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Hi,

I have a set of 4 GU10 recessed light fittings with halogen bulbs controlled by a single dimmer switch. The circuit was installed about 5 years ago and has worked fine. This morning 2 of the bulbs weren't working when switched on. I replaced one of the bulbs with a new one and for a moment the light worked then went out. I replaced the other 'failed' bulb in the other socket but again it didn't work (not even for a moment). It's possible that both bulbs failed at the same time but it seems unlikely that both of the new replacement Philips halogen bulbs would also be faulty. The other 2 lights are fine as several other circuits in various room containing up to 8 recessed halogen lamps.

I should be grateful for any advice offered.

Thank you.

Nick
 
Thank you for your replies. I have taken one of the working bulbs from another holder and it didn't work in either of the two 'dead' holders. I think I can rule about a poor connection between the holder and the lamp. I was surprised that 2 lamps out of the 4 seemed to have failed but I suppose it's not unknown. How can I test the connection or determine whether or not the lamp holder are heat damaged. Would a damaged holder cause the next in the circuit not to function? I've not used a multimeter before but can isolate the circuit at the fuse box and take a look. Are the signs that it's heat damaged clear to see,

Thank you again everyone.

Nick
 
bad connections at one of the failed fittings (or maybe the one before).. as the lights will be daisy chained, this will affect any other fittings downstream of the fault.
 
Would be worth getting a sparky in to give the lighting circuit a proper check. You can be certain then that any defective connections/cables/fittings are spotted and won't cause future issues - bad connections cause overheating and possibly fire, although I don't want to sound like I'm scare-mongering here.

I would also ask about changing to LED lamps - the halogen GU10s you are using take a huge amount of power and also generate a large amount of heat. The savings in electricity will go a long way to pay for the work being done.

If you do swap to LED lamps (or fittings) then make sure the dimmer you use is compatible with them though.
 
In which room are the lamps located in and has any work been done in the vicinity the day before they failed.

If the lights are upstairs and you have a loft have you ever had an issue with squirrels or rodents in the past?
 
Thank you again for all your contributions.

Point taken about LEDs. I'm gradually replacing dead halogens with Philips LEDs. I think it is most likely a poor connection with the consequent daisy-chain effect. My flat is on the top floor of a 4-floor block. There's a flat roof above me and the minimal space between it and my ceiling is taken up with internal insulation so unlikely to be rodents in this case. At least, I hope that's the case.

I don't think the fault is due to work being carried out elsewhere; I certainly haven't noticed any work on the roof. I'm just a little surprised that 5+ years after the circuit was installed the wiring has developed a fault but reading through your comments this seems the most likely explanation.

It was really good of you all to help with this.

My thanks and best wishes.

Nick
 
Could be heat thats affected the lamp holders as not much of a void in the ceiling and insulation added, hopefully there are fire hoods in place.

Where in London are you located?
 
Hi,

Sorry SWD, I missed your post. I'm in NW London but determined, at least for the moment, to have a bash at rectifying a, hopefully, straightforward problem with the help of this forum.

However, I was also wondering if there was a heat-related issue here; I've taken the connections down from the ceiling space and can't see any signs that heat is the cause. Of course, it's not possible to see the internal lamp holder terminals so replacing the 2 affected holders might be the starting point in the elimination process. The 2 images below are of one of the dud lights. Is there any way I can rule out heat damage in order to look elsewhere for the solution.

Regards,

Nick

GU10 lighting circuit problem GU10 (a) - EletriciansForums.net GU10 lighting circuit problem GU10 (b) - EletriciansForums.net
 
a voltstick would be the first test. then, if it lights up, a voltmeter or approve tester across L-N(with switch in ON position). if you have 230 (ish)V, then it's the lamp.

assuming they are 230V fittings, and that cable clamp should be over the outer grey sheath, not the brown/blue conductor insulation.
 
Ah, no meter. That's why I was thinking I'd have to replace 2 blocks and holders. Many thanks.
If you need a hand or a meter then let me know as if you are close to me I can pop around and test them for you, I am talking about if you are close to the Harrow Road/Kensal Green area.

I did a job for my sons mate are they the horrible small lamps?
 
These fittings are not made off correctly the gray sheath should be inside the enclosure and what has happened to the CPC (earth) I think somewhere along the circuit a cable has come out not made in the fitting (loose) or is broken from the pressure of the clamp. I would see if you have power at the fittings first before you conclude it is the lamp holder.
 

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