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bwaj11

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hi all,

Please help me work out whether my electrician has done a decent job or not.

We're doing a home renovation and he has installed a mains isolator in the kitchen next to the main fuse, because we have put a new consumer unit in the utility area on the other side of the room.

The electrician originally said there'd be just an isolator switch, which could be hidden behind a plant (or something like that). But in the end he's left us with all the ugly paraphernalia you see in the picture attached, and it's visible right above our kitchen island. Is this really necessary? Any reason why we couldn't put some of it below the island counter? (we have space for it)

Has my electrician done a bad job? IMG-7875x - EletriciansForums.net
 
That looks a bit special!

For a start that loose earth cable should almost certainly be connected.

Is this quite near to you electricity meter? Could you post a picture of this?

Can you estimate the length of the cable from that isolator to the new consumer unit? The key bit of information here is whether the cable length is more or less than 3 metres.

Is the new CU the only one or is it additional to another one?

Is the cable they have used to feed to CU from this isolator visible at any point? I mean the whole cable with its sheath not just the weirdly sleeved cores we can see in your picture?
 
hi davesparks

What you see in the pic is on the other side of my rear well from the meter, which is in an external box facing the garden. So yes, it is very near the meter. (Don't have a pic at the mo, sorry.)

The length of cable from the isolator to the new consumer unit is definitely more than 3 metres. (I'm not sure of the exact route but the distance is >3m as the crow flies). What's the significance of that?

The new CU is the only one, yes.

The cable is a thick black beast (3-4cm diameter) - it's visible where it comes out below the metal box in the pic and where it rises into the CU.

By the way, what is the purpose of that metal box?
 
So it looks like you have had to situate your consumer unit a fair distance from your metering equipment?

The max length of the standard cables from your meter to The consumer unit is 3m. Your electrician has correctly said that the meter tails need mechanical protection if they are to run through the fabric of the house and the thick black cable is known as armoured. The metal box is more than likely where a gland will have been fitted to terminate this armoured cable.

So far so good. however in my opinion, the isolator that has been fitted is not a good choice. As if the consumer unit is further than 3m, then a further protective device should be fitted. That isolated is just a switch and offers no protection. The DNO will provide a fuse/protective device to protect their equipment. You need to provide over current protection as close to their equipment as possible. So a better choice than an isolator would have been a single pole and neutral switch fuse. This would provide the cable run from the meter to the consumer unit with protection that is part of your installation.

the fact that this is visible inside your kitchen is obviously something that needs sorting out as I wouldn’t be happy with that on my worktop from a safety point of view or an aesthetic one.

If I were to do the job and there was nowhere to position an isolator OCPD inside. Why not provide a second meter cupboard out side with the switch fuse and armoured termination in there and run the armoured to where it needs to go? Metering equipment and the associated terminations are never that good looking so best to hide them away! an extra expense, but a lot better than what you have there.
 
Hi - as above really. Mr Electrician needs to address that green yellow cable floating about. Aesthetically, all of that should be outside. Then there’s the no fuse issue which will just make it bigger when added. I’d get it redone outside as it’s never going to look any better, sorry.
 
I would not be at all surprised if the metal adaptable box is not earthed. The attempt to sleeve those conductors is poor and probably pointless as the sleeving used will offer little or no mechanical protection.
 
hi davesparks

What you see in the pic is on the other side of my rear well from the meter, which is in an external box facing the garden. So yes, it is very near the meter. (Don't have a pic at the mo, sorry.)

The length of cable from the isolator to the new consumer unit is definitely more than 3 metres. (I'm not sure of the exact route but the distance is >3m as the crow flies). What's the significance of that?

The new CU is the only one, yes.

The cable is a thick black beast (3-4cm diameter) - it's visible where it comes out below the metal box in the pic and where it rises into the CU.

By the way, what is the purpose of that metal box?

3m is the maximum length of cable that is allowed to be protected by the electricity suppliers fuse. This means that you must normally have your own protective device, either fuse or circuit breaker, installed within 3m of the meter.
So where you have that isolator you would normally have what is called a switchfuse, this is a device which incorporates an isolator and a fuse.
I say normally as if you have written permission from the electricity supplier you can in theory have a much longer length of cable protected by their fuse, but they are very unlikely to give such permission.

That is likely to be armoured (SWA) cable if it is that large and has a black sheath.

The metal box is there, I assume, to allow the armoured cable to be correctly terminated using a brass SWA cable gland. The brass SWA cable gland should firmly attached to the metal box and then metal box and cable gland connected to earth.
This connects the steel armour of the cable to earth which is essential for safety.
 
that lot should have been fitted in the outside meter box. as it is, the only option is to build a box round it (with a door for access).
 
At a guess he's used SWA, terminated into the adaptable box, meaning the conductors need to have some form of mechanical protection around them.

As others have mentioned there should be some form of over-current protection for the cable, TBH that could be very easily remedied using the existing set up.

Access is needed to this equipment for maintenance, repairs etc so could be boxed in with an access hatch.

Not the prettiest work but simple enough to improve.

Do you have a photo of the meter box as this could possibly be moved into there?

Also could you post a picture of your consumer unit and the cable entry into it?
 
Thanks everyone for the fantastic ideas and insights. Really helpful. Sounds like an upgrade of some sort is definitely required.

As requested, here are pics of the black cable entering into the CU, and of the rather grotty external meter box. Could all the things on the kitchen wall be squeezed in there?

Has my electrician done a bad job? IMG-7881 (1) - EletriciansForums.net
Has my electrician done a bad job? IMG-7882 fuse - EletriciansForums.net
 
No it would not have fitted in there. They could however have put another meter style enclosure adjacent to it. The cable requires some kind of circuit protection (fusing) regardless.
 
Well it's not the best work in the world but nothing looks particularly wrong at the CU.

No the switchgear can't go in the meter box, there isn't space for a start.

That earth wire in the meter box also doesn't appear to be connected, is the electrician due to come back and do some more work or have they finished?

Have you received a certificate for the work yet?
 
An earth comes through the wall in the first pic with the supply conductors but doesn't seem apparent in the meter enclosure.
 
Thank westward10, davesparks, Vortigern.
The electrician is due back this week to finalise things and test. I haven't got a certificate for the work yet.
 
The Cu in side looks fairly neat and tidy (from the outside)
I’d have a word with your electrician. From the photos you’ve sent, I’d still say a second meter enclosure outside would be the neatest solution. Let him know that you’re not happy with the installation as it stands, definitely mention the fact you need a switch fuse. I Would be interested to see any certificates that have been issued
 
plenty room in the meter box. get DNO to replace head with something not out of the 50's, move meter to left, fit SW/F.
 

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