad

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Hello all...

I am about to visit a property that has night storage heaters in it. The customer states they have one heater that is not working and they want it replaced. I have said that it may be fixable but they want a new one.

I have not installed any storage heaters before and wondered if you guys had any particular heaters (that store heat) that you would recommend as there are quite a few that states they are the best? It will need to be a storage heater as it is on a seperate CU on economy 7.

Cheers chaps.

ps.. Continuing to look for new avatar.
pps.. decided against the former picture Richard but thanks for sending :smile5:
 
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Try the internal thermal reset and test the elements before replacement. They are not cheap to replace as a whole unit, although Dimplex would be my brand of choice.
 
How many elements are there? I would be surprised if more than 1 had failed at the same time!

Pay close attention to the incoming terminals - seen many which have over heated, and failed.
 
Try the internal thermal reset and test the elements before replacement. They are not cheap to replace as a whole unit, although Dimplex would be my brand of choice.

Thanks Andy,

If it is just the input cutout then I'll reset, also I'll have a quick test of the thermal fuse link.



How many elements are there? I would be surprised if more than 1 had failed at the same time!

Pay close attention to the incoming terminals - seen many which have over heated, and failed.

Not sure how many elements Murdoch, at least 3 probably 4 as it's large, so I doubt its the elements. I will check the terminals though.

Would anyone be able to explain where the input charge control thermostat is likely to be and how to test if that is faulty as if the other bits check out fine then this may be the problem?
 
The input charge controller is basically a set of points along with a reset usually ,on auto models theres also a capillary stat linked into it and that sits at the rear down the bottom , so depends what type and how old the model is , if you post a picture I can tell you what part you want from spares direct , you want to ascertain what the model is and if its Dimplex there will be a set of numbers on the top left hand side .
What you need to do is take a continuity reading at the input with the DP switch in the off position if its a 4 element model you should get around 18 to 19 ohms if you get not continuity you can simply follow the live up to the input controller and check each side of the contacts with the input turned up high, chances are its the input controller and thats quite common and I have replaced loads of them , if its an element there would have been some heat coming out of the heater..

If they want to replace the heater there is a table to work out the sizing of the heater on the dimples website , I would use that rather than going on the size of the heater as you should ensure the heater is properly sized for the room , Dimplex is you're best bet though although slightly cheaper versions made by dimples under other names are available make sure its an auto model you install though i.e. XLSN not the XLS, the 3 models are XLS12N , XLS18N, XLS24N , ( 2 , 3 or 4 elements)
 
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Some older models also have a thermal fuse Link..

And the major reason they go is either theres lads of dust and muck in the heater or people putting clothes over the heater, that can either be the rest type or a link that needs replacing , again can be checked when doing the continuity test ....
 
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Its funny how pub members get all the help they need but if an outsider asks the same question all he gets is are you qualifed or get qualified electrician or similar. Double standards, just saying. Btw not having a dig a op.
 
Its funny how pub members get all the help they need but if an outsider asks the same question all he gets is are you qualifed or get qualified electrician or similar. Double standards, just saying. Btw not having a dig a op.

Hum.... not sure about that.

The OP has a good track record of posting questions, offering possible answers, ANSWERING questions and giving thanks for input. Lots of people fail on almost ALL these points.
 
Its funny how pub members get all the help they need but if an outsider asks the same question all he gets is are you qualifed or get qualified electrician or similar. Double standards, just saying. Btw not having a dig a op.


Depending on who you are , you don't always get thanked for help either , I am fast coming to the conclusion of why should I bother anymore It's a nice little club on here, oh what the hell I can't be bothered anymore Goodbye
 
Depending on the circumstances and the availabilitly of a suitable 24 hour supply nearby I would be recommending fitting a Quantum. (Although it would be more expensive to buy out right than the equivalent normal storage heater). They are more economical and generally nicer to look at.
 
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Its funny how pub members get all the help they need but if an outsider asks the same question all he gets is are you qualifed or get qualified electrician or similar. Double standards, just saying. Btw not having a dig a op.

Personally I tend to answer the question on its individual merits, not even noticing the name of the OP most of the time. Sensible questions get sensible answers, other questions don't
The only exception being the trainee section where every question gets a sensible newer from me.
 
Hello all...

I am about to visit a property that has night storage heaters in it. The customer states they have one heater that is not working and they want it replaced. I have said that it may be fixable but they want a new one.

I have not installed any storage heaters before and wondered if you guys had any particular heaters (that store heat) that you would recommend as there are quite a few that states they are the best? It will need to be a storage heater as it is on a seperate CU on economy 7.

Cheers chaps.

ps.. Continuing to look for new avatar.
pps.. decided against the former picture Richard but thanks for sending :smile5:

Storage heaters haven't changed in many many years, you'd almost certainly be fitting an identical unit to the one you remove. The circuit is very very simple and you should be able to work it out by tracing the wiring, also a Google search will turn up diagrams and pictures of spare parts which will guide you.

You'll need a Hoover to clean the fluff and crap out of it whilst youv got the lid off.
If you have to work on one which does work then get them to switch it off the day before otherwise it'll be too hot to touch inside.

If it's a dimplex one the screws you need to remove to get the cover off are on the bottom of the unit, one either side with a hexagon head (10mm I think) that you'll want a spanner for then the cover pulls forwards at the bottom and lift off. (I mention this as it took me far too long to work it out once)
 
I'd also check the connections and condition of the DP switch as I've seen them overheat and burn out quite a few times. Generally you'd get the pungent 'fishy' smell with that problem though.
 
Its funny how pub members get all the help they need but if an outsider asks the same question all he gets is are you qualifed or get qualified electrician or similar. Double standards, just saying. Btw not having a dig a op.
Not really "funny" - a pub member is likely to have become a pub member because they have made valuable contributions to the forum, and logically deserve help in return. They're also more likely to accept help instead of accusing everyone of elitism or snobbery or whatever, and less likely to ask a question then disappear never to be seen again after several members have put themselves out to suggest solutions.

If you think 'outsiders' should be getting more help there's nothing stopping you from helping them, and nothing to say that helping them has to be someone else's responsibility.
 

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