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Evening All another odd question (I love my customers)

There’s no 10mm or 6mm cable in their kitchen, apparently when it was wired there were all 13amp eco appliances. Anyway a new couple have bought it and want a 5 ring hob installed but the kitchen is done to a high standard so they don’t want trunking or walls chased (kitchen in single story extension. The board and job location are on the outside wall. Can I run a 6/10 mom cable through the wall outside the back inside for for the hob connections obv the cable would be aremourd or SY. Is this doable or is it a case of no can do
 
Evening All another odd question (I love my customers)

There’s no 10mm or 6mm cable in their kitchen, apparently when it was wired there were all 13amp eco appliances. Anyway a new couple have bought it and want a 5 ring hob installed but the kitchen is done to a high standard so they don’t want trunking or walls chased (kitchen in single story extension. The board and job location are on the outside wall. Can I run a 6/10 mom cable through the wall outside the back inside for for the hob connections obv the cable would be aremourd or SY. Is this doable or is it a case of no can do
 
Hi, I have read many of the replies and think many of the so-called electricians are useless tradesmen. The cable should go down the cavity wall of the extension. This is the easiest and best means of getting the cable down to the outlet switch. If you need to, you padsaw a hole in the plasterboard above the switch and or in the ceiling, keeping the cutouts to place back in position after fishing the cable down. A couple of battens fixed back in the holes allows you to screw the cutout boards back in and a little filling plaster finishes it off.
 
As above, cables didn't ought to be in cavities. For several reasons including bridging and also the fact that nobody knows they are in there so may drill straight through them.
 
Hi, I have read many of the replies and think many of the so-called electricians are useless tradesmen. The cable should go down the cavity wall of the extension. This is the easiest and best means of getting the cable down to the outlet switch. If you need to, you padsaw a hole in the plasterboard above the switch and or in the ceiling, keeping the cutouts to place back in position after fishing the cable down. A couple of battens fixed back in the holes allows you to screw the cutout boards back in and a little filling plaster finishes it off.
8 posts in 7 years and you want to run cables in cavities. maybe you need to get out more.
 
The plumber I was working with the other day on a refurb, went through a concentric feed whilst coring a hole through a wall for an outside tap! He bridged the live and neutral with the core drill and made the lights flicker but didn’t cut the feed.
Whilst he was feeling silly for doing it I made the most of the remaining power to finish my chases for my first fix, then we turned it off just in case!
I was laughing inside but got all my work done!
 
Evening All another odd question (I love my customers)

There’s no 10mm or 6mm cable in their kitchen, apparently when it was wired there were all 13amp eco appliances. Anyway a new couple have bought it and want a 5 ring hob installed but the kitchen is done to a high standard so they don’t want trunking or walls chased (kitchen in single story extension. The board and job location are on the outside wall. Can I run a 6/10 mom cable through the wall outside the back inside for for the hob connections obv the cable would be aremourd or SY. Is this doable or is it a case of no can do
Not sure why everyone seems to have found this so difficult to understand. I have a similar issue. We're moving our kitchen and running a 20amp cable to our new hob means taking up a wooden floor which would be very expensive to replace. It could easily go via the ceiling (no upstairs carpets yet), down the outside wall and in again just behind the hob. Did you find an acceptable solution?
 
Not sure why everyone seems to have found this so difficult to understand. I have a similar issue. We're moving our kitchen and running a 20amp cable to our new hob means taking up a wooden floor which would be very expensive to replace. It could easily go via the ceiling (no upstairs carpets yet), down the outside wall and in again just behind the hob. Did you find an acceptable solution?
SWA is no different to normal cable it's just mechanically protected, it's run from CU's to the inside of sheds all the time. Don't think people had a hard time, think the OP was just a silly question.
 
What’s on the outside wall, Scott? I.e. how visible would cabling or conduit be? Can it be hidden with trellace etc?
My thoughts too ?. Nothing against running inside, out and in again. Install according to regs re rating and appropriate protection from outside influences. How about a nice bit of galve conduit? ? Give the customer a load more choices on the outside aesthetics. ?
 
Not sure why everyone seems to have found this so difficult to understand. I have a similar issue. We're moving our kitchen and running a 20amp cable to our new hob means taking up a wooden floor which would be very expensive to replace. It could easily go via the ceiling (no upstairs carpets yet), down the outside wall and in again just behind the hob. Did you find an acceptable solution?

Hob cable outside then in MTG-ThreadNecromancer_3198 - EletriciansForums.net
 

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