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Hi,
I'd like some help please on installing a zanussi
oven.
The oven manual states "Connection should be via an
Oven Control Circuit. Min size cable 2.5 mm2. Cable
PVC twin & earth. Fuse 15 A min 20 A max.
The total load rating of the oven is 2.48 Kw."
The label on the side of the oven states Max power is
2 790 Kw.
I checked the circuit breaker for the cooker in the
consumer unit and it is a 32 Amp. The old oven is
wired through 13a fused spur socket on the wall, but
uses a 1.5 mm2 cable.
To instal the new oven should I just replace the
1.5 mm2 cable with 2.5 mm2 wired through the 13 a
fused spur socket ?
Thanks
 
Sounds like the oven only uses about the same as a kettle, so 2.5mm should be fine. It'll certainly be an improvement on 1.5mm, that is well below spec! It's the size of cable used for lighting.
 
It'll certainly be an improvement on 1.5mm, that is well below spec! It's the size of cable used for lighting.

The current carrying capacity of 1.5mm flex is actually sufficient for this load. Immersion heaters are often 3KW and often wired in 1.5mm from the flex outlet plate to the heater.

Saying all that though there are people here who prefer to use 2.5mm, and I’d be reluctant to use 1.5mm in this case just because of those manufacturing instructions.

I have wired ovens of this size on a a 20amp MCB using 2.5mm up to a flex outlet or socket, with the last bit of flex to the oven being 1.5mm. It’s compliant, but I prefer to see it confirmed in the instructions.
 
The new Zanussi ovens use what at first seems a very low current. did one recently and threw me when it said 2.5mm you have in back of your mind 6mm. i had to install a new circuit so future proofed it with 6mm to the connection plate then 2.5mm to actual cooker. chances are it also has those horrid torx screws for the cable connection. if you dont have any you might manage it with allen keys.
 
i find that sidecutters can cope with the torx screws. 1 point in the middle hole and the other on the outside, bit of a squeeze and turn. also works on allen screws and those pesky foreign screws that don't fit any size of driver known.
 
Hi - As Hasel has asked above - if no plug on it from factory and instruction states 15A fuse minimum then I'd not be fitting a 13A plug or using a 13A fused connection unit, just saying :) .
 
Just thought. The manual states Fuse rating as 15 A min, 20 A max. However, I'll be connecting the 2.5mm cable from the oven to a 13a fused spur socket on the wall. Do I need to change the fuse in this
socket ?
 
instead of a fused spur, use a 20A D/P switch ( with neon?). cable to the cooker in 2.5mm. change breaker in board to a 20A ( if necessary, get a spark in for little cost. then you'd have the circuit checked and tested for safety. I'd cost the job at <ÂŁ100 inc. parts).
 
The manual says '2.5 tw&e', so 1.5mm flexible would be comparable as Marcus said, ditch the 13A FCU as Telectrix said, and if the original supply is 32A (aka 6mm cable) leave as is as Wilko said. :)
 
Looked up the current carrying capacity for 1.5mm cable, seems it would carry 20 amps, plenty for a 3kw cooker. I thought I read that 1.5mm could only carry 11 amps maximum but I was mistaken.
 
Looked up the current carrying capacity for 1.5mm cable, seems it would carry 20 amps, plenty for a 3kw cooker. I thought I read that 1.5mm could only carry 11 amps maximum but I was mistaken.
think 1.5mm is 19A but only if ref.method c. if in insulation, the ccc would be less.
 
Thank you all for your advice which has been very helpful.
I've selected various snippets of guidance and my plan
is as follows :
a) Replace the 1.5 mm power cable with a 2.5 mm one as was
agreed by the majority.
b) Replace the 13a fused spur socket for a 20A D/P switch with
neon (as suggested by telectrix)
c) Keep the circuit breaker for the cooker in the consumer unit
as it is - 32 Amp.

I chose the 2.5 mm cable as Marcus stated it was best to follow
'those manufacturing instructions'. The 20A D/P switch would
also satisfy those 'those manufacturing instructions'. i.e 20 A max.
There is also an electric hob on the cooker circuit, max 6, so
I decided not to change the 32 amp circuit breaker in the consumer unit.

Thanks again for your help.
 
@Midwest is now renamed Jensen interceptor because he is made up of spare parts!
The manual says '2.5 tw&e', so 1.5mm flexible would be comparable as Marcus said, ditch the 13A FCU as Telectrix said, and if the original supply is 32A (aka 6mm cable) leave as is as Wilko said. :)
Those over 45 will get that!
 

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