Ideas please to extend a restricted socket

[Big Man]

1. So a clever contractor has blocked half a double socket with their custom built fixed bookcase. There is not quite enough space when a plug is in the socket down the side of the unit to give you an idea of dimensions.
2. Customer wants to be able to use both sockets so how best to rectify the situation?
3. I was thinking of blanking plate over existing socket placement and fix a surface mount box inside cupboard.
4. Question is how best to run cables out of existing back box through blanking plate. Drill hole and use blanking grommet? Seems potentially unsightly and rubbish.
5. Any ideas gratefully received.

 

[littlespark]

First question is how do you remove the socket if the bookcase is in front of it?

Send a photo. We all like a good laugh

 

[Big Man]

Thank you for replying littlespark,

Sorry couldn't work out how to do the picture thing on my phone .
Right here we go.

Brilliant planning isn't it?

So a couple of thoughts... as you can make out there is a bit of a gap so possibly a right-angled screwdriver or if need be buzz a hole through the cabinet at the right point to poke a screwdriver through if the other fails.

 

[telectrix]

cut the cabinet to expose all of the socket. you wont see the cut with the door closed. then either leave as is, or extend wall cut-out to right and refit socket.bad planning. socket should have been moved first. bloody wood butchers/kitchen fit monkeys.

 

[Pete999]

cut the cabinet to expose all of the socket. you wont see the cut with the door closed. then either leave as is, or extend wall cut-out to right and refit socket.bad planning. socket should have been moved first. bloody wood butchers/kitchen fit monkeys.

Totally agree with Tel, what a Plank that Chippy is.

 

[Big Man]

I suggested that to client but they don't like a massive cut in their new cabinet hence the rather precious attempts I was describing.
They would also prefer the socket mounted in the cabinet so they can hide the wires to the tv and dvd etc.

 

[Pete999]

I would say without butchering the cabinet, it will be almost impossible to remove that socket, impossible to remove for testing in the future, like I said earlier the Plank that fitted the cabinet without dealing with the socket whilst there was a chance to do so is a Moron, but that is typical of many of today's jobbing guys, bu--er it I'll fit it anyway and let the customer deal with it, after I have been paid.

 

[Big Man]

Absolutely agree with most of the above but in an attempt to keep the customer. What are your thoughts on extending cables in the existing backbox , buzzing a hole through left side of a blanking plate fit closed grommet as its hidden beyond the bookcase then run cables down the side of bookcase, then buzz a hole in through bookcase where they want the socket and fit surface mount?
We can then test to our hearts content!

Seems a palaver I know but I can also understand why they don't want their new bookcase hacked to death too.

 

[telectrix]

time to get the multitool out of hibernation. looks like a studded wall, so fishing cable should be a doddle.

 

[davesparks]

Why isn’t the person who fitted the bookcase coming back to remove the side so that the socket can be removed?

 

[Pete999]

Why isn’t the person who fitted the bookcase coming back to remove the side so that the socket can be removed?

Cuz he's a Plank Dave, been paid. job done. no problem of mine is it?

 

[Big Man]

Clients have just purchased the house and moved in so I would suspect have no idea who I did the crapenter work!
One of those ‘quick’ jobs that suddenly turns into a lot more for the poor electrician

Multi tool - coincidentally found it again just last night!

Well since nobody has come up with any other clever ideas than the standard ones I’m feeling a little better. It’s nice to hear everybody else calling him a plank too.

Thanks for all your thoughts and support. To work!!

 

[littlespark]

So your customer wasn't the one that asked for the bookcase to be built over a socket?

You will never get the socket off the backbox without some damage, let alone accessing the cables.

My suggestion would be to jigsaw a square out of the side to expose the whole socket. Do what you need to do, then replace it with a little bit of framing behind.
Won't be seen with the door shut, and you can be creative with a bit of decorators caulk over the cuts.

See if there's a book on there about joinery and cabinetmaking

 

[Adam W]

If you can fish the cable back out inside the cabinet, cut a hole in the cabinet to accommodate a fast fix box or better still a galv box, take the existing socket out and patch over it, flush mount the new socket in the cabinet.

 

[Adam W]

You don't necessarily need to get the socket out in one piece, just make sure you have the circuit isolated before you go at it with the bashing screwdriver.

 

[telectrix]

lend you this if you want.

 

[tlangdon12]

You are going to have to cut a hole in the side of the cabinet to get the cables through, why not cut this so that it is directly over the screw that is inaccessible. It looks like you would be able to reach through such a hole, even with a normal length driver to get the screw out. The hole will be covered by the surface mount socket, or will be the whole you cut for a backbox if you install a back box into the side of the cabinet. I don't like the idea of cutting any more out of the cabinet than necessary, but you can give the customer the choice of surface or recessed.

Once you have the old socket off, I would go with your idea of extending the cables in the existing backbox, feed them out through a blanking plate with a 20mm hole and a grommet, and through the hole you made in the cabinet.

You will need the hole in the cabinet to be big enough (50-60mm dia?) so you can get a screw back into the blanking plate working through the hole - think keyhole surgery! Needle nose pliers, a screwdriver with an attachment to hold the screw firmly onto the blade, or a dab of superglue on the end of the screwdriver; all might work.

For the best possible job, the gap between the cabinet really needs covering somehow. If time were no object, I'd get a bit of 18mm ply, primed and painted to match the cabinet, and attach it to the side of the cabinet from inside. Just make the fixings obvious and leave a note for the next poor spark on how to access the original back box.

 

[Big Man]

Awsome ideas peeps! Thanks so much for the help. It has been most enlightening. I think the customer will probably choose tlangdon12’s idea with the replacement trim. Should be a doddle
Love the idea of the dab of glue, I’ve not thought of that before.

Thank you all.

 

[ZippyMo]

Is that a stud wall? If it is, you could go into the room adjacent to it and try to cut it out through the plasterboard and shift it along. But, then you will be left with a gaping hole in the adjacent room which you may just add a spur socket.

Trainee sparky

Zippy.