Hoover Tumble Dryer has no power

[Brickinnit]

Dear All,

Hope you can help a little Our tumble dryer (Hoover Dynamic Next 8kg) suddenly decided to have no power whatsoever (no lights, no anything). Checked the plug (fuse as well), socket, power supply and all seems fine so something seems amiss in the dryer itself. Checked the door switch and this seems OK (no continuity when door is open but continuity when closed). There also seems to be a mains filter (I think that's what it is) right where the power lead comes into the tumble dryer. I isolated this part and I can't seem to trigger any continuity - could this be the issue (is it meant to have continuity) or would a fault in this part not cause the dryer to lose power? Please see picture attached.

Haven't looked at the start switch yet/thermal fuse but just wanted to see if the filter could be the issue.

Thanks Folks

 

[telectrix]

any fuses on the control panel? find panel and see if you have L & N in, then go from there.

 

[Brickinnit]

any fuses on the control panel? find panel and see if you have L & N in, then go from there.

Thanks for the reply

So just checking - changing the filter won't help with the power issue (think it's only £6 or so for a new RFI/EMI filter)?

Regarding the control panel, see attached picture. Do have L and N going in (you can see on left hand side with the brown and blue) but can't see any obvious fuses although I'm pretty rubbish at this

Thanks again

 

[cxyoung]

Hello,

I have exactly the same issue :-(

i was wondering if you could give me some pointers to diagnose the issue i have with my Hoover Tumble Dryer so that i can then purchase the spares.

I have a Hoover DMC D1013B-80 31100720 that will not power on. There is power getting to the PCB ( i have tested with a volt detector pen) however the LED display does not light up and the programmes will not start. I have tested the microswitch in the 12 position switch housing and bypassed the suppressor but nothing works.

I am reluctant to purchase a new PCB as that may not be the problem and they are quite expensive.

Any help would really be appreciated.

 

[James]

Check the thermal fuse, most it will be near the heating element with 2 wires coming off it

 

[cxyoung]

Check the thermal fuse, most it will be near the heating element with 2 wires coming off it

Hi James,

Thank you very much for the reply however, unfortunately the fuse passed and there is connectivity.

i did test the resistors on the PCB and this one seem to be dead, when i bypass it the dryer powers on

How do i identify what replacement to buy please?

 

[brianmoooore]

At first sight, it looks like a simple 1000 ohm resistor, but if it has failed without appearing to be burnt, then it is probably a special safety resistor - a sort of combined fuse and resistor.
This would need to replaced with one of the exact same specification.

 

[cxyoung]

At first sight, it looks like a simple 1000 ohm resistor, but if it has failed without appearing to be burnt, then it is probably a special safety resistor - a sort of combined fuse and resistor.
This would need to replaced with one of the exact same specification.

thanks for info, will do some research on that...

 

[DPG]

Word of advice - don't try shorting resistors out to see what happens. You are likely to do more damage. Always measure them with an ohmeter (with the power off) instead.

Good luck though, let us know how you get on.

 

[cxyoung]

Word of advice - don't try shorting resistors out to see what happens. You are likely to do more damage. Always measure them with an ohmeter (with the power off) instead.

Good luck though, let us know how you get on.

thanks for the info! the resistor came up with no reading which is why i bypassed it to see if the board would come to life... its worth an eBay purchase to see if i can avoid getting a replacement PCB

 

[brianmoooore]

I had a faulty washing machine about 4 years ago. I identified a failed safety resistor and was aware that there would be other failed components to cause its demise.
I noted any writing on the circuit board that could be a part number for the whole board, and typed these into Google.
Up came a pic of the exact same circuit board, with red arrows pointing at six components, alongside a pic. of a small plastic bag containing these components with a price of a few dollars.
All the writing on this website was in Chinese, but Google translate provided enough for me to be able to place an order, which turned up about three weeks later, and provided a complete cure after fitting the components in the bag..

 

[cxyoung]

I managed to finally find a resistor on eBay at a huge price of £2.50 that matched and after soldiering onto the board the device now works!

Thank you all for support and advice.

 

[brianmoooore]

Are you sure it's a safety resitor?

 

[cxyoung]

Are you sure it's a safety resitor?

no i am not, i found it incredibly difficult to find a replacement one; i contacts a number of electronic component suppliers including some on eBay including CPC and RS who were unable to help.

I finally found the closet match - MCKNP02WJ0102A19 Multicomp Resistor , Wirewound , 1K , 5% , 2W | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134381182961

 

[brianmoooore]

Mmmm, no wonder they offer free postage. I'd pay 8p each for those from CPC.
That is NOT a safety resistor, but I'm not certain that the original was either. It's just that 'ordinary' resistors don't normally fail without reason, and when they do , they tend to shoe signs of heat damage.
The current name for what I've called a 'safety resistor' appears to be 'fusible resistor', and CPC do offer two different ones, in 1/4W and 1/2W flavours.
What is the length and diameter of the failed one? It'll give an idea of the power rating.