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Hi, we need some advice on our scenario with regards to our rewire plan.

I will get this out of the way first... We are planning to put the house up for sale. I know people will say let the new buyer do the stuff but in our area there are a few houses for sale and they are all fairly up to date. In other words the competition is stiff in the local market so everything needs to be up to speed to achieve not only the viewings, but also the home report standards and of course a desirable sale price.

Now, bearing in mind that I don't want ripped off and after a recent EICR that was partly advised incorrectly, (As I was told on here). I would like to get some good advice from people who know what they are talking about!

In a previous post I discussed various electrical upgrade options and noted some comments with regard to the installation set up. One being the comment that Dave OCD mentioned...

"The odd thing that jumps out at me in the pictures is a relatively new 100a DP isolator which only has the live tail connected through it with the neutral being straight through a SP block. Why would anyone do that ? "

Since that Post I have contacted the DNO, Scottish Power, and they organised IQA to come and install a completely new main cut-out head, new isolator with both tails connected, re-route the upstairs house supply cable and move our meter to a more 'readable' higher position. This was done quick as the neighbours upstairs supply cable that is supplied from the head in our meter cupboard was not secured properly and in turn prompted the whole works. (When I asked I was told the Ze is 0.22 ohms)

The Scottish Power surveyor said the head was at least 50 years old and the bitumen filled type. He said that as soon as they spot these things they are now changed as a matter of course. He also said the electrical installation was probably around the same age.

This has prompted a re-think and at 50 years old we feel it is time to modernise the electrical installation.

The ground floor flat has 4 bedrooms each with 2 double sockets.
Lounge with 3 double sockets.
Hallway with 2 double sockets.
Kitchen with combined cooker/socket switch, 3 double sockets, integrated appliances with above counter switches to include; fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, oven and hob. Hot water immersion heater switch, outside light switch, outside socket switch, extractor fan and the power for the Gas system boiler which is in the kitchen corner, with isolator and timer.
Bathroom with electric shower, extractor fan and proposed shaver socket/electric toothbrush charge point.
Cloakroom with a double socket.
The lighting circuits for the respective rooms to include; 12 LED bulbs in the bathroom, 10 LED's in the kitchen, 4 LED's in the lounge, 2 LED's in the hallway and single LED's in all other rooms.
(Not that I am particularly fond of LED's but in a large house the saving is quite significant and they also achieve a higher rating on the energy report)

All the cabling, runs loosely lying across the ground of the shallow solemn, from the CU under the floors in the solemn space, through gaps in the walls between the joists underneath to the respective rooms and also through/underneath doorways in the solemn. They come up the walls behind lath and plaster.

We have 200 year old cornice and ceiling roses that must not be disturbed. The T+E lighting cables run in old 20 mm threaded conduit.

All the kitchen cables from the CU eventually come together in a bunch under the floor in a corner of the hall, they come up through the floor and run up inside a large,10" x 4" floor to ceiling box, just outside the kitchen in the corner of the hall. They go through the wall at the top and into an accessible 3ft deep false ceiling void in the kitchen, where they then dangle and spread apart loosely and then go down the walls respectively at various points two walls are plastered and two are lath and plaster. (There is a concrete floor nothing comes up in the kitchen)

Now, bearing in mind that I don't want ripped off and after a recent EICR that was partly advised incorrectly, (As I was told on here). I would like to get some good advice from someone who knows their stuff.

I would wish to do the donkey work myself, lift the floors and chase the walls and also all the eventual finishing work, plastering and the like. I have a good few friends in the trades and what I can't do, mates rates/plenty of beers will do the rest. I don't want to pay for stuff that can be done by myself!

I would also supply all materials inc electrical. I have friend in the wholesalers who will get me a great price and I will also be able to claim the VAT back on the materials.

Hopefully the electrician would do the cable runs and terminations and fit the new consumer unit and complete all the tests etc.

Questions...

1. Do you think it is time to renew?
2. Do you think an Electrician would be happy doing a job in this way?
3. I would supply a Schneider CU as I understand they are pretty good. In supplying a new CU,
Should it contain all RCBO's or include AFFD's and SPD's?
4. How many circuits would be required, what should I buy?
5. What would be the average time of a rewire etc of this type?
6. What would be an average cost I could expect to pay?
7. What would the current regs dictate as far as this 200 year old building is concerned with regard to lath and plaster, solemn cables etc?

I am sure there are a lot more questions that need asking but I don't know what to ask any prospective Electrician with regard to a quote and would like to be forewarned as this is forearmed, as the saying goes...

All good advice welcome...

Thanks,
Iain
 
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you need to get an electrician on board now.firstly to ascertain how he/she can work with you on:
1. you doing some of the work.
2. you supplying materials.
3. designing installation as to what you want and to design accordingly.
 
you need to get an electrician on board now.firstly to ascertain how he/she can work with you on:
1. you doing some of the work.
2. you supplying materials.
3. designing installation as to what you want and to design accordingly.

Hi telectrix, thanks for the reply.

Do I detect that you would not be comfortable with this type of arrangement?
And if not why?

Thanks...
 
