Discuss HAUS Dishwasher (WQP12-9250G) Power Switch Replacement in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hello all. I really hope this is the right place for something like this as I would love some assistance.

Long story short: I have a dishwasher with a faulty power switch that needed a little pressure to keep it working right. Found a compatible part and ordered it. It has arrived and I was going to swap it out but found that even though it is a compatible component that the pins are numbered differently and it's thrown me off guard.

I have already tried googling this as thoroughly as possible but not found answers to my questions, so I'm humbly asking you fine people here.

The attached image "Wires.jpg" shows the configuration of the wires for the power switch - 4 wires (red, black, blue and white)

Attached image "Side View.jpg" shows the old switch on the left beside the new switch on the right.

Attached image "Pin number view.jpg" shows the pins and the number for each (old switch on the left, new switch on the right)

The problem that I've run int is that I was going to note the configuration of the current wires and the pins, and then swap the switch and connect them as I found them to the replacement switch. I came to a stop when I found that the pins on the underside of the switches were numbered in a different order, so I hesitated with connecting them up.

I can't remember which numbered pin had which colour of wire, but I did note that Top-left was RED, Top-right was BLACK, Bottom-left was BLUE and Bottom-right was WHITE.

The old switch appears to be CANAL PS-5.
New switch appears to be NOVA KAN-L5

I know I may be going way far out with making sure things are safe and correct, but I really could do with some help knowing which wire connects where on the replacement switch.

Again, I hope this is the correct place for this and I've tried to give as much information as I can. A big big thank you to you all in advance.Wires.jpg Side view.jpg Pin number view.jpg Wires.jpg Side view.jpg Pin number view.jpg
 
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telectrix

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it's a double pole switch. do you have instructions with it?

i would say brown to 4, black to 3, blue to 2, white to 1. but that's an educated guess. it right it will work. if wrong it will blow fuse.
 
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  • #3
it's a double pole switch. do you have instructions with it?

i would say brown to 4, black to 3, blue to 2, white to 1. but that's an educated guess. it right it will work. if wrong it will blow fuse.
No instructions came with the switch.
I've tried to find instructions for the switches to see what they look like inside, but not found anything that helps other than schematics of the exterior for one that shows sizes, not internals.

I've also tried to find details of the power switch wiring for the Dishwasher via the model number (WQP12-9250G) but found nothing other than a digital version of the general manual.
 

telectrix

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No instructions came with the switch.
I've tried to find instructions for the switches to see what they look like inside, but not found anything that helps other than schematics of the exterior for one that shows sizes, not internals.

I've also tried to find details of the power switch wiring for the Dishwasher via the model number (WQP12-9250G) but found nothing other than a digital version of the general manual.
do you posssess a multimeter or continuity tester?
 
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  • #6
I've looked at that and it looks very promising. My only concern is that it seems to be for a slightly different model and uses just two of the 4 available wires. big thanks for it though, it's putting me on the right track.

Unfortunately I do not have access to a multimeter or continuity test.
 

telectrix

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whereabouts you located. one of us may be close. half an hour to sort that. should not cost more than £30.
 
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  • #8
whereabouts you located. one of us may be close. half an hour to sort that. should not cost more than £30.
I have to confess that you are all incredible with an offer like that, and I thank you so very much.

I have to confess that I'm 1 part not totally comfortable, 99 parts wanting to conquer this and understand it. Broken down to it's simplistic parts, it's just knowing the configuration of the switch and how the wires are supposed to be wired to it according to it's 4-wire design - it's this that has thrown me and what I was hoping the members here could help me figure out.
 
I have to confess that you are all incredible with an offer like that, and I thank you so very much.

I have to confess that I'm 1 part not totally comfortable, 99 parts wanting to conquer this and understand it. Broken down to it's simplistic parts, it's just knowing the configuration of the switch and how the wires are supposed to be wired to it according to it's 4-wire design - it's this that has thrown me and what I was hoping the members here could help me figure out.
Two confessions in one post-there's a few Hail Marys coming your way :)

A continuity tester needn't be expensive, have a look on eBay for a cheap multimeter, or this from Screwfix:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas8...MI0fuGpL_p4AIVrr_tCh03pQ10EAQYBCABEgKL7PD_BwE

Or you could even make your own with a battery, lamp and a couple of wires.
 
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  • #10
OK, so I built a little jig to serve as a make-shift continuity tester.
2 AA batteries (1.5v each) and.... a little DC motor I had from an old computer tear down for repairs (don't judge me lol)
Tested the jig and the motor spun, so far so good and it does the job required.

I tested the NEW SWITCH first as I knew it _should_ work fine. "Open" position - there was no life from any pin configuration I tested (not needed I know, but I'm the sort of person that tests everything for assurance).
"Closed" position - Only pins 1 & 2 completed the circuit. Same applies for pins 3 & 4.

Testing the OLD SWITCH I found that again, only pins 1 & 2 completed the circuit. Same again for pins 3 & 4. "open" position gave no life for any configuration.
As a bonus, I also confirmed that I had correctly identified this as being the faulty part as I needed to apply pressure to the button to complete the circuit.

So, now that I have identified which pins complete the circuit when closed, it looks as though the connection for the 4 wires should be as follows:

RED & BLACK
BLUE & WHITE

It shouldn't matter if it's Red(1) & Black(2) / Blue(3) & White(4) or Blue(1) & White(2) / Red(3) & Black(4) as the circuit closes those pairs regardless?

I definitely asked in the right place as scrolling up and re-reading, you were all right lol

Sorry for the overly academic approach to ensuring I have a 100% grasp on the ins and outs of something that should be trivial. I didn't feel like blowing anything up today and wanted to jump on the opportunity to expand my understanding of this.
 
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  • #11
I know sometimes people will get their solution and then not be heard from again, so just posting a brief follow up.

SUCCESS!

New switch installed and working fine.
Big thanks to everybody who gave feedback and helped.

I hope that this thread helps anybody else that encounters a similar issue.
Thank you all once again.
 

DPG

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Nice one, thanks for letting us know. Good use of an improvised continuity tester!
 
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