Discuss Help with replacing this discontinued Dimplex Programmer? in the Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi Karl
As I suggested in post #12, I believe the 'pilot wire' carries an encoded signal. I don't believe it's just zero or 230v depending on whether the heater should be on or not. But I have been unable to find any explanation of the pilot wire signalling protocol, so I can't back up this hunch!
Personally I don't think you can use a current programmer to activate the old Dimplex units as originally intended, but I'd be happy to be proved wrong.
Ok thanks for your help!
 
Doesn't look like RS or Farnell stock that Tx. There's a couple on Ebay. Cheapest is £11.99 & 99p P&P. No doubt there's an equivalent by a different make. I'll have a look. I was expecting a swollen or exploded cap.
 
Doesn't look like RS or Farnell stock that Tx. There's a couple on Ebay. Cheapest is £11.99 & 99p P&P. No doubt there's an equivalent by a different make. I'll have a look. I was expecting a swollen or exploded cap.
That transformer claims to be "short circuit proof"!
Something else might be causing the problem?
Resistor bottom left of picture, half illuminated, looks like its been running warm, but again that may still be OK.
If the date code label means 2015, maybe slightly early for cap problems?
 
My wife claims to be attractive but.....?
I've seen caps younger than that die but usually when in a hot enclosure. That board doesn't look like it's been hot. It would be nice to get hold of one to have a probe about.
 
I'd definitely test the transformer before attempting to replace it, in case the defect is simply cosmetic. As mentioned the 2 electrolytics are also well worth testing. It's nice to see a real transformer instead of a tacky capacitive dropper.
 
Hi, what is best to replace the old dimplex programmer, to manage how water timings?The heaters in the rooms can be switched on/ off manually so dont need to program these.
 

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