In order for you to save money by getting the gear and you doing the donkey work has they say , a good spark will charge you about 300.00 per day thats with out the testing .
Or any cock ups that you will create .
 
Also be aware that any equipment that you supply is your responsibility. If it breaks within the warranty period then its down to you to have it replaced, not the electrician.
Why don't you just specify what CU or other equipment makes you want and get the electrician to get them?
 
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In order for you to save money by getting the gear and you doing the donkey work has they say , a good spark will charge you about 300.00 per day thats with out the testing .
Or any cock ups that you will create .

Bloody cheek! I would not trust you anyway with an attitude like that!!!

I think I am probably asking these questions in the wrong place as no doubt you would wan't to get paid for doing all the work including lifting the carpets/floors, moving furniture, the plastering and the painting and decorating and every other job at huge hourly rates that I would not even contemplating paying.

If it was your house you would not pay someone to do these jobs that you would do yourself!

Away and answer some other post thanks...
 
Hi telectrix, thanks for the reply.

Do I detect that you would not be comfortable with this type of arrangement?
And if not why?

Thanks...
i'd be OK witth it. some would not. the main problem would be you getting the wrong gear and the spark having to spend extra time sorting it out. another thing is that if you supplied equipment that failed within warranty. it would be up to you to replace, not the spark. he'd be justified in charging you for time spent replacing anything.
 
Also be aware that any equipment that you supply is your responsibility. If it breaks within the warranty period then its down to you to have it replaced, not the electrician.
Why don't you just specify what CU or other equipment makes you want and get the electrician to get them?

Yep that's fine...

Looks like the negatives are all coming on this one?

Aye it's all about the cash...
 
Bloody cheek! I would not trust you anyway with an attitude like that!!!

I think I am probably asking these questions in the wrong place as no doubt you would wan't to get paid for doing all the work including lifting the carpets/floors, moving furniture, the plastering and the painting and decorating and every other job at huge hourly rates that I would not even contemplating paying.

If it was your house you would not pay someone to do these jobs that you would do yourself!

Away and answer some other post thanks...
where do youget these "huge hourly rates"? ÂŁ30/hour is not huge. it's tiny compared to a solicitor @ ÂŁ200/hour. British Gas charge ÂŁ80/hour + VAT just for unblocking a sink.
 
i'd be OK witth it. some would not. the main problem would be you getting the wrong gear and the spark having to spend extra time sorting it out. another thing is that if you supplied equipment that failed within warranty. it would be up to you to replace, not the spark. he'd be justified in charging you for time spent replacing anything.

Yes that's fine...
 
where do youget these "huge hourly rates"? ÂŁ30/hour is not huge. it's tiny compared to a solicitor @ ÂŁ200/hour. British Gas charge ÂŁ80/hour + VAT just for unblocking a sink.

I agree that's a good rate defo...

But, lets say couple of days faffing 20 hours maybe at ÂŁ30 = ÂŁ600 for carpets and floors???
[automerge]1581424576[/automerge]
I wouldn't be comfortable with that way of working, and would charge you a substantially higher labour rate to penalise you for it.

Ha ha ha good one!!!
 
Bloody cheek! I would not trust you anyway with an attitude like that!!!
i am giving you a true what i will cost .
i have had peaple who tried to screw me boots to the floor .so i would not work for peaple like that . so i will be not working for you .,im out .
 
So nobody would have any idea what would be required and say yes Iain get this and that, AFFD's whatever and be happy to do the job? I already said we would be selling up so the future stuff would be for the new owner...
 
most sparks will mark up materials by 15% -20% to cover cost of ordering, fetching, and possible free call backs to replace anything failed under warranty. you'd not go into Tesco and expect to pay what they paid for your shopping.
 
i am giving you a true what i will cost .
i have had peaple who tried to screw me boots to the floor .so i would not work for peaple like that . so i will be not working for you .,im out .

Of course you are...
[automerge]1581425271[/automerge]
most sparks will mark up materials by 15% -20% to cover cost of ordering, fetching, and possible free call backs to replace anything failed under warranty. you'd not go into Tesco and expect to pay what they paid for your shopping.

I know all that I have been in business for 35 years... Markup oh markup! why do I have to pay an involuntary tax? Materials are dear enough, why can't you be goodly and be happy to get paid for your work. It's like the lottery, a poor peoples voluntary tax. I don't do the lottery and mark ups either...
 
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Hi, we need some advice on our scenario with regards to our rewire plan.

I will get this out of the way first... We are planning to put the house up for sale. I know people will say let the new buyer do the stuff but in our area there are a few houses for sale and they are all fairly up to date. In other words the competition is stiff in the local market so everything needs to be up to speed to achieve not only the viewings, but also the home report standards and of course a desirable sale price.

Now, bearing in mind that I don't want ripped off and after a recent EICR that was partly advised incorrectly, (As I was told on here). I would like to get some good advice from people who know what they are talking about!

In a previous post I discussed various electrical upgrade options and noted some comments with regard to the installation set up. One being the comment that Dave OCD mentioned...

"The odd thing that jumps out at me in the pictures is a relatively new 100a DP isolator which only has the live tail connected through it with the neutral being straight through a SP block. Why would anyone do that ? "

Since that Post I have contacted the DNO, Scottish Power, and they organised IQA to come and install a completely new main cut-out head, new isolator with both tails connected, re-route the upstairs house supply cable and move our meter to a more 'readable' higher position. This was done quick as the neighbours upstairs supply cable that is supplied from the head in our meter cupboard was not secured properly and in turn prompted the whole works. (When I asked I was told the Ze is 0.22 ohms)

The Scottish Power surveyor said the head was at least 50 years old and the bitumen filled type. He said that as soon as they spot these things they are now changed as a matter of course. He also said the electrical installation was probably around the same age.

This has prompted a re-think and at 50 years old we feel it is time to modernise the electrical installation.

The ground floor flat has 4 bedrooms each with 2 double sockets.
Lounge with 3 double sockets.
Hallway with 2 double sockets.
Kitchen with combined cooker/socket switch, 3 double sockets, integrated appliances with above counter switches to include; fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, oven and hob. Hot water immersion heater switch, outside light switch, outside socket switch, extractor fan and the power for the Gas system boiler which is in the kitchen corner, with isolator and timer.
Bathroom with electric shower, extractor fan and proposed shaver socket/electric toothbrush charge point.
Cloakroom with a double socket.
The lighting circuits for the respective rooms to include; 12 LED bulbs in the bathroom, 10 LED's in the kitchen, 4 LED's in the lounge, 2 LED's in the hallway and single LED's in all other rooms.
(Not that I am particularly fond of LED's but in a large house the saving is quite significant and they also achieve a higher rating on the energy report)

All the cabling, runs loosely lying across the ground of the shallow solemn, from the CU under the floors in the solemn space, through gaps in the walls between the joists underneath to the respective rooms and also through/underneath doorways in the solemn. They come up the walls behind lath and plaster.

We have 200 year old cornice and ceiling roses that must not be disturbed. The T+E lighting cables run in old 20 mm threaded conduit.

All the kitchen cables from the CU eventually come together in a bunch under the floor in a corner of the hall, they come up through the floor and run up inside a large,10" x 4" floor to ceiling box, just outside the kitchen in the corner of the hall. They go through the wall at the top and into an accessible 3ft deep false ceiling void in the kitchen, where they then dangle and spread apart loosely and then go down the walls respectively at various points two walls are plastered and two are lath and plaster. (There is a concrete floor nothing comes up in the kitchen)

Now, bearing in mind that I don't want ripped off and after a recent EICR that was partly advised incorrectly, (As I was told on here). I would like to get some good advice from someone who knows their stuff.

I would wish to do the donkey work myself, lift the floors and chase the walls and also all the eventual finishing work, plastering and the like. I have a good few friends in the trades and what I can't do, mates rates/plenty of beers will do the rest. I don't want to pay for stuff that can be done by myself!

I would also supply all materials inc electrical. I have friend in the wholesalers who will get me a great price and I will also be able to claim the VAT back on the materials.

Hopefully the electrician would do the cable runs and terminations and fit the new consumer unit and complete all the tests etc.

Questions...

1. Do you think it is time to renew?
2. Do you think an Electrician would be happy doing a job in this way?
3. I would supply a Schneider CU as I understand they are pretty good. In supplying a new CU,
Should it contain all RCBO's or include AFFD's and SPD's?
4. How many circuits would be required, what should I buy?
5. What would be the average time of a rewire etc of this type?
6. What would be an average cost I could expect to pay?
7. What would the current regs dictate as far as this 200 year old building is concerned with regard to lath and plaster, solemn cables etc?

I am sure there are a lot more questions that need asking but I don't know what to ask any prospective Electrician with regard to a quote and would like to be forewarned as this is forearmed, as the saying goes...

All good advice welcome...

Thanks,
Iain
Why not make arrangements with your Wholesaler Friend. to give the Electrician the chance to the same discounts, oh forgot the Sparky will need to charge for his time, and travel when ordering and collecting, which wouldn't work for your needs.
 
Why not make arrangements with your Wholesaler Friend. to give the Electrician the chance to the same discounts, oh forgot the Sparky will need to charge for his time, and travel when ordering and collecting, which wouldn't work for your needs.

Obviously I can't speak for the wholesaler, but I know this much, he is very good with the regular decent respected Electricians that go to him for stuff... I probably wouldn't get any more discount than they would. But at least I would not pay markup!!! I don't charge markup on anything I get for people. I am very happy to simply get paid for my work. You see, I am not a ripoff person like that but I suppose there are plenty who are! I will pay anyone's time and expenses with no problem at all as I would expect the same for myself and for their good work. That's if it was good and not shoddy or lazy can't go the extra mile type of work! All the materials would be here waiting boxed and new with everything that they said that they would need to do the job efficiently and properly. But if you mean paying for the sparky to go to the burger van for his lunch on the way... Ha!
 
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work out the cost of running a van at 45p/mile, spending 1 hour in the wholesalers being served, travel time there and back. not to mention the other overheads that come out of your time when you are fetching stuff and not getting any income from it.
 
